i personally agree on eagle failing..
really sucks this happened...

 

That makes more sense.


Who has a break in tune? I have yet to build or install a motor that didnt get the %^*&% beat out of it at under 2 miles.

Check afrs, timing, knock. Go to town.

 

The rod cap looks good and that def. was a Rod failure! Eagle is known to be a cheapo rod since the beginning. It could have been cheap metal and some hold up and most dont. So I suggest not to waste your time next time and at least get Manley's next time. Same price maybe a little more, but we have seen 600 on them with no problems.

Kasey

 

Agreed. Manley H-Beams are the perfect compromise between reliability and weight for just about every street car out there. Just like any other part in the world, they can fail.

As far as your Eagle rods, I'm sorry they let go like that. The local circle track guys all dumped their Eagle rods and cranks a few years back into a the parts bin. They were having just about every issue you could think of. Of course breaking stuff is part of racing, but once they switched to different manufacturers, there were more than three people finishing a race at the end of the weekend. But there were plenty of times where a set of rods and a crank would last all season. Even parts out of the same "batch" would be on opposite ends of the reliability spectrum.

I know the sport compact world is much different than the other guys, but a if a company has a bad reputation in the Chevy scene, I'm sure they don't change their quality control practices for the Honda scene.

See what I'm getting at?

 

guys, the manley h beams are made in china just like the eagles.

snapped manley h beam http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ghlight=manley

 

I have a break in tune. In fact everyone I know that has a built motor had a break in tune. Some people build a motor then tune it all out "breaking it in" on the dyno. Some people elect to do a mild tune just to make sure everything is in order then retune the car all out once X amount of miles are placed on it.

 

550 on a suby is about right, but I have seen over 600 on a evo witht he H-beam rods! But I agree not to skimp out on good rods!

 

weak sause and a dumb idea. Rings are 90% seated in after only a few(under20) miles. ... better use that cross hatching while you have it.

 

ive heard that a majority of the now current "hbeams" are made in china... with the few exceptions being like mil.spec, etc..

 

...

 

I was always under the impression that you should dirve the car for a while before beating the snot out of it. But I have seen more and more people say that as long as the motor doesn't eat itself in the first 50 you can beat on it.

 

pretty much with exceptions like milspec, carillo and maybe a couple more. manley i beams are made in the usa though.

 

There are a number of high quality billet rods that are CNC'd right here in the good old USA. They include R&R (used by Magnus Motorsports and lots of others) and GRP Rods here in Colorado, as well as others...

 

This makes me feel real good. I just put together a 4g63 with eagle H beams. Oh well there are bunches of guys running them and just like everything sometimes you get unlucky and get crapped on.
Has the block been disassembled yet? Does the wrist pin still free float?

 

sorry to see what happened to your motor, i hope you can rebuild it stronger than ever.

personally I will only run carrillo rods, yes it's overkill in some situations but i do believe in overbuilding.

I build for the bad tank of gas etc. sure my cars will never see 600wtq but when im building the last thing i want to have to be worried about is "what if" when it comes to the components ive put into a block and head.