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Eagle rods, fail!!!!!

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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 02:43 PM
  #16  
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Eagle makes 2.4 sized rods?
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 03:29 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by project_skyline
Eagle makes 2.4 sized rods?
4g63 & 4g64 rods are the same, the diference 6mm more of stroke at the crank thats why the 4g64 have a longer block.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 03:33 PM
  #18  
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I had no trouble out of my 2.3 DSM 6 bolt eagle rods. Made 653FWhp before I finally parted it out. Tons of beating on it. Its in another car somewhere now.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 03:36 PM
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I have eagle rods on my 2.0. 700+ hp and Motor going on 4 years now.... Sounds like an assembly error which caused the rod to break that quickly. I never seen an eagle rod broke in half, seen plenty of bent ones though
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 03:52 PM
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From: Colorado
Originally Posted by 1NastyMR
I have eagle rods on my 2.0. 700+ hp and Motor going on 4 years now.... Sounds like an assembly error which caused the rod to break that quickly. I never seen an eagle rod broke in half, seen plenty of bent ones though
I've seen Eagle rods break in half. That does not necessarily mean, though, that is the cause of the failure in the OP's motor.

OP, when you take it apart, it would be very helpful to take quality pictures of everything to document condition for the "autopsy". Good luck in finding out the cause of your failure.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 04:02 PM
  #21  
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Trying to upload a pic of the block. It is from piston #4. I need help here

Last edited by vikevo9; Jul 3, 2011 at 04:06 PM.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 04:09 PM
  #22  
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Done! But sideways
Attached Thumbnails Eagle rods, fail!!!!!-bielaevo.jpg  

Last edited by vikevo9; Jul 3, 2011 at 04:12 PM.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 04:19 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by vikevo9
Done! But sideways
The pictures you need are of the rod itself, the rod bearings, the cylinder it came out of, what your oil particles and shavings look like when you drain the motor, and similar potential causes of the failure.

The hole in the block is the result, not the cause.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 04:20 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by vikevo9
A friend, who is a certified mec. and works at a mitsubishi dealer as a machanic.
So hes a good parts changer, that does not mean that he is an engine builder.
What were the gaps on the mains,rods, piston to wall clearance, what oil, what oil pump?

If the motor previously spun a bearing and you had it rebuild/built. Was the crank cleaned out, oil cooler,oil lines ect...

Far to many things is this puzzle. Live and learn, just because your friend works for Mitsubishi pretty much means he can diagnose a problem and change a part, doesn't make him an engineer or someone who possess the knowledge to build an engine and have it last 200,000 miles
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 04:23 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by CO_VR4
The pictures you need are of the rod itself, the rod bearings, the cylinder it came out of, what your oil particles and shavings look like when you drain the motor, and similar potential causes of the failure.

The hole in the block is the result, not the cause.
I want you to see the part if the rod that is partially out of the engine.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 04:31 PM
  #26  
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had a buddy put a hole in a $9000 fully built k24. To our best guess, with a massive window in the block, a missing rod, and an eerily intact piston, we are pretty sure the engine builder put the floating wrist pin in backwards. it let go with no warning at 9k rpm's

ive never personally seen many rods let loose at moderate power levels without installer error like this being the cause.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 04:37 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Evolutionn
So hes a good parts changer, that does not mean that he is an engine builder.
What were the gaps on the mains,rods, piston to wall clearance, what oil, what oil pump?

If the motor previously spun a bearing and you had it rebuild/built. Was the crank cleaned out, oil cooler,oil lines ect...

Far to many things is this puzzle. Live and learn, just because your friend works for Mitsubishi pretty much means he can diagnose a problem and change a part, doesn't make him an engineer or someone who possess the knowledge to build an engine and have it last 200,000 miles
Part changer, LOL (that's what I call him). All clearnces were verified...
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 04:43 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by killerpenguin21
had a buddy put a hole in a $9000 fully built k24. To our best guess, with a massive window in the block, a missing rod, and an eerily intact piston, we are pretty sure the engine builder put the floating wrist pin in backwards. it let go with no warning at 9k rpm's

ive never personally seen many rods let loose at moderate power levels without installer error like this being the cause.
I agree, it hapned at only 5k rpm and the engine did't show any signs of problems...
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 05:13 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by killerpenguin21
had a buddy put a hole in a $9000 fully built k24. To our best guess, with a massive window in the block, a missing rod, and an eerily intact piston, we are pretty sure the engine builder put the floating wrist pin in backwards. it let go with no warning at 9k rpm's

ive never personally seen many rods let loose at moderate power levels without installer error like this being the cause.
just out curiosity what piston and rod assembly, I have built tons of k series motors and never knew the wrist pin could be backwards.
Originally Posted by vikevo9
Part changer, LOL (that's what I call him). All clearnces were verified...
sucks for your loss, as soon as pictures are taken of the top of the head, the piston parts and everything. Do you have a wideband on your car? What Injectors and fuel?
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 05:24 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by canitbethislong
just out curiosity what piston and rod assembly, I have built tons of k series motors and never knew the wrist pin could be backwards.


sucks for your loss, as soon as pictures are taken of the top of the head, the piston parts and everything. Do you have a wideband on your car? What Injectors and fuel?
Yes I have a wideband, AFR was 11.7 at the moment, injectors are 880cc precision and running 22 pounds of boost (at 7500RPM). 93 oct. fuel.
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