Last year I ran with 4G64, 100mm crank and 156mm. I could run 8.854sec with 5 fuel cuts on 4th gear))). This year I am fighting with 2.2 in 4G64. My conclusion is: 2.4 is best choice till 9000+-200RPM. My sleeves were like new after 1 season in drag. I won all competition in Ukraine, had fastest CT9A in Europe with 2.4. Before I bought drag PPG I had finished on 9300-9400 with rally dog box and 4.07 final drive))). Engine was good. Now I can not tell you about my results with 2.2... There are not them... But I am hoping on long rods, R/S and spending a lote of money on very well performed engine))).
Than more long a rod that its heavier and your rotating mass will worst than you will have advantages from lightest pistons. The shortest pistons will be always noisiest and you will have big KNOCK VOLTAGE. So, if you need good engine you need 2.4, if you are interested in process of building, want to know what parts brake down after 9300 you need 2.0-2.1))

 

How did you bearings look, what were your clearances, and what type of bearings did you use? Are you using a special oil pan or a HLA regulator in the head?

 

thanks for the info David and Chris.

David, i emailed nick@buschurracing.com yesterday about a 2.4LR build. Hopefully that address is good, otherwise maybe PMs are better.

 

About how much does a LR 2.4 build usually run?

 

4800-5800

 

I've got about $3000 into mine (me doing all the work)
block
machine work
crank
rods
pistons
balance shaft elim.
cam gears (adj aem)
t belt
water pump
h.g.
bearings
arp main studs
arp head studs (L19's)

only other things i can think i need is a fluidampr pulley and some gaskets

 

With this option, in your opinion, would it be possible to fit alloy rods? If so it would be interesting, at the end the only custom parts should be the pistons, but also the 2.4 lr are to be custom made, or not?

 

I am working with Wiseco to get the pistons made as a stocking item. Since the same piston can cover 3 motors it only makes sense to have it on the shelf finally. You are correct though, it is currently still an order only piece.

 

What will the final specs be?

 

I have all the parts on the shelf for anything talked about in this thread other than 2.2 stuff. Our 2.4LR retails for $4695, that's no core required, water pump, head gasket and balance shaft eliminator kit. Depending on what you are doing for cores that price can come down quite a bit. Use that price as a ballpark and highest price.

 

Basically the same as the "drop in" 86.55mm piston with the compression height at 1.137. The last 3 sets have been lighter than the catalog listing of 356, only weighing 324. Not ultra light I know but it will get it done.

On a 2.4 156mm it would still be 9.7:1 with an .042 gasket (9.5:1 with .051)
On a 2.2 159mm it would be 9.14:1 with an .042 gasket (9.0:1 with .051)
On a 2.1 162mm it would be 8.6:1 with an .042 gasket (8.5:1 with .051)

 

How much can the 4g64 Block be found for and where are some good places? I can't really find any good places to source one out.

 

250-600 depending on if its a runner or already torn down. 00-03 (some 04) Galant, Outlander, and Eclipse will be the main sources.

 

So I'm trying to wrap up my 2.1l build, been researching on here a lot about the timing/cam degree'ing and decided I didn't want to mess with it. I took it to a local shop, who has been in business for well over 10 years and the owner I personally know. I gave them a set of solid lifters, and the cam specs for Comp 280s I got from here as none were listed on Comp's web page. They called Comp to double check what the cam specs were anyways and got 2 different specs, which were both different than what was on here. He went with something in between what he was given and said "I have plenty of room", I'm assuming piston/valve clearance. He also said when they pulled the pin on the tensioner that it didn't move. Well I picked the motor up today and the tensioner rod is against the arm/pully so that I can see why its not moving and you can stick the pin back in. I'm a little concerned with the tension on the top of the belt and also where the cams line up and what they were adjusted to. From most posts I've seen on here the cams need to be set either 3.5-3.75* retard/advanced. Mine aren't set near that. Either way I took some pictures they are below. The guy that did the work also said he turned the motor over 20 or so times and there were no issues. Belt is a Gates 4g63 belt.

 

thats not a bad price for a lr2.4 actually. how much would you charge for a std 2.4 david??