i have installed and recommended the stg 5 to about 5 guys here in barbados and all of us soon after experience clutch lockout on them. for some reason it fails the hold clutch pedal in gear rev test. mine starts to jerk foward at 6900 rpm. clutch pedal is adjusted all the way out and new fluids and master and slave cylinder changes have not corrected this issue.

 

This seems a bit strange.

You stated it was slipping in high gear yet there's plenty on material on the disk.

Hard to tell from the photos but I'm wondering if the PP or FW were glazed?

Was the flywheel resurfaced prior to install? Also, did you follow the break in period?

I'm only asking to ascertain what happened not to blast you for anything.

 

Do you think its because its a puck clutch that cause the lockout? What part Barbados are you from? I lived in st.michaels

 

By the time the clutch was replaced (1 month ago) it was slipping under boost (26 psi on a BBK full and pump) from second gear and up.

The flywheel (ACT StreetLite) was resurfaced when the clutch was installed. I also did OEM TOB, SS upper and lower clutch lines, STM clutch fork stop and Amsoil Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90. Even the DIA Queen got flushed and replaced in the Rear Diff and TC at the same time. I try to be meticulous with regard to my car...it may not have the biggest turbo or make a **** ton of power but all the parts are quality ones that I'd say the community as a whole would trust and my is always in excellent mechanical and cosmetic condition.

I did 300 mile break in: city driving (I live in downtown Vancouver so literally city driving as work is just outside of downtown). No boost, no launches...I even avoided steep routes with steep inclines to avoid slipping the clutch as much as possible. Clutch was great. I brought back the car to the shop that installed it to check if the pedal needed to be readjusted as it was recommended by ER. It was found to be at good height so they didn't adjust it.

The clutch is a dream to drive around on the street, and it shifted amazingly well during this time. When I purchased the car is came with an exedy stage II single. Pedal engaged very high but never slipped...it had ****ty feel and was a pita to drive.

I was just surprised since I babied the car on the street. After the breakI took the car to the strip where it made 7 12.7-13.0 second passes trapping 108 mph range. The mods at the time were BBK full, hks 272 mivec cams, Perrin intake, tune....stock exhaust. The car was making around 330-340 whp at that time on the dynojed. I did one autocross event the day after the drag strip....again it was fine.

Drove like this for another 9 months or so. During that time I did maybe 3 or 4 more launches on the street....one of them as I mentioned before was ****ty and I slipped it too much and smelled clutch for 5 minutes on my way to a meet. Parked up for an hour and the car was fine under boost on the way home when I got on the throttle.

A few months later my car gained ETS intercooler and piping, tbe...basically full boltons. I took my car to my local shop (same one that did the clutch install). Installed mil-spec tb seal to fix a boost leak. Replaced my walbro 255 and fuel filter, did fuel lab mini fpr, and fic blue max 1100 high Z due to fuel pressure issues running out of injector. A month later I installed a sparktech non-cdi pro. Car ran great...decided to put in some race gas while there and went out that night to do some road tuning...that's when it started slipping in 3rd gear under boost....that was about 6 months ago or thereabout I'd say.

Due to the problem I pretty much stayed off full throttle to avoid exacerbating the issue but every so often I'd give it some boost in a low gear and it would be fine but in 3rd it would slip after 4k when the BBK was on full boil. Problem got progressively worse to the point that I stayed off boost completely as I DD my evo.

I was surprised to see so much material left on the disc but I'm not an engineer. So my question is unless my car is making more torque than the clutch is rated for I don't get why it started to slip. With full bolt ons minus the sparktech non-cdi pro and a small boost leak at the tb seals it did 380hp / 318 ft-lbs on a Mustang. Dynojet it did 446 whp / 373 ft-lbs. This was before all the fuel system upgrades, on stock coils and plugs gapped to .020 ".

My intention is not to bash the product but simply state my experience. Unfortunately that experience seems to be the exception rather than the norm. I hope others have better luck.

 

Thank you for your detailed experience!

I'd be real curious to see what CC or ER would have to say after they examined the clutch. Just seems so odd compared to other reviews....

I really want this clutch to be my next one. ... I hope they can figure out what happened.

 

I'm sure there are several people, including myself, who are wondering whether the clutch fork stopper was properly adjusted. Any comment on that?

 

To my knowledge the fork stopper was never adjusted.

 

That could have been the problem. If the fork was bottoming out on the stopper, then the clutch would not have been fully engaging. Wouldn't be the first time its happened to someone.

 

Makes sense, I should have made sure the shop adjusted the stopper after the break in and every few months and/or heavy use. That never entered my mind as something to adjust as I put mileage on the disc.

 

Yep that makes perfect sense.

The joys of a pull style clutch

 

That clutch doesnt look worn out, the pressure plate doesnt look warped or excessively heated. Curious.

 

im from st. james. and i dunno if being puck has anything to do with my issue, but it has left a bad taste in alot of our mouths and me and others will be going to a different brand.

 

I believe a straight edge would have to be put on the PP to see if it's warped.

Stupid question but the rear main deal wasn't leaking right?

 

I'd say the most likely answer is that the STM clutch fork stopper was not properly adjusted and was keeping the clutch from fully engaging. As the clutch wears the stopper has to be adjusted to keep it ~1/8" from the fork, and he said that it was never done.