3.75 degrees on each cam.

 

Can you send a pic of which way they should go? Possibly a before and after.

Just to help the person that is putting one together. If you say retard or advanced, they may not know what way that is.

 

Picture it this way (with the 4g63 belt), facing the timing belt side of the engine, the front side of the belt(exhaust side in the evo's case) is rigid, no slack. If you raise the head up (read: 4g64 block is 6mm taller) the belt has no slack, so the cams have to turn clockwise some to accomodate.

What you now need to do is turn the camshafts counter-clockwise to line back up to the timing marks.

In effect the cams end up advanced with the 4g63 belt, so you need to retard them. They end up about 1/2 tooth advanced, which equates to 3.75 degrees. Retard them 3.75 degrees and you are back in the ballpark of where they would/should be.

The proper way to do it is to degree them in based on the cam card specifications, but it's not 100% necessary.

The pictures with the AEM gears are incorrect, with the HKS they are correct.

Also, on the MIVEC cars, you will use an exhaust cam gear set up the 3.75 degree retard, and then adjust your entire MIVEC map by a global 3.75 degree retard.

 

The only downside I see with the 4G64 block is the lower amount of space between cylinders. You're going to end up having to run at least a 87mm piston after machining. In contrast, a machined 4G63 block is going to run a 85.5mm piston once machined .020" over. That's a lot more meat between cylinders with the 4g63.

 

You can order 86.5, 86.75 and 87MM pistons for the 4G64 block. If the block is in good condition, you do not need to order the largest pistons they make and have the least amount of cylinder wall to work with.

I made over 500whp with my 4g63 block at 87mm bore with no cylinder wall issues.

 

86.5mm is stock so I don't get why you mentioned that size. You aren't going to be able to run that. I'm pretty sure any reputable engine builder will tell you that the core/block will need to be bored. But that is encouraging that you ran well on 87mm pistons.

Fred

 

I agree. However, if there was no wall issues and you can get the correct piston to wall clearances without having to maching the block, I would run the 86.5 pistons. That would also depend on powers goals and what not.

 

So I just got done timing my engine...the marks on both stock camgears and aftermarket line up perfectly on my setup. Slightly confused...but oh well I suppose.

2.4 4g64 block
Cometic .051 headgasket
4g63 belt
Head has been decked before but still has plenty left
Block been decked .003"

 

Interesting. Do you have adjustable gears?

Im going to be timing mine this weekend. I wonder how its going to turn out.

 

I will have to keep an eye on this thread. If I do rebuild my car, a 2.4 is an option Im looking into, mainly cause the core is cheaper lol.

I have also heard you dont need the adjustable gear for a 9, and to just advance the cam gear and throw the 4g63 belt on.

Something that does worry me as well is the heat issue without oil squirters, also the headgasket problems and issues ive seen in the past.

Is there a for sure recommended headgasket? Ive heard PE, but then some say no, then I see some run the cometic, some say no lol.

 

I did, yes. They lined up, so I put on some stockers to confirm...and they lined up as well so I left them!

I'm totally confused...but I'll run it as is and see how it responds.

 

Definately let me know or PM me.

I forgot to order my new timing belt so I wont be timing it this weekend. I may just throw on the old one to see how it works out but it may be stretched a little so it may be inaccurate.

 

Well from my own experience, Cometic is not the way to go. Ive had a few leak. It may depend on head lift and what not but I have not had any luck with them. Even after increasing the stud torque.

Ive never had a problem with the OEM ones. Im going to use the evo 8 stock gasket and machine it out to 87mm or buy a felpro and test it out. PE does make a great gasket as well. Either way, it needs to be the correct bore.

As far as the oil squirters, I am adding them. It was around $150 to machine the block for these. Its a low cost for what could happen to a full build.

With the total for the block and machine work, I have $600 into it.

I see a few guys that make big power without them. However, they are a drag car and dont really daily drive it. I plan on auto-X and road racing so I decided to run them to keep the pistons cool.

 

2003 Outlander Waterpump is on amazon for $23.82

 

Are special pistons required for building a 2.1L 4G64? What I mean is: Do I need pistons that have the wrist pins moved up by 6mm?