Difficulty Shifting Into 2nd Gear
I have the same problem since DAY 1.
Can they do fix it under warranty?
I do not want to experiment with different oil. They should do it -if that is to help.
Am I rigth?
Anybody had this fixed?
Damn - I FEEL ASHAMED WHEN this happens ( usually showing off at the time)
Can they do fix it under warranty?
I do not want to experiment with different oil. They should do it -if that is to help.
Am I rigth?
Anybody had this fixed?
Damn - I FEEL ASHAMED WHEN this happens ( usually showing off at the time)
i thought the 1-2 shift issue was widely accepted by now as just a nuance of the evo's 5-speed.
its a simple balancing act. the synchro ring(s) must synchronize two shafts that are spinning at different speeds. the greater the difference in speed between the two gears, the more work there is for the synchro...
SO (in any gear):
the farther apart your gear ratios (1-2, 2-3, 3-4, etc), the more work for the synchro.
the higher the engine rpm when you shift, the more work for the synchro.
the faster you ask the synchro to do it's job, the more work for the synchro.
the more work there is for the synchro, the more likely it won't be able to do it's job, and if it doesn't get the gears all the way synchronized, you miss a shift, looking stupid in the process (im certainly no exception to this rule).
if you change the fluid to something that allows more traction between the synchro surfaces, you're probably sacrificing some synchro life for shiftability and it will probably add life to the gears' large teeth (i forget what those are called) that lock together at the end of a shift.
the marginal gains offered by a different fluid (ive had great luck with GM synchromesh in my Evo) are worth the effort, though the biggest difference with my car was getting it into first, approaching a stop.
the only thing that will make a substantial difference for the 1-2 is a bigger synchro for second gear, a lighter gearshaft, gearset or clutch disk... or just more time for the current piece to do it's job.
there are other factors that affect this, including the shifter mechanism and it's positivity; Any amount of elasticity (well, compression, really) could hinder the (what should be) linear conveyance of clamping force to the syncro surfaces. this could unduly shorten the operating window for the synchro and limit it's time at full-force compression load.
the well-timed release of the clutch is important, and the restrictor pill and/or stock rubber hose could play a role in clutch release response time, though i would expect peoples' left-foot/right-hand coordination to be more often at fault.
i think non-warranty-concerned folk should go with a fully upgraded shifter mechanism (replace rubber/plastic with metal wherever you can) and a stainless steel clutch line, no restrictor, and maybe try to find a lightweight but streetable clutch disk (GM synchromesh too, of course).
warranty-concerned folk: GM Synchromesh, and shift slower. replacing any of the stock parts could (even thought it's BS) give mitsu some sort of scapegoat, and you never know what dumbass or corrupt judge you might get if it came down to a court case.
lets hope mitsu's new 6-speed has some good synchro's... maybe they'll make some sort of nice package-deal on upgrades to MR parts... for the $ that most of us are upside-down on our current loans, we could probably pay for that new 6-speed (wonder if it will be swap-able). im already planning to get the bilsteins.
its a simple balancing act. the synchro ring(s) must synchronize two shafts that are spinning at different speeds. the greater the difference in speed between the two gears, the more work there is for the synchro...
SO (in any gear):
the farther apart your gear ratios (1-2, 2-3, 3-4, etc), the more work for the synchro.
the higher the engine rpm when you shift, the more work for the synchro.
the faster you ask the synchro to do it's job, the more work for the synchro.
the more work there is for the synchro, the more likely it won't be able to do it's job, and if it doesn't get the gears all the way synchronized, you miss a shift, looking stupid in the process (im certainly no exception to this rule).
if you change the fluid to something that allows more traction between the synchro surfaces, you're probably sacrificing some synchro life for shiftability and it will probably add life to the gears' large teeth (i forget what those are called) that lock together at the end of a shift.
the marginal gains offered by a different fluid (ive had great luck with GM synchromesh in my Evo) are worth the effort, though the biggest difference with my car was getting it into first, approaching a stop.
the only thing that will make a substantial difference for the 1-2 is a bigger synchro for second gear, a lighter gearshaft, gearset or clutch disk... or just more time for the current piece to do it's job.
there are other factors that affect this, including the shifter mechanism and it's positivity; Any amount of elasticity (well, compression, really) could hinder the (what should be) linear conveyance of clamping force to the syncro surfaces. this could unduly shorten the operating window for the synchro and limit it's time at full-force compression load.
the well-timed release of the clutch is important, and the restrictor pill and/or stock rubber hose could play a role in clutch release response time, though i would expect peoples' left-foot/right-hand coordination to be more often at fault.
i think non-warranty-concerned folk should go with a fully upgraded shifter mechanism (replace rubber/plastic with metal wherever you can) and a stainless steel clutch line, no restrictor, and maybe try to find a lightweight but streetable clutch disk (GM synchromesh too, of course).
warranty-concerned folk: GM Synchromesh, and shift slower. replacing any of the stock parts could (even thought it's BS) give mitsu some sort of scapegoat, and you never know what dumbass or corrupt judge you might get if it came down to a court case.
lets hope mitsu's new 6-speed has some good synchro's... maybe they'll make some sort of nice package-deal on upgrades to MR parts... for the $ that most of us are upside-down on our current loans, we could probably pay for that new 6-speed (wonder if it will be swap-able). im already planning to get the bilsteins.
Last edited by Turbocake; May 25, 2004 at 02:23 PM.
About a month ago I went to the dealer to change trans oil at 15,000mi and asked them to look into the 1-2 issue - of course report came back: "Performs as expected, no problem". Next time, it's ??? Synchromesh (Hmm, sounds like GM sources from Pennzoil, but Pennzoil itself is only a shell organization now and no longer makes its own oil - I'll have to dig in to find out who the actual manufacturer is).
you have to use some dedicated delay in your 1-2 or you'll miss it, but 2-3 and 3-4 are just fine if you go as fast as possible. thats the only way that I've found to get a decent result.
theres a guy on this forum with a 500 whp evo (or something like that) but the thread is hella long and has a link to a vid of him ripping through the gears around a slight bend in the road. his 1-2 is pretty fast, you might search for the thread and PM the guy asking what, if anything, he's done to be able to shift so fast.
theres a guy on this forum with a 500 whp evo (or something like that) but the thread is hella long and has a link to a vid of him ripping through the gears around a slight bend in the road. his 1-2 is pretty fast, you might search for the thread and PM the guy asking what, if anything, he's done to be able to shift so fast.
I have almost the same problem as u guys but my evo wouldn't shift from 7800- 8300rpm atall u have shift like a grandma @ that rpm range !! call exedy and their reply was -- i was making too much hp for a single cluch system and i have to use their twin /triple cluch system . any of u guys ever have this problem ? help please thank's .
Rob.
Rob.
My car has always had the crunchy 1-2 shift. About two weeks ago I fixed it. Here is what I did:
KartBoy green underhood shifter bushings.
KartBoy short shifter.
Works stainless/Kevlar clutch line.
Mobil One synthetic gear oil.
If I had known how much better this would make my shifting, I would have done it the very first day!
KartBoy green underhood shifter bushings.
KartBoy short shifter.
Works stainless/Kevlar clutch line.
Mobil One synthetic gear oil.
If I had known how much better this would make my shifting, I would have done it the very first day!
Originally Posted by rchan33
I have almost the same problem as u guys but my evo wouldn't shift from 7800- 8300rpm atall u have shift like a grandma @ that rpm range !! call exedy and their reply was -- i was making too much hp for a single cluch system and i have to use their twin /triple cluch system . any of u guys ever have this problem ? help please thank's .
Rob.
Rob.
You know that's a load of crap. I know hundreds of 600+ HP race cars that use single disk.
I already order their triple disc system from exedy, after i install i will let u guys know d outcome ! by the way i think iam making around the 600-650 hp range
jun 272 in&ex cams tit. retainer , springs, stage 3 cyl. head, forge piston, crower rods, hks to4z turbo, dnp extractor type turbo manifold ,1000cc inj, massive fuel pump,apexi power fc ,3" exhaust system,hks cam gear,blitz front intercooler,aem uego controller.
jun 272 in&ex cams tit. retainer , springs, stage 3 cyl. head, forge piston, crower rods, hks to4z turbo, dnp extractor type turbo manifold ,1000cc inj, massive fuel pump,apexi power fc ,3" exhaust system,hks cam gear,blitz front intercooler,aem uego controller.
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