bore size is standard no need to change that are you meaning compression?? 584 and tune is not even aggressive tuner had to stop because i had a soft spring in my MBC which pretty much capped him at 35psi. I got the forge MBC like 2 1/2 years ago so i had no clue on that never used it until this build. So my car did not break a sweat to get those numbers spring changed out now going back to get real numbers

 

ok so 86,5mm

 

i decided long rod 2.4... seems like best bang for buck... turbo choice i have no clue yet....

but as far as the water pump...

will a galant water pump not work?

 

What do u think the o rings in the deck ? Is it really safer ?

 

you should not be boring it out anymore unless the block you got had issues from jump street and at that point why get a usuable buildable block from mike@awd for like 300



no need to oring anything unless your shooting for 850+ at that point its not a street car anymore for sure.

No BOSS its as evo HEAD mated to the block. Either wield evo pump or use adaptor. Your choice. there is no use another waterpump made for and entirely different car

 

You can have a low mileage block in great shape and it may still need to be bored. Stock bores arent always strait and round and going more than .001"-.0015" and the rings start having trouble sealing and the pistons start getting loose.

 

which is true but if you get the block from a reputable company like AWD he inspects everything before he even sells it at the end of the day you still have to take all this to a machine shop to get it slapped together so if there are issues they are suppose to give you a heads up

 

Mike says all the blocks he sells will clean up with a .020" bore, he never said they will all be useable at stock bore. In the end i bet less than 1 in 10 can be used at stock bore and end up with strait, round bores with proper piston to wall clearance.

 

not sure as i did not get my block form him but i know he sells them and inspects them and would not sell somebody a junk block or crank. Now i got a crank from him all was perfect

 

Wiseco has revised their drop in measurement recently. The last 4 motors we tried as drop ins were good to go on 86.5mm bore and a light hone.

 

As long as we all agree 87mm isnt junk then yes i agree.

 

Just do a 2.4 with a 6262 tuned on E85. Excellent tire shredding setup.

 

It costs more initially of course but its less vibration, revs higher, theoretically should last longer.

 

Theoretically is the key word there boss. We shall see i plan on mine lasting awhile then again thats if i dont sell the car first and move on to something else. eitherway hope to have it for a long time building the block takes forever and is just a gold digging b!tch for the longest time

 

If it wasnt a race engine it WOULD last longer because thats improved geometry at work. I have been at this a long time so when I say things I say them for a reason. The reason I phrased it that way is I have never seen a race motor wear out from mileage. The get pushed till they break or something weird happens and they break. Keep in mind my motor runs so my advice is valid, we build motors and try breaking them for a living not a hobbie.

aaron