Eagle rods, fail!!!!!
Never got why people put Eagle rods in there motors, i mean its one of the most important parts. Even though the H-Beam Manley rods are made in China, there quality control is better then Eagle's....for the price they're a good compromise. Buying Eagle rods is like playing Russian Roulet....with 4 bullets in the chamber, only a few get out alive.
I stuck with Manley, but i'm trying out there 300m I beams....so they are USA made. If i knew what i know now, i might have gone with a R&R rod or an Oliver Rod...
I stuck with Manley, but i'm trying out there 300m I beams....so they are USA made. If i knew what i know now, i might have gone with a R&R rod or an Oliver Rod...
Never got why people put Eagle rods in there motors, i mean its one of the most important parts. Even though the H-Beam Manley rods are made in China, there quality control is better then Eagle's....for the price they're a good compromise. Buying Eagle rods is like playing Russian Roulet....with 4 bullets in the chamber, only a few get out alive.
I stuck with Manley, but i'm trying out there 300m I beams....so they are USA made. If i knew what i know now, i might have gone with a R&R rod or an Oliver Rod...
I stuck with Manley, but i'm trying out there 300m I beams....so they are USA made. If i knew what i know now, i might have gone with a R&R rod or an Oliver Rod...
The 300M is 685grams, the normal Turbo tuff is 675grams and the "lightweight" turbo tuff rod is 637grams.
They are made in both China and the USA. The BC rods made in the USA have crower stamped or cnc'd into the big end cap while the chinese do not; they both however cost the same amount and are sold interchangeably. The ones made in the USA are made locally to me in Southern California and I had a set made with the crower marking. If you want a set made here in the USA, pm me and i can see about getting you some.
Well we have built over 40 motors with Eagle rods and the only one I have seen fail is when we had a certain company's piston top break off which of course cause the rod to break. We have made 700whp on many evos on Eagle rods. Most of the time if we are pushing past 600whp we will do a better rod.
Just because some one is a master tech does not mean they build motors. These days most dealers would never go inside a motor. They will just drop a new one in. My guess if the rod is still on the crank is broken piston or bad pin fit in the piston or a Meth kit that went wrong with either preignition or plain hydro lock from drain back.
You would be surprised how many other rods out there are just rebadged Eagle rods. So if it looks like a Eagle good chance it is.
While its easy to just blame the part I highly doubt it was the rods fault.
Just because some one is a master tech does not mean they build motors. These days most dealers would never go inside a motor. They will just drop a new one in. My guess if the rod is still on the crank is broken piston or bad pin fit in the piston or a Meth kit that went wrong with either preignition or plain hydro lock from drain back.
You would be surprised how many other rods out there are just rebadged Eagle rods. So if it looks like a Eagle good chance it is.
While its easy to just blame the part I highly doubt it was the rods fault.
If you are talking about Chris car it was a large amount of meth being injected. So I would be willing to bet the something with the Meth caused it. Warned Chris of the risk of it but he wanted to keep pushing it. Depending on 100+whp on Meth injection was not the safest, but he wanted to keep it that way.
I have seen $800 AMS olver rods bend when Meth Injection stuff goes wrong.
Meth injecton is great as long as you keep the car off revlimters and your 1970s tech RV water pump and fog light realys dont have problems.
I have seen $800 AMS olver rods bend when Meth Injection stuff goes wrong.
Meth injecton is great as long as you keep the car off revlimters and your 1970s tech RV water pump and fog light realys dont have problems.
I'd say its more like playing russian roulet with a gun that's empty 90% of the time...i think thats why they have such a fan club...usually they work fine...it just sucks when you're the guy who gets a bad one...
Most are -- start it -- check afrs and leaks. Let it warm up to full temp. Shut off car -- change oil/filter. Start up -- go out -- and start ripping some pulls moniter knock, afr, timing and boost... Engine decel over brakes and go to town. If its going to break -- its going to come apart at idle. Past that -- pound it.
What does taking it easy for 50 miles even "do" .. come on people.. common sense.






