Well, this is my story. My 2.4 Evo 9 was ready for tuning after 900 mi of b.in; and disaster hapened. A rod broke and now I have a new hole in the block!!!!
Have this hapened to any of you? I will NEVER use eagle rods again!!!!
This hapened at around 5k rpm with no sign of trouble from the engine.

 

who built the motor?

 

Beat me to it...

 

A friend, who is a certified mec. and works at a mitsubishi dealer as a machanic.

 

dam that sucks but mines work fine at 9k must be tuning

 

Its not suprising when you buy the cheapest rod you can find...ive seen eagles support alot of power,and ive seen them fail quickly on lower power setups...im sure quality varies quite a bit from batch to batch

Ive never understood why people skimp on such an important part of the engine..Gonna cost alot more to find a new engine than it would have cost to buy a quality rod from the get go...

 

I agree with you, lesson lerned the hard way!!!!

 

How can you immediately blame Eagle? That seems unreasonable.

There is a much greater chance of install error than there is for a flawed part. Get ready to be ripped a new one.

 

whats a quality rod?

 

fwiw an engine built improperly is gonna show signs of failure quicker than 1k miles...of course this all changes if the engine was knocking and the op didnt recognize that as a "bad" thing...

 

In most cases that is true(your first sentence). I should have been clearer originally. When taking a motor out of a car, re-building it and then replacing it there are a lot of variables that can cause problems. Not related solely to the actual installation of rods, rod bearings and wrist pins, there are many factors during the entire 'installation' that can lead to problems down the road. Could be something as simple as old bearing material suddenly becoming dislodged and contaminating the oil leading ultimately to a nice window in the block.

Diagnosing why an engine blew up is very difficult and it seems the OP has immediately blamed the part that came in contact with his block instead of doing some 'forensic' examination. Lastly, your point to the OP being cognizant about rod knock plays a big part. Rods don't usually put themselves through a block without developing prior warning signs.

 

Tell us more about your mods and break in tune. Did you use a new oil pump with the rebuild?

 

if the rod failed & the bearings look ok = not black or seized & both rod bolts are still torqued in the big end, then the rod failed.

pictures & more details would be a benefit... i have seen & heard both sides of the coin when it comes to eagle products = or ......sucks that it happened to you.

 

That is totally true, but no abnormal sound came of the engine, oil pressure was fine, there was no knoking or abnormal noise from the engine; BTW the car was idleling in 3 cyl when I shut it down, and the engine still starts.

 

Iwill tear down the engine tomorrow.