Rockster: You showed us a pic of an FP Red on your dinette table, but you never actually installed it on your Evo, remember? JK LOL

 

Going w/ the 4g63 2.3L is a easier build. The 4g64 2.4L is an alternative if you don't have a extra block and/or if you can't afford the down time.

 

yup there it is



does not matter if i never installed it i paid for it right LOL therefore i owned it for almost a year and it chilled in a box and did good for its photoshoots and holding up my Garage HRS Kevlar Carbon Fiber Splitter. Then when the time came it made its journey back to Fp and a striaght up swap for a fp black at the time. i just paid for the evo 8 to 9 install kit i never got

 

Downtime is irrelevant...its down right now and probably will be until next year. Cost is a factor. Which is why I went with these two choices.

 

the reason was because of torque, but could be also assisted with the other places tune but if you post that on here they will give you infractions since that place is a vendor on here. although there is a place to file a complaint against vendors on here so others can see it. you might want to contact a moderator about it.. personally i think it was torque more then anything, but its important you notify that vendor about what the loads were showing so they dont do it again to another car.

 

doesnt take much to take out a c6 z06. i pulled on a zr1 lingenfelter heads and slight increase in boost guy said he was around 650whp on a dynojet, i was at 42psi on my 2.3 + black. i think he had traction issues, but definitely was extremely surprised that a import pulled on him. said hes never had a car pull him in like that before. he was older, this was up in carlisle in pa where they have like 10,000 vettes at the biggest vette show each year.

Just get a LR 2.4 or a standard 2.4 and combine it with a black and be done. you dont need a 2.1L unless you want to rev 9k+

 

I like my 2.4, I like the 2.2 other than some of the machining issues. Even the 2.0 is fine if you wanna rev. The powerband is only going to be so big vs turbo size, so you need to decide where you want it. Burning tires off gets old with the 2.4 though lol

4-9k, 5-10k, 3-7k, etc.

aaron

 

That is alot of boost. How long have you been running it that high with the Black?

 

it was tapering off to about 34psi by redline. over a thousand miles until i ran the god damn car low on oil from a 500 mile cruise to shootout. its all back together and working again tho. now i check my oil on a daily basis. that was close to one of the most expensive mistakes ive ever made in my life. so if you get a built race motor check your oil frequently!

 

why not 5k to 11,500? or how long exactly will a 2.0L last reving to 12k if its got the best of the best inside it?

 

4-9k seems like a fun car.

 

expensive mistake yes some of us other people have done a built motor rebuild as well and know first hand how much it sucks and cost

 

thats a black on a LR2.4

 

Turbos dont make enough power in that range typically. The best split I have ever seen was a 3065 car that had a bunch of time in the head, the right cams, the right intake and made power from 4200 to 9000. Normally it seems like you have a 3500rpm window though on average. Sometimes a little better, but by and large its pretty tight tolerances.

for reference-

A 42R is 6000-6500 to 11500. Oiling and valvetrain become issues when you get that high. You can make them last, but remember we count our race engines lives in passes not miles.

 

2.4 LR with FP Black or smaller 6262/HTA82/86..........