Hey guys I am looking to upgrade my turbo here very soon. I have been debating for a while now with what turbo I want to get. I am big fan of the fp red. I would like to have a pump gas tune for dd that is conservative and e85 map for when I want to go to the drag strip or just have a litte fun .
I have read alot that limit on 4g63 is around 450 tq.

With that would a 35r be more reliable on the motor than the red because it would more than likely make less torque?
And wouldn't an fp red be safer than fp green because it would be really pushing itself to make the same power and make more torque?
I want to keep the bottom end stock if possible

My mods

-Precision 880cc injectors-
-Hks 272s cams-
-Crower Titanium Springs and Retainers
-Cometic Head Gasket-
-Arp Head Studs-
-Aem intake-
-Hallman Mbc-
-Espirlir Jgt 500 Cat back-
-Greddy 3 inch inter cooler-
-Synapse bypass valve-
-Megan Down pipe-
-Clutch masters stage 4 clutch-
-Quaff Diff-

what would the reliablity be with the fp red on the stock motor?
I just wanted to get some 2nd opinions on this

 

everything you are saying is pretty much correct. its the torque thats blowing the bottom ends. 450 ft lbs is what ive read. and yes the green will yield more torque than the red and the red will produce more hp. as far as the new hta green i wouldnt be able to help you since i havent kept up on it. as far as the 35r yes same concept, but if your saying you DD the car i wouldnt recommend it as a DD turbo unless you have considered the new gtx3571r...that looks to be a promising stock framed turbo. i have considered it...actually ive been thinkin about it ALOT lol

im not sure what your plans otherwise are for your car. idk what you have on pump...but i can tell you my experience with the red. its a GREAT DD turbo, great spool, great power, and lots of power to be made out of it. as you can see my car was pretty much stock and it put down good number, actually i would say great for the mods i had. it also ran a 12.0 with a slipping clutch and **** poor tires which killed my 60ft. and i havent had a chance to go back yet, but it was def 11s capable with the old parts and stock parts. with the new toys and good tires def mid 11s. as far as ''having fun'' like im not sure if your talking about on the street but, ill tell you your not gonna find too many cars that will be able to keep up with you on the street.

with e85 the car is a completely different animal. cant share any personally experience since i dont have it. but you have a good mod list and i would recommend the red for you or the gtx35r. good luck man

 

thanks for info^ how long do reds typically last on these motors if the tune is golden? I know there is no definite answer. I mean is it something I should worry about everytime I get on it? you know? lol I would be very happy if it lasted a full year honestly

 

Stock block won't last very long at 450 wtq...

 

idk how long they would ''last''. you know you cant put a number on it, and FP turbos do not typically blow. they are great products. i was one of the first say 25 maybe to get my red and in February will be 2 years and i have no problems. im still running the stock oil and coolant lines, and the original stock housing. when i purchased the red the FP oil line wasnt out and it was months before anyone said you need to relocate the oil pressure. so you really cant say. some reds have blown because ''oil starvation'' like they say...and then you have my car and others that are running strong still...

if your looking for mileage numbers i can say if held up super strong for 55k+ miles. and also consider i use to go to the tracks every wednesday and beat on it. and this is DD abuse also.

no complaints here, if your worried about the turbo, honestly they dont have problems just people get sick of it and want to go bigger!

 

wow thats great to hear!
how much boost do run daily ?
are you on just pump gas?
did you ask the tuner to keep it conservative?

 

Mine lasted about 50K miles. I think that in the end my DV flutter that I developed in the past few months might have killed it. I ran my turbo at 30psi from day one and drove hard pretty much all the time. It was great. I plan to get it rebuilt into a FP Black. I wish I could just go to the 3586 but with 111k on the odo I am saving for an engine rebuild.

 

I have it, its 400 ft lbs. day in day out. Even then I have seen one motor kick rods out and 2 spin bearings (which is odd really).

General-

My car went 49k at that level and I even posted the pix of the bearings and pistons when I tore it down to do the new motor. What we have noticed is that 400 will go for awhile, 425 for around 2 year, 470 for 3 weeks, and 490+ for 3 days. This is all based on threads found here so its not secret knowledge. There are ways to tune some of the torque out and keep it "safer" but anytime you push on something sooner or later its going to push back.

 

500whp and 440tq on my 64mm red. had it for almost 2 years in feb also. still running strong on e85 and sometimes in 91.

 

you guys are making me feel really good about getting the red

 

This is completely incorrect. Based on my real world experience, my stock motor lasted nearly 3years/ 35k miles with over 450wtq. I've gone wot atleast once a day for the entire time frame my car has been exceeding 450wtq. I gave my motor hell on a consistent daily basis with a minimum of 33psi on my stock turbo, 37psi on the red and black, and 37psi on the hta82. At one point, my car made 580wtq @46psi on the fp black and didn't even flinch. In the end I believe my rod failure was a combination of high power and rpm, not from simply exceeding the sceptical "450wtq limit".

 

Why do you blame DV flutter? What oil were you using when you experienced the failure?

 

I'm new to the Evo game and trying to learn as much as I can about how much these motors can hold and how far I can push it. Found some very good and promising information in this thread. Keep it coming! LOL

 

540hp/430tq FP Red on stock motor for about a year and a half. The motor looked brand new when ER did my motor build. If I had done things different I would have kept the stock block longer and just went black instead of Red. jmo

Mikey

 

My failure happened not to long after the flutter developed. It is just guess though. It also seems that the comp. wheel is independent of the rest of the assembly. I am going to remove it sun. or mon. depending on time/weather. I have used all types in the past, but was using q horse power at the time and was going to change out to ams oil that day. I do not think anything would have saved it. I don't know.