im curious on the oring debate as well.

a buddy ran his 2.4lr to 43 psi . made right about 800whp. non o-ringed

 

I've just read through this 24-page thread for about the 3rd time. There is some fantastic information in here! I'm really looking forward to building a 4G64 in the future

 

This is a long debate lol. I o-ringed mine this year since the hg blew. I was at 45psi. At this point, it cant hurt to have the added sealing reinforcement. I also, had my head decked and cleaned. I have seen plenty or motors making tons of power without them. Some people will live by them and some wont. It pretty much personal preference at this point. I know most guys that run them use nitrous. This is a shock to the engine when they spray so the oring is needed.

 

Are you guys o-ringing the head, the block or both? Is one more reliable than the other? Is this something a normal machine shop can do or does this need to be executed by a specialty shop? Is there a certain type of O-ring needed (ie steel vs copper)?

 

My head is o-ringed. I am using a .046 copper ring. It sticks out roughly .005- .008 from the head and the block does NOT have a receiving groove. I wanted the o-ring to bite into the gasket and create a nice seal.

You dont o-ring both. You normally run a receiving groove in the head or block and put the o-ring in one or the other. You should run steel if you have a receiving groove because copper is soft and will have a hard time crushing a MLS head gasket into a receiving groove.

Some machine shops can so this but it is normally done by a specialty shop.

 

Anyone ever see a P0011 code after their 2.4 build?

 

On an Evo 8 that should be a cam sensor code which suggests you just need to check your cam installation and or cam sensor.

On an Evo 9 its MIVEC slow to respond which usually suggests a clogged feed solenoid or low oil pressure.

As for seeing it after a 2.4L build, not so much. But it is something you can see after a motor build for different reasons which all involve checking a bunch of things. Could be caused by something as simple as assembly lube or something more of a pain in the ***. Just gonna have to run down the list.

 

It's a 9. I'm wondering if it has something to do with non modifying the mivec cam gear.

 

By which you mean... having one adjustable cam gear and the stock MIVEC cam gear? That's normal.

There's another code that would be thrown if for example the MIVEC cam was advanced. So your looking at either it being retarded or just slow to activate. If it threw the code early on start up of the build maybe its just related to thick lube, or a dry solenoid or something simple like that. If everything looks copacetic, you may just need to clear the code and let the motor get some run time and it will fix its self. If your past all that, then you might need to do some more digging.

Besides the timing, cam sensor and solenoid, where did you get your oil feed from on the block? Have you checked to see if maybe you smashed or crimped the line when installing the motor?

 

Sorry, I meant to say "not* modifying the mivec gear". I thought I've read that if you don't it doesn't have the full range of motion due to the taller block.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-cam-gear.html

 

All the 2.4L MIVEC builds I've dealt with were fine with the stock intake cam gear and adjustable exhaust cam gear.

I have a JohnBradley modded cam gear on a 2.4L MIVEC motor, but that motor hasn't left the stand yet so I haven't had the chance to witness the advantages for my self.

 

Hey gus I got a question for the 2.4 stock frame turbo guys. I'm almost done putting together my new 2.4/ix turbo set up. But I can't get the oem drain line to line up with my oil pan. I figured the difference was due to the taller deck block. What have you guys been doing to resolve this, and or can I get a drain line made from a/n fittings and lines for stock frame ??

 

I stretched mine slightly to make it fit. You can get an lines for the drain but it is not necessary.

 

Hey guys. I got a little problem going on.
2.4 block. Manley 9.5 pistons 86.5mm bore. 100mm crank. Evo 9 head. R2 cams with kiggly springs. The engine was timed correctly and turned over multiple times by hand and no resistance what so ever. I primed the engine by pumping a quart of oil into the engine with a bottle pump. Then before start up it cranked it untill it got a few psi of oil.
Upon start up. It woudnt start and threw a code for position sensor on intake side. The. It started somehow and ran on only 2 cylinders. I did a leak down and this is what it have me. Leak down was with lifters removed.

#1- leaking out the intake port from valve closest to cam gear.

#2- leaking out the intake port from valve closest to cam gear.

#3- leaking out the intake port from valve closest to cam gear.

#4- leaking out of exhaust side.

Have not pulled the head yet.

Thanks

 

How exactly did you stretch it? Did you have to twist it to make the 2 bolts line up with the holes on the oil pan properly?