2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4 motors / strokers
Anyone have experience with JAM 2.3's? I'm either going to use them or go Buschur.
I'm thinking:
Stock Mistu Crank
Manley Turbo Tuff Rods
JE Pistons (9:1)
ACL race bearings
What kind of work has to be done to the head?
Considering around 500+whp with similar range of tq.
The Buschur HTA35R kit looks really nice too.
I'm thinking:
Stock Mistu Crank
Manley Turbo Tuff Rods
JE Pistons (9:1)
ACL race bearings
What kind of work has to be done to the head?
Considering around 500+whp with similar range of tq.
The Buschur HTA35R kit looks really nice too.
Anyone have experience with JAM 2.3's? I'm either going to use them or go Buschur.
I'm thinking:
Stock Mistu Crank
Manley Turbo Tuff Rods
JE Pistons (9:1)
ACL race bearings
What kind of work has to be done to the head?
Considering around 500+whp with similar range of tq.
The Buschur HTA35R kit looks really nice too.
I'm thinking:
Stock Mistu Crank
Manley Turbo Tuff Rods
JE Pistons (9:1)
ACL race bearings
What kind of work has to be done to the head?
Considering around 500+whp with similar range of tq.
The Buschur HTA35R kit looks really nice too.
Just read every post on this thread. Although I am much more informed I am still as confused as what motor to build as I was when I started. I have an Evo 9 which needs a refreshing but I want to keep my engine intact For long time future plans. My goal is to build a budget street machine with as much power as possible for best value more money. What art up do the pro,s suggest with a 2.4. I am not wanting to break HP records I just want the best stretable street racer far the best value for money.
It ain't gonna be cheap either way. The good thing about the 2.4 is the blocks are cheap and you can stretch out the parts cost as long as you want.
It's taken me almost a year to gather up all the parts for my 2.4.
I'm into it around $4k without the machine shop costs.
You will need to have your head decked along with block work.
In the end installed I'll be around 6k...
It's taken me almost a year to gather up all the parts for my 2.4.
I'm into it around $4k without the machine shop costs.
You will need to have your head decked along with block work.
In the end installed I'll be around 6k...
For what its worth, I have over 5000 miles on my build and DD my setup on E85. The numbers/setup in my signature is what I run every day. I still believe that a high compression (with E85) 2.4L (standard or long rod) with an FP black is the best street setup you can go with. I don't care what people say about lag, this setup is simply amazing. I hit 250 ftlbs at 3k rpm, 440 ftlbs at 3.5k rpm, and 570 ftlbs by 4k rpm. This is on a mustang dyno. I rarely shift past 3k when I'm driving around town. The high compression really livens the car up off boost and makes it a very enjoyable DD.
Dyno chart is available here.
-Acree
Dyno chart is available here.
-Acree
Evolved Member
iTrader: (33)
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 5,313
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From: Raleigh, Transplanted from Toronto, Canada
For what its worth, I have over 5000 miles on my build and DD my setup on E85. The numbers/setup in my signature is what I run every day. I still believe that a high compression (with E85) 2.4L (standard or long rod) with an FP black is the best street setup you can go with. I don't care what people say about lag, this setup is simply amazing. I hit 250 ftlbs at 3k rpm, 440 ftlbs at 3.5k rpm, and 570 ftlbs by 4k rpm. This is on a mustang dyno. I rarely shift past 3k when I'm driving around town. The high compression really livens the car up off boost and makes it a very enjoyable DD.
Dyno chart is available here.
-Acree
Dyno chart is available here.
-Acree
Couldn't have said it better myself. Insert T4 Twinscroll FF 6265 (soon to be 6266) in place of his FP Black and I feel the same way. LOL.
Maybe someone will ban you before a person actually clicks on your virus laced link.
Regarding the turbo change, I think the only thing I would want more than my black is a HTA3586R. That might be in the cards later in the year.
-Acree
Regarding the turbo change, I think the only thing I would want more than my black is a HTA3586R. That might be in the cards later in the year.
-Acree
Anyone have experience with JAM 2.3's? I'm either going to use them or go Buschur.
I'm thinking:
Stock Mistu Crank
Manley Turbo Tuff Rods
JE Pistons (9:1)
ACL race bearings
What kind of work has to be done to the head?
Considering around 500+whp with similar range of tq.
The Buschur HTA35R kit looks really nice too.
I'm thinking:
Stock Mistu Crank
Manley Turbo Tuff Rods
JE Pistons (9:1)
ACL race bearings
What kind of work has to be done to the head?
Considering around 500+whp with similar range of tq.
The Buschur HTA35R kit looks really nice too.
For the head I would either run a Buschur stage 3 or send it to Headgames.
Im also debating between all these choices. alot I read about the 2.4L or 2.3L is the increase in displacement is great for a dd. Thats fine and all but it doesnt help me much since I dont dd my evo so I honestly dont care about dd benefits. THe guys that do go 2.4 or 2.3 seem to be a mostly dd evo with some drag racing as well. Again not at all what my evo sees.
What setup would you recommend for an evo being used for frequent track days revving to 8000-8300 max? Im not looking to break hp records but I do need to be able to rev and make useable power at 8k rpm yet still be a setup that will be as reliable as it can be considering the abuse I am giving it. I figure that is the most rpm since Im still sticking with a stock frame turbo (ef2, hta bb green, bbk full). No sense for me to wind up these turbos much more than that anyhow.
Sorry the late reply
Cbrd are doing mine - 2.3 carrillo h beam pro rod, cp pistions, winberg 100 mm crank, cbrd head with gsc s2 cams , map rev 3 intake, toxic fan custom exhaust manifold , moroso oil pan etc etc with bbk-b-BB turbo , m& w Cdi cop , milspec throttlebody etc that's a complete drop in price injectors etc.
Using mainly for track, not drag not dd
Cbrd are doing mine - 2.3 carrillo h beam pro rod, cp pistions, winberg 100 mm crank, cbrd head with gsc s2 cams , map rev 3 intake, toxic fan custom exhaust manifold , moroso oil pan etc etc with bbk-b-BB turbo , m& w Cdi cop , milspec throttlebody etc that's a complete drop in price injectors etc.
Using mainly for track, not drag not dd
Hi, im planning to built a 2.4L Stroker with a Pajero block for better cost saving and i hope the experienced forums here can share some advise on my question :
1) Which model of pajero 4G64 block suite our Evo?
2) Can a front wheel drive pajero diesel be use?
3) Do i need to swap the 4G64 pajero pistons and rods for my 2.4L built or can the 4G64 oem pistons & rods withstand the power (450whp)?
4) Which model water pump & HG & size should i use? 4G64 or 4G63?
5) Can i use a 4G63 Timing belt, Oil pump belt, Fan belt & Bearings?
6) Say, if i cant use back the 4G64 pistons + bore size & rods, what length of rods & piston size & compression should i go for a 100mm stroke 4G64 oem crank?
7) What ACL bearing size should i use (Rod = / Main = / Thrust Washer = )?
8) How do i add in Oil Squitter?
9) Any other crucial stuffs that i need to add in for the 2.4L built?
Thank you...
1) Which model of pajero 4G64 block suite our Evo?
2) Can a front wheel drive pajero diesel be use?
3) Do i need to swap the 4G64 pajero pistons and rods for my 2.4L built or can the 4G64 oem pistons & rods withstand the power (450whp)?
4) Which model water pump & HG & size should i use? 4G64 or 4G63?
5) Can i use a 4G63 Timing belt, Oil pump belt, Fan belt & Bearings?
6) Say, if i cant use back the 4G64 pistons + bore size & rods, what length of rods & piston size & compression should i go for a 100mm stroke 4G64 oem crank?
7) What ACL bearing size should i use (Rod = / Main = / Thrust Washer = )?
8) How do i add in Oil Squitter?
9) Any other crucial stuffs that i need to add in for the 2.4L built?
Thank you...






