for anyone that has crankcase pressure issues
#827
Evolved Member
iTrader: (19)
Thanks, I saw that.
I found this, pretty interesting.
http://www.gzmotorsports.com/4G63T-vacuum-pump-kit.html
#829
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (50)
In my quest to minimize water and unburnt fuel in the motor oil without using the stock PCV system + catch cans, I put further effort into an exhaust evac solution. I built my own exhaust evac nozzle using some 3/8" copper tubing, and now I can pull a bit of fresh air into the crankcase during idle and light cruise, and it pulls a pretty good amount of fresh air into the crankcase during decel. It pulls no fresh air under boost though, and instead, it closes up just like the stock PCV system. Its still not nearly as effective as the stock PCV system for pulling in fresh air, but I have decided that its better than just venting the valve cover to atmosphere. I have figured out how to make an even more effective nozzle, but its not something I can make in my garage. I'll have to head over the English Racing to have them build it to my specs.
To deal with crankcase pressure under WOT, I took a queue from Steven's setup, and put a Boomba check valve (they are really nice) in a hose that Tees off the evac hose as shown below. With this setup, my crankcase pressure went from 2.2 psi under WOT peak rpm with the stock PCV system down to 0.75 psi with this setup. I figure that once I tap the driver side of the valve cover for -6 or -8 AN, crankcase pressure should drop to less than 0.5 psi which is plenty low enough for me.
To deal with crankcase pressure under WOT, I took a queue from Steven's setup, and put a Boomba check valve (they are really nice) in a hose that Tees off the evac hose as shown below. With this setup, my crankcase pressure went from 2.2 psi under WOT peak rpm with the stock PCV system down to 0.75 psi with this setup. I figure that once I tap the driver side of the valve cover for -6 or -8 AN, crankcase pressure should drop to less than 0.5 psi which is plenty low enough for me.
Last edited by mrfred; Nov 2, 2013 at 07:11 PM.
#830
Evolved Member
iTrader: (19)
Great thread. When you get this stuff sorted out mrfred, I think I might be interested in doing something similar so hopefully it works out. Short of a dry sump system this looks promising. One story I remember from an engine builder friend I knew that worked at Rousch Racing in North Carolina, He said that their dry sump system was pulling so much vacuum in in the sump that while the engine was on the dyno they noticed they forgot to install the rear main seal and it wasn't even leaking a drop. It has been a while, but I want to say the typical Nascar dry sumps, at least back then, were pulling around 18inHg. in the pan.
Even what you have now, going from over 2 psi to only .75 psi is awesome imo.
Even what you have now, going from over 2 psi to only .75 psi is awesome imo.
#831
Evolved Member
iTrader: (37)
Guess my 4 port STM VTA catch can isn't pulling enough vacuum when idling.....
What about just adding another line from my valve cover to the air intake to help with vacuum at idle? Since it is VTA I am not sure if it will help at all. Maybe using the balance shaft inspection fitting to the air intake to create some suction from the block? Again, it is VTA so I don't know if any of this suction would make a difference.
FP suggested a line from the valve cover to air intake and using a PCV setup.
Mr Fred- I read what you said on the last page about possibly using the balance shaft inspection fitting as the vacuum source from the air intake. If I did this wouldn't it pull air through the other VTA ports? Right now I have the 4 port STM VTA with 4-6AN lines coming from vented dipstick tube, balance shaft inspection fitting and 2 from the valve cover.
What about just adding another line from my valve cover to the air intake to help with vacuum at idle? Since it is VTA I am not sure if it will help at all. Maybe using the balance shaft inspection fitting to the air intake to create some suction from the block? Again, it is VTA so I don't know if any of this suction would make a difference.
FP suggested a line from the valve cover to air intake and using a PCV setup.
Mr Fred- I read what you said on the last page about possibly using the balance shaft inspection fitting as the vacuum source from the air intake. If I did this wouldn't it pull air through the other VTA ports? Right now I have the 4 port STM VTA with 4-6AN lines coming from vented dipstick tube, balance shaft inspection fitting and 2 from the valve cover.
Last edited by michaelrc51; Dec 2, 2013 at 04:00 PM.
#832
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (50)
Guess my 4 port STM VTA catch can isn't pulling enough vacuum when idling.....
What about just adding another line from my valve cover to the air intake to help with vacuum at idle? Since it is VTA I am not sure if it will help at all. Maybe using the balance shaft inspection fitting to the air intake to create some suction from the block? Again, it is VTA so I don't know if any of this suction would make a difference.
FP suggested a line from the valve cover to air intake and using a PCV setup.
Mr Fred- I read what you said on the last page about possibly using the balance shaft inspection fitting as the vacuum source from the air intake. If I did this wouldn't it pull air through the other VTA ports? Right now I have the 4 port STM VTA with 4-6AN lines coming from vented dipstick tube, balance shaft inspection fitting and 2 from the valve cover.
What about just adding another line from my valve cover to the air intake to help with vacuum at idle? Since it is VTA I am not sure if it will help at all. Maybe using the balance shaft inspection fitting to the air intake to create some suction from the block? Again, it is VTA so I don't know if any of this suction would make a difference.
FP suggested a line from the valve cover to air intake and using a PCV setup.
Mr Fred- I read what you said on the last page about possibly using the balance shaft inspection fitting as the vacuum source from the air intake. If I did this wouldn't it pull air through the other VTA ports? Right now I have the 4 port STM VTA with 4-6AN lines coming from vented dipstick tube, balance shaft inspection fitting and 2 from the valve cover.
#833
Evolved Member
iTrader: (37)
Yes, that is oil coming from the compressor cover of my FP green and that is at idle. FP told me that as little as 2psi can cause the oil to get past the gas seals and come out of the compressor cover and at idle it needs some "suction" to help at idle.
Yeah, I don't know why I said that....there is no vacuum it is VTA. That is my question, since it is VTA will adding a line from my air intake to the valve cover or even the balance shaft inspection hole create enough movement of air to help alleviate the oil getting past the gas seals and coming out of the compressor cover.
Current setup is just the 4,-6AN lines to the VTA catch can, no other lines or breathers.
I read what you had posted in previous pages about using the balance shaft inspection hole to pull vacuum from. What if is I was to use this as a place to route to the intake pipe and create the vacuum instead of just VTA like it is now?
#834
Evolving Member
iTrader: (6)
A properly vented motor (which you seem to have) should not push oil past the seals, especially at idle on a fresh turbo with the proper ID return line. Adding a vacuum source is a band-aid IMO for your turbo that has leaky seals. Not to mention, adding a vacuum line to a VTA setup will do nothing for you, you must convert to a sealed setup in order to take advantage of any gains to be had from a vacuum sourced setup...
#835
Evolved Member
iTrader: (37)
A properly vented motor (which you seem to have) should not push oil past the seals, especially at idle on a fresh turbo with the proper ID return line. Adding a vacuum source is a band-aid IMO for your turbo that has leaky seals. Not to mention, adding a vacuum line to a VTA setup will do nothing for you, you must convert to a sealed setup in order to take advantage of any gains to be had from a vacuum sourced setup...
This is what I thought as well. FP assured me that even just 2psi could make this happen and it happens at idle. I spoke at length with FP and they are pretty sure it is due to not having a line from the air intake pipe to the valve cover and also the PCV being eliminated. The return is the OEM pipe so unless there is a blockage there....but I just changed the oil and FP filter as well as cleaned all of the RTV off of the gasket.
I've driven it 500 miles and this is as bad as it gets even under boost, only 22psi right now.....
This is a DBB FP Green that is not very old. Since I am the way I am it is going to FP just to be sure everything is in check, just rebuild it to be safe. I have spent so much money rebuilding the car in the last year I just want to do whatever I can to make sure it is OK.
That is my question. I know it is VTA and adding some vacuum seems like it might be pointless but would it help? I have to think that it would still create some vacuum and alleviate some of the pressure, no?
Last edited by michaelrc51; Dec 2, 2013 at 08:32 PM.
#836
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (50)
If you have four -6 AN lines off the motor that VTA, its highly unlikely that the motor is generating even 0.1 psi at idle. One -6 AN line (with an appropriately sized fitting on the valve cover) is enough to keep the crankcase pressure below <0.1 psi at idle even with a built motor, so if your motor is generating even 0.5 psi with four lines, there is something seriously wrong with it. Have you checked to make sure that all four lines flow freely?
#837
Evolving Member
iTrader: (6)
If you have four -6 AN lines off the motor that VTA, its highly unlikely that the motor is generating even 0.1 psi at idle. One -6 AN line (with an appropriately sized fitting on the valve cover) is enough to keep the crankcase pressure below <0.1 psi at idle even with a built motor, so if your motor is generating even 0.5 psi with four lines, there is something seriously wrong with it. Have you checked to make sure that all four lines flow freely?
#838
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
Bump for great thread. Trying to keep things simple and clean this is what I have in mind, it might be a pretty standard setup but hopefully you will approve.
-10 fairclough fitting off rear valve cover port, -6 stm fitting off side valve cover port and -6 stm balance shaft inspection hole making a total of 3 lines running to a STM vta can.
Will that alleviate enough pressure? I can even add in one of those oil caps with a fitting provision making it a total of 4 lines if need be
-10 fairclough fitting off rear valve cover port, -6 stm fitting off side valve cover port and -6 stm balance shaft inspection hole making a total of 3 lines running to a STM vta can.
Will that alleviate enough pressure? I can even add in one of those oil caps with a fitting provision making it a total of 4 lines if need be
#839
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (31)
I never would have expected this thread to grow this large when I made it.
If anyone wants to buy my old dual catch can setup send me an email to tscompusa@gmail.com
I am not using a catch can system anymore. I am just venting the side valve cover.
If anyone wants to buy my old dual catch can setup send me an email to tscompusa@gmail.com
I am not using a catch can system anymore. I am just venting the side valve cover.
#840
Evolved Member
iTrader: (18)
I never would have expected this thread to grow this large when I made it.
If anyone wants to buy my old dual catch can setup send me an email to tscompusa@gmail.com
I am not using a catch can system anymore. I am just venting the side valve cover.
If anyone wants to buy my old dual catch can setup send me an email to tscompusa@gmail.com
I am not using a catch can system anymore. I am just venting the side valve cover.
or vta on that one also?