for anyone that has crankcase pressure issues
I never would have expected this thread to grow this large when I made it.
If anyone wants to buy my old dual catch can setup send me an email to tscompusa@gmail.com
I am not using a catch can system anymore. I am just venting the side valve cover.
If anyone wants to buy my old dual catch can setup send me an email to tscompusa@gmail.com
I am not using a catch can system anymore. I am just venting the side valve cover.
that sounds messy? care to explain
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As Mychailo said, nothing comes out of the side
I never had anything come out of the side before, that's why I routed it into the intake pipe. The valve covers very well baffled in the stock opening on the side.
For now, I'm just using the pcv into the intake manifold like stock.
We have been doing that on Steve's car and his intake manifold remains dry
after 10K+ miles. If I see any oil in my intake manifold come summer time, I will
make adjustments accordingly.
I never had anything come out of the side before, that's why I routed it into the intake pipe. The valve covers very well baffled in the stock opening on the side.For now, I'm just using the pcv into the intake manifold like stock.
We have been doing that on Steve's car and his intake manifold remains dry
after 10K+ miles. If I see any oil in my intake manifold come summer time, I will
make adjustments accordingly.
please guys- if running catch cans etc- just be sure to pressure test if you are MAF based and make sure you have no leaks in the system- we find them all of the time-
we have had to use Kiggly HLA's on almost ALL cars we've been doing for heavy duty road racing (not just our builds, but all others)- that are revving to high rpm for high duration because due to engine G loads and sustained high rpm flow/pressure the oil cant return to the pan fast enough from the head- and if you are running those breathers returned to the intake you can start sucking the oil out of the valve cover -
cb
we have had to use Kiggly HLA's on almost ALL cars we've been doing for heavy duty road racing (not just our builds, but all others)- that are revving to high rpm for high duration because due to engine G loads and sustained high rpm flow/pressure the oil cant return to the pan fast enough from the head- and if you are running those breathers returned to the intake you can start sucking the oil out of the valve cover -
cb
My side port is drilled out 5/8" (-10). There was a catch can in between the valve cover and intake pipe and a catch can in between the intake manifold and valve cover.
I never had not even a drop of oil enter the catch can in between the side valve cover and intake pipe. Every time i went to drain that can it was 100% dry.
The intake manifold side had oil. Maybe after 150 pulls i would get out about a teaspoon of oil if that.
When running a catch can tapped into the valve cover, allot of people make the mistake of not using an inline check valve, and end up having the intake manifold pressurize the catch can causing a mess.
I also would never run a vented catch can with a MAF system. Keep it sealed.
I agree a Kiggly HLA does a fine job at keeping oil in the pan, and a lot of people do not have their catch can systems setup right.
I never really tried any high G turns or anything aggressive as far as turning goes, so i cant really comment about that.
What I will say though is, after 10K miles i never had a droplet of oil enter the intake pipe before or ever had anything come out of the side of the 5/8" drilled hole in the valve cover.
I do mostly all straight line acceleration though.
I know a lot of people who have issues pushing oil out of the side of their valve cover that drilled a 2nd hole on the driver side where there wasn't sufficient baffling, and that is a mistake a lot of people make.
I never had not even a drop of oil enter the catch can in between the side valve cover and intake pipe. Every time i went to drain that can it was 100% dry.
The intake manifold side had oil. Maybe after 150 pulls i would get out about a teaspoon of oil if that.
When running a catch can tapped into the valve cover, allot of people make the mistake of not using an inline check valve, and end up having the intake manifold pressurize the catch can causing a mess.
I also would never run a vented catch can with a MAF system. Keep it sealed.
I agree a Kiggly HLA does a fine job at keeping oil in the pan, and a lot of people do not have their catch can systems setup right.
I never really tried any high G turns or anything aggressive as far as turning goes, so i cant really comment about that.
What I will say though is, after 10K miles i never had a droplet of oil enter the intake pipe before or ever had anything come out of the side of the 5/8" drilled hole in the valve cover.
I do mostly all straight line acceleration though.
I know a lot of people who have issues pushing oil out of the side of their valve cover that drilled a 2nd hole on the driver side where there wasn't sufficient baffling, and that is a mistake a lot of people make.
Just read through all 50 some pages, my eyes hurt but not as much as my head.
Tom, that bag full of liquid you pulled from between the pcv valve and IM was not enough to convince you to keep the catch cans? What are your next plans?
I have a fresh 0 mile Buschur built 2.3L on E85 that I'm looking to set up a good system for. So far, previously I had never had any pressure/blow by issues but that doesn't really matter anymore since this is a new block. Everything is plumbed like factory right now, VC to intake pipe, pcv to intake manifold. I'm unsure of running it this way as I don't want to pollute my newly ported IM and rebuilt turbo. Any new suggestions?
Tom, that bag full of liquid you pulled from between the pcv valve and IM was not enough to convince you to keep the catch cans? What are your next plans?
I have a fresh 0 mile Buschur built 2.3L on E85 that I'm looking to set up a good system for. So far, previously I had never had any pressure/blow by issues but that doesn't really matter anymore since this is a new block. Everything is plumbed like factory right now, VC to intake pipe, pcv to intake manifold. I'm unsure of running it this way as I don't want to pollute my newly ported IM and rebuilt turbo. Any new suggestions?
EvoM Guru
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
...
I have a fresh 0 mile Buschur built 2.3L on E85 that I'm looking to set up a good system for. So far, previously I had never had any pressure/blow by issues but that doesn't really matter anymore since this is a new block. Everything is plumbed like factory right now, VC to intake pipe, pcv to intake manifold. I'm unsure of running it this way as I don't want to pollute my newly ported IM and rebuilt turbo. Any new suggestions?
I have a fresh 0 mile Buschur built 2.3L on E85 that I'm looking to set up a good system for. So far, previously I had never had any pressure/blow by issues but that doesn't really matter anymore since this is a new block. Everything is plumbed like factory right now, VC to intake pipe, pcv to intake manifold. I'm unsure of running it this way as I don't want to pollute my newly ported IM and rebuilt turbo. Any new suggestions?
Last edited by mrfred; Jan 28, 2014 at 06:29 AM.
it would help if everyone could post what they are doing with their car. a drag car, road race car, and a street car will all be setup a bit differently.
on my 06 track evo, I'm running the stock rear check valve + 2 enlarged ports on the side into a single vented catch can. Some tracks I get more oil than others and its 95% all from the right rear port on my valve cover (far less baffle). I empty it every 3-4 sessions and re-top off my oil. its been working great and my stock block has lived for several thousand miles of abuse (track only car). The only additional oil mods are the Kiggly HLA and a Cosworth crank scraper (which do help btw, oil pressure logs to prove it).

on my 06 track evo, I'm running the stock rear check valve + 2 enlarged ports on the side into a single vented catch can. Some tracks I get more oil than others and its 95% all from the right rear port on my valve cover (far less baffle). I empty it every 3-4 sessions and re-top off my oil. its been working great and my stock block has lived for several thousand miles of abuse (track only car). The only additional oil mods are the Kiggly HLA and a Cosworth crank scraper (which do help btw, oil pressure logs to prove it).

you'll do both if left in that config with completely stock hoses and VC fittings. drilling the VC vent for -10 AN hose all the way to the intake pipe will fix the crankcase pressure. a catch can is needed for the pcv to IM section to reduce oil in the IM. an alternate option is to vta both outlets with at least one utilizing 1/2" hose and fittings.
EvoM Guru
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
if done carefully, the VC vent can be drilled and tapped without removing the baffle. English Racing does it routinely. otherwise, bite the bullet and R&R the baffle.
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (50)
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
...
on my 06 track evo, I'm running the stock rear check valve + 2 enlarged ports on the side into a single vented catch can. Some tracks I get more oil than others and its 95% all from the right rear port on my valve cover (far less baffle). I empty it every 3-4 sessions and re-top off my oil. its been working great and my stock block has lived for several thousand miles of abuse (track only car). The only additional oil mods are the Kiggly HLA and a Cosworth crank scraper (which do help btw, oil pressure logs to prove it).
on my 06 track evo, I'm running the stock rear check valve + 2 enlarged ports on the side into a single vented catch can. Some tracks I get more oil than others and its 95% all from the right rear port on my valve cover (far less baffle). I empty it every 3-4 sessions and re-top off my oil. its been working great and my stock block has lived for several thousand miles of abuse (track only car). The only additional oil mods are the Kiggly HLA and a Cosworth crank scraper (which do help btw, oil pressure logs to prove it).
catch can is only needed for the IM. a big opening is needed somewhere to vent the blowby on boost with a built motor that is going to have looser tolerances on pistons and rings. without a big vent, crankcase pressure will push oil into the turbine and compressor housings.
if done carefully, the VC vent can be drilled and tapped without removing the baffle. English Racing does it routinely. otherwise, bite the bullet and R&R the baffle.
if done carefully, the VC vent can be drilled and tapped without removing the baffle. English Racing does it routinely. otherwise, bite the bullet and R&R the baffle.
Exactly what Mrfred said.
Catchcan inbetween the intake mani and pcv (valve cover) to trap oil before it enters the intake manifold.
Then just drill the existing side port oil to 5/8 -10 or so to help relieve pressure. add a breather if you want. No oil comes out of the stock port on the side even when its enlarged. The evo valve cover baffling is superior.
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EVOizmm what you did was give yourself a problem drilling the other side of the valve cover like that. Yes it will relieve more pressure, but its going to push oil and fill the catch can now when normally that side would never see a drop of fluid.
Catchcan inbetween the intake mani and pcv (valve cover) to trap oil before it enters the intake manifold.
Then just drill the existing side port oil to 5/8 -10 or so to help relieve pressure. add a breather if you want. No oil comes out of the stock port on the side even when its enlarged. The evo valve cover baffling is superior.
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EVOizmm what you did was give yourself a problem drilling the other side of the valve cover like that. Yes it will relieve more pressure, but its going to push oil and fill the catch can now when normally that side would never see a drop of fluid.
Just read through all 50 some pages, my eyes hurt but not as much as my head.
Tom, that bag full of liquid you pulled from between the pcv valve and IM was not enough to convince you to keep the catch cans? What are your next plans?
I have a fresh 0 mile Buschur built 2.3L on E85 that I'm looking to set up a good system for. So far, previously I had never had any pressure/blow by issues but that doesn't really matter anymore since this is a new block. Everything is plumbed like factory right now, VC to intake pipe, pcv to intake manifold. I'm unsure of running it this way as I don't want to pollute my newly ported IM and rebuilt turbo. Any new suggestions?
Tom, that bag full of liquid you pulled from between the pcv valve and IM was not enough to convince you to keep the catch cans? What are your next plans?
I have a fresh 0 mile Buschur built 2.3L on E85 that I'm looking to set up a good system for. So far, previously I had never had any pressure/blow by issues but that doesn't really matter anymore since this is a new block. Everything is plumbed like factory right now, VC to intake pipe, pcv to intake manifold. I'm unsure of running it this way as I don't want to pollute my newly ported IM and rebuilt turbo. Any new suggestions?
I will probably add a single catch can inbetween the intake manifold and pcv to trap any oil that could possibly enter the intake manifold.
I'll just go with a smaller single saikou michi can.
For the intake mani to PCV side just add one of those one way check valves to assist the PCV and put the can inbetween the pcv and intake manifold and it is that simple.
The catch can will do its job by being a middle man to trap the fluids so they dont enter into the intake manifold.
Im sure all setups put some form of oil into the intake manifold when running huge aftermarket setups making a lot of power. I will most likely add that catch can very soon on my new setup just to avoid the chance for oil to enter the intake manifold and make it perform less efficient.
Once I do that i will update with the amount of oil i trap for others to see like i did in the past.


