Thanks Joe! will text you in a bit.

 

Don't forget cam gears

 

I'm using AEM on mine.

 

Got two of those fancy AEM tru-time's as well



on a side note....
Thought I would share a recent experience I had….. I purchased a 2003 outlander water pump from the local auto-parts store (not a Gate/GMB brand as the OP stated in the first post), and I experience a leak upon start-up. Traced the leak and marked the pump while it was on the block, and it seemed to have very little sealing area. I am not sure if the leak was due to using too much or too little RTV so that could also be a factor. Planning on examining a Gate’s pump next to see if the leak is resolved!
Good luck!

 

Try the GMB brand pump as close to oem as you can get,even made in Japan land.

 

I purchased a GMB unit, installed it and so far I have put around ~400 miles on the build at ~ 24psi and no leaks are experienced. I did however; apply a light even coat of silicone on both sides of the gasket.

Having said that, I compared the other brand I purchased locally vs GMB and honestly they both appeared to be similar in the sense of their sealing area. Thus, I will have to conclude that both should work fine if installed correctly.

If I would suggest, a better way to utilize the silicone material is to apply it evenly then finger tight the pump onto the block….once the silicone hardens after an hour or so, and then torque the bolts down. Use a similar approach that you typically do on oil pans for this material.
Thx for your help!

 

Subscribed...this will come in handy soon

 

I found in another thread someone claiming that a 4G64 belt from a '94 Galant Dohc would work... anyone have an idea what this would do to timing? This is the method I wanted to use, but everyone on this thread uses a 63 belt... just curious.

 

The 64 belt is longer. It would change the location of the cam position so you will need to retime the cams. I use the 63 belt because the evo 9 belt is kevlar reinforced. I recommend it to everyone. No sense in building a motor if your timing belt can snap and destroy everything.

 

I know it will change timing..... but how? Will it true up the timing marks? The 63 belt also changes the timing so it doesn't matter what belt you use, if both mess the timing up. What I'm asking is if you use a 64 belt will timing be dead on without having to advance the cams? Also, the timing belt wouldn't snap... I've never seen one snap because it wasn't strong enough. Gates belts are also Kevlar reinforced.... but only 30 bucks.

 

@blackops

I used the galant dohc belt and the timing on the outside of the gears was pulled by a half tooth on either side IIRC. It didn't help that the sonata head was partially warped do to the high miles (about 250k). If it wasn't decked so far, it would've lined up perfectly. Keep in mind this was swapped into a 3g eclipse.

 

Thanks 2001gslp, that's what I was looking for. I will go this route and report my experience back to this thread if it makes it easier.

 

It really doesnt matter where the timing lines up. Set it as close as possible with the crank at TDC and the cams close. After you set the timing and there is no slack in the belts, you can line up the dowl pins on the cams to the marks on the valve cover.

If you look in the original post, there is a pic of how it should look. That is why you use the adjustable gears to "re-time" the cams.

The difference in belt pertains to how far right or left the gears will be. I believe with the 63 belt, the cams will be more to the right or "Advanced" and with the 64 belt it will be to the left or "retarded."

 

I have seen a few gates belts start to shred and teeth shear off. Root cause could have been anything but I have not seen this on any 9 belts. Which is why I would not recommend the gates one.

 

I'm running the 9 kevlar belt as well.