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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 05:20 PM
  #361  
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Originally Posted by akauf
great info! Has anyone ever done anything like a gsc (or other) 94mm crank in a 4g64 block and add that extra 6mm of room to the rod. Looks like they use a 156mm in the 63 block so that would give you a 162mm rod with a 94mm stroke. assume .020 over and you got a 2.285l with a 1.72 r/s.

k now i just need a few stacks to suddenly appear in my bank account.

Honestly though, is the extra rpm (money) gonna do any good for anything other than a straight line over a budget 2.4? Unless your in that little extra head room for a majority of the time, essentially on drag/highway pulls, your not utilizing the benefits of such a motor anyway. A standard 2.4 has its benefits all through the rpm range we drive the most on the street or road course after all.

Just thinking out loud a little
Yup.

Click on the link that says "New Build"
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 12:38 PM
  #362  
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Can I use Fluidampr EVO crank pulley #16770 with a 2.4 block, 2.4 water pump, Evo 9 belt, Evo 9 Mivec head combo ?
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 07:36 PM
  #363  
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Hi Guys,
im helping a friend to search for some info's on the 4G64 crankshaft and we wonder which model of the 4G64 cars suitable and plug and play onto our 4G63T?

Is there any different for the front and rear wheel 4G64 car model?

We found 1 used 4G64 crank but the shop said it is a front wheel model crankshaft...

Pls advise...

Thanks
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 08:57 PM
  #364  
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99 and up, but it has to be a 99 galant. Otherwise it will be 2000+ galant/eclipse/outlander.
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Old Apr 2, 2011 | 09:16 AM
  #365  
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yup.

I'm also planning on building an engine think i will go for the 2.3 with a Fp green.
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Old Apr 2, 2011 | 09:18 AM
  #366  
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I realized with de Evo you always want more power lol lol.
Evo's are addictive.
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 06:04 AM
  #367  
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Originally Posted by JohnBradley
99 and up, but it has to be a 99 galant. Otherwise it will be 2000+ galant/eclipse/outlander.
Thanks Aaron,
so i think i'll be only able to get an outlander halfcut as it is very very rare to get an galant and eclipse over here...
Can i use a Mit Delica lorry crank?

So, its mean it doesnt matter whether it is a front wheel or rear wheel 4G64 engine right?

To make myself right about the correction combination of parts while putting in a 4G64 crank is :
1) 150mm OEM rods length
2) 85.5 Stroker Pistons
3) Main & Rods bearings? Do i need over size bearings? Or can i use as the oem rods and main bearings size?

Other than that what should i need to modify in order to build this 4G64 crank into my 4G63T engine?

Can kindly list it :

Thanks

Last edited by jameswwt; Apr 3, 2011 at 06:09 AM.
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 06:27 AM
  #368  
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Originally Posted by jameswwt
Thanks Aaron,
So, its mean it doesnt matter whether it is a front wheel or rear wheel 4G64 engine right?


Thanks
It wouldnt matter. That is just Drivetrain and has nothing to do with the engine.
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 07:36 AM
  #369  
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Originally Posted by LGshow19
It wouldnt matter. That is just Drivetrain and has nothing to do with the engine.
Thanks Man...
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 05:37 PM
  #370  
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Originally Posted by BlackEvo_5
yup.

I'm also planning on building an engine think i will go for the 2.3 with a Fp green.
There is really no reason to ever go 2.3 now that the LR2.4 is rocking the evo community and are cheaper to build, make more power, and can rev higher.

Mikey
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 06:11 PM
  #371  
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The crank might be the same in the Delica if its also a 2.4 gas motor with the 7 bolt flywheel. I dont have JDM CAPS or ASA at the moment so I cant doublecheck. RWD/FWD/AWD doesnt matter with the Mitsu as was pointed out, just a late model 3 piece thrust washer (center main bearing).

86.5mm is stock bore. Its hard to get a block that you can use the drop in pistons the first time, I suggest going to 87mm unless you can have a few checked prior to purchase. Or order the pistons slightly oversized (like 86.6mm) and then have it honed to fit which is what I did on my current motor. The next one will just be an 87mm though.

Stock bearing sizes an stock rod length work okay, 156mm rods if you want a long rod also require the "stroker" piston with raised compression height. They will be on the shelf before too long according to Wiseco and I have heard Manley has them but I havent seen them myself.

Aaron

Originally Posted by jameswwt
Thanks Aaron,
so i think i'll be only able to get an outlander halfcut as it is very very rare to get an galant and eclipse over here...
Can i use a Mit Delica lorry crank?

So, its mean it doesnt matter whether it is a front wheel or rear wheel 4G64 engine right?

To make myself right about the correction combination of parts while putting in a 4G64 crank is :
1) 150mm OEM rods length
2) 85.5 Stroker Pistons
3) Main & Rods bearings? Do i need over size bearings? Or can i use as the oem rods and main bearings size?

Other than that what should i need to modify in order to build this 4G64 crank into my 4G63T engine?

Can kindly list it :

Thanks
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 08:20 PM
  #372  
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Originally Posted by BLKCarbonEVO
There is really no reason to ever go 2.3 now that the LR2.4 is rocking the evo community and are cheaper to build, make more power, and can rev higher.

Mikey
I Disagree as from my experience the 63 block seals MUCH BETTER than the 64 block.. In 4 years i have NEVER blown a gasket in a 63 all the way to 57psi and 1000+hp.. I cant say the same for the 64.. Again just my experience..

Mike
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 01:46 AM
  #373  
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smallest bore is the best that is very true.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:52 AM
  #374  
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2.4L Questions:

1. What cam recommendations do people have for the 2.4L?
Are they really more dependent on larger cams?

(I have cosworth M2 w/o springs etc. Anyone have experience with this cam on a 2.4? If I'm revving beyond 7,800, i guess I'll need springs and retainers etc.)

2. Builder Recommendations
From what I've read, it's down to English Racing, Buschur or Map. Would anyone like to comment on why I should choose one over another? All three are great people and they know what they're doing so please be specific here.

I'm running an FPblack on 93 pump (no meth) daily driven, not looking to make huge hp. ~550whp would be more than enough. I'm sure i'll have more questions as i go.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 11:01 AM
  #375  
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Originally Posted by Carloverx
2.4L Questions:

1. What cam recommendations do people have for the 2.4L?
Are they really more dependent on larger cams?

(I have cosworth M2 w/o springs etc. Anyone have experience with this cam on a 2.4? If I'm revving beyond 7,800, i guess I'll need springs and retainers etc.)

2. Builder Recommendations
From what I've read, it's down to English Racing, Buschur or Map. Would anyone like to comment on why I should choose one over another? All three are great people and they know what they're doing so please be specific here.

I'm running an FPblack on 93 pump (no meth) daily driven, not looking to make huge hp. ~550whp would be more than enough. I'm sure i'll have more questions as i go.
I would love a chance to earn your business sir, our quality is top notch and our pricing is very competitive. Turn around time should be very prompt as well depending on which components you select.

In regards to cams the additional displacement of the 2.4L certainly yearns for a more aggressive camshaft, unfortunately I don't have experience with the M2's. We're big fans of GSC and depending on your goals an S2 or S3 would be a great option, I believe the guys at ER also have a custom grind specifically for the larger displacement engines.
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