Well the MISHIMOTO is full size and there was a full size Koyo the day before when I looked for the original posting. Not i mention i bought my own full size koyo and my half size koyo for my evo's for $270 shipped each. You also don't have to wait for any auction, there both BUY IT NOW, shipped next day.

Just trying to help...

To each is there own i guess, i love evo's because there so damn cheap. But the market does have room for people who have the money to spend. You can easily get swept away into spending $10k to have a built motor or you can do it your self in your garage for $1500 and get the same results. Just depends on what kind of person you are. I don't understand why people spend that kind of money much like you probably don't understand the budgets that i get away with on the things that i do.

 

I got a mitshimoto full size radiator for evo8 or 9 brand new in the box for $250 shipped. Pm me if u need it

 

You haven't windowed a block yet!

Neither have I but I inherited a disaster. Hence the 4G64...

So back on my fact-finding mission, The outlander pump requires trimming of the pump or the T-belt cover to work? Why not go with the MAP spacer plate ($25) and a Evo VIII water pump? Then it all works correctly.

I'm just looking for opinions/reasoning on this since it seems to be the only fitment issue with dropping the 4G64 in.

 

The spacer adds a gasket. So you have 2 possible places for leaks. Also, on top of buying a water pump, you have to buy a spacer and gasket. When replacing the water pump, you have to purchase and replace 2 gaskets instead of 1.

 

i need help

i cant find why everythings dies when i try to start my engine

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/in...ry-tested.html

can anyone spare a bit of free time for what is probably an electrical issue (ive already checked my grounds, and fuses with no avail or i can post it in here but theres a lot of info even though its the appropriate thread for it since im the proud owner of a 2003 galant with a full swapped evo 8 engine but its not working :.(.

 

Yeah I'm tracking all that, but if you use the spacer/Evo water pump is there any modification that has to be done for everything to fit (including timing cover)?

With the Outlander water pump, what has to be modified? The pump or the T-belt cover?

 

For the outlander pump you can run no cover, you can cut the portion around the pulley away like I did or you can make a spacer for the pulley.

 

There is a problem with the Wiseco spec sheet. I called them and requested that they update it. In the 4G64 section for the evo 4-9, they have the wrong head CC value listed. (they copy and pasted the specs for the DSM stuff) This will change your compression ratio. With the numbers I came up with, my engine is at 10.6:1 instead of 9.5:1. So much for 500 on pump.

Effin eh...

 

Lol, that would explain my engine as well

 

I called Wiseco and asked then whos going to pay for another rebuild or a different set of pistons. All I heard was crickets in the background. This is the second build I found problems with their specs.

 

What piston part numbers did you order? I ordered the K626M87.

Every compression calculator came out to 10.6:1

 

Same pistons here. But 10.6 sounds pretty high. I have ~190psi comp. I'm thinking it's more in the 9.5-9.8 range.

 

So first test drive a rocker arm snaps, jams up the cam, causes the timing belt to snap......

Internals are ok thank god.

WTF!!!!!!

 

I'll grab my part number tomorrow and see. I hope I'm at 9.5:1 and not 10.5:1

 

Rocker arms are typically not something that just break while on a test drive.

If I had to guess... either a rocker arm was not installed 100% correctly, a rocker arm was already damaged from a prior engine failure, the lifters were not bled correctly, or your have an excessive oil pressure issue thats not letting the lifters compress properly. Look into it so not to damage anything else on your next attempt. Good luck and just cause... got pics?

P.S: Theres good power to be made on high compression but heres hoping you guys got what you paid for. I know my 10:1 2.4L has +220 compression but that can only tell you so much.