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Eagle rods, fail!!!!!

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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 07:03 PM
  #76  
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From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Never got why people put Eagle rods in there motors, i mean its one of the most important parts. Even though the H-Beam Manley rods are made in China, there quality control is better then Eagle's....for the price they're a good compromise. Buying Eagle rods is like playing Russian Roulet....with 4 bullets in the chamber, only a few get out alive.

I stuck with Manley, but i'm trying out there 300m I beams....so they are USA made. If i knew what i know now, i might have gone with a R&R rod or an Oliver Rod...
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 07:40 PM
  #77  
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Does anyone know where the brian crower h beam rods are made? In the usa or china? They are more expensive than the manley rods
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 08:05 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by RSMike
Does anyone know where the brian crower h beam rods are made? In the usa or china? They are more expensive than the manley rods
I actually just witnessed one of them let go at barely under 600whp.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 08:39 PM
  #79  
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From: milwaukee, wi
Originally Posted by Teal2nnr
Never got why people put Eagle rods in there motors, i mean its one of the most important parts. Even though the H-Beam Manley rods are made in China, there quality control is better then Eagle's....for the price they're a good compromise. Buying Eagle rods is like playing Russian Roulet....with 4 bullets in the chamber, only a few get out alive.

I stuck with Manley, but i'm trying out there 300m I beams....so they are USA made. If i knew what i know now, i might have gone with a R&R rod or an Oliver Rod...
the 300m i beams are better than the r&r and olivers. i wouldnt second guess them at all.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 09:04 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by n2oiroc
the 300m i beams are better than the r&r and olivers. i wouldnt second guess them at all.
what is the difference between the 300M material and the "normal" turbo tuff rod material?
The 300M is 685grams, the normal Turbo tuff is 675grams and the "lightweight" turbo tuff rod is 637grams.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 09:07 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by RSMike
Does anyone know where the brian crower h beam rods are made? In the usa or china? They are more expensive than the manley rods
They are made in both China and the USA. The BC rods made in the USA have crower stamped or cnc'd into the big end cap while the chinese do not; they both however cost the same amount and are sold interchangeably. The ones made in the USA are made locally to me in Southern California and I had a set made with the crower marking. If you want a set made here in the USA, pm me and i can see about getting you some.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 09:12 PM
  #82  
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Well we have built over 40 motors with Eagle rods and the only one I have seen fail is when we had a certain company's piston top break off which of course cause the rod to break. We have made 700whp on many evos on Eagle rods. Most of the time if we are pushing past 600whp we will do a better rod.

Just because some one is a master tech does not mean they build motors. These days most dealers would never go inside a motor. They will just drop a new one in. My guess if the rod is still on the crank is broken piston or bad pin fit in the piston or a Meth kit that went wrong with either preignition or plain hydro lock from drain back.

You would be surprised how many other rods out there are just rebadged Eagle rods. So if it looks like a Eagle good chance it is.

While its easy to just blame the part I highly doubt it was the rods fault.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 09:20 PM
  #83  
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If you are talking about Chris car it was a large amount of meth being injected. So I would be willing to bet the something with the Meth caused it. Warned Chris of the risk of it but he wanted to keep pushing it. Depending on 100+whp on Meth injection was not the safest, but he wanted to keep it that way.

I have seen $800 AMS olver rods bend when Meth Injection stuff goes wrong.

Meth injecton is great as long as you keep the car off revlimters and your 1970s tech RV water pump and fog light realys dont have problems.


Originally Posted by munster87
A buddy of mine ran eagle rods in his 2.4 and they lasted a few years, but once he made 700whp one of the rods snapped.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 09:20 PM
  #84  
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From: olympia
Originally Posted by Teal2nnr
Buying Eagle rods is like playing Russian Roulet....with 4 bullets in the chamber, only a few get out alive.
I'd say its more like playing russian roulet with a gun that's empty 90% of the time...i think thats why they have such a fan club...usually they work fine...it just sucks when you're the guy who gets a bad one...
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 10:48 PM
  #85  
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still waiting for pics to prove rod was at fault.
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 12:20 AM
  #86  
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Be nice to see some photo's
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 06:02 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by reactionevo8
I'd say its more like playing russian roulet with a gun that's empty 90% of the time...i think thats why they have such a fan club...usually they work fine...it just sucks when you're the guy who gets a bad one...

That sucks!!!
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 11:09 AM
  #88  
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There is something about being half way around the world from your market that makes quality control a little less important.
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 03:09 PM
  #89  
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I've known tons of people to use Eagles, myself included. I've never seen a failure.

All manufacturers have accidents, this was one of them. Always double check your parts upon delivery.
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 04:46 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by SmurfZilla
I was always under the impression that you should dirve the car for a while before beating the snot out of it. But I have seen more and more people say that as long as the motor doesn't eat itself in the first 50 you can beat on it.
50 miles is well more then any(even stock dsm) motor ive put together that i let go easy..

Most are -- start it -- check afrs and leaks. Let it warm up to full temp. Shut off car -- change oil/filter. Start up -- go out -- and start ripping some pulls moniter knock, afr, timing and boost... Engine decel over brakes and go to town. If its going to break -- its going to come apart at idle. Past that -- pound it.


What does taking it easy for 50 miles even "do" .. come on people.. common sense.
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