I put the external crank pulley on and a screwdriver in the cylinder(archaic i know..) and rolled it to tdc by the screwdriver and checked the crank mark, which was on then. Upon that, my cams were off about two degrees so I put the camgears back on and dialed thrm back in the two degrees. I figure I'll play with them when tuning if need be.

Guess I was just blind when using the crank gear lineup or something, dunno.

 

Ok. I timed mine last night and set up a degree wheel on the cams. All the timing marks will line up. After the marks line up, I checked the cams. They were 3.4 degrees off or retarted. So with the adjustable gears, you will need to advance the cams by 3.4 degrees. I think the 3.75 was a ball park number. Advancing them would be turning them counter clockwise or towards the intake.

If you lined up the gears with the 2.0L head timing marks then it will be 7deg off total 3.5 each side. So 3.4 was close with the degree wheel.

 

I still have stock ignition. Will I need COP for my 2.4LR HTA3582r build? If so CDI or non-CDI. also its an e85 car. Can I do initial motor break in on e85? I'm now worried about my 416LPH Wally fuel pump. I hope it can support HP numbers from the new motor. I'm not sure what a 2.4 is gonna put down on e85 with an HTA3582r

 

I would definately upgrade the ignition. I know a ton of members here run the spooling up COP. It is a great kit. I dont see why you cant do initial break in on e85 as long as you have a solid tune to do daily driving and run some boost to seat the rings. The fuel pump should be fine. Im running the 325lph deachwerks. You may need a double if you are looking to get more than 650hp

 

Correct, but my head and block have both been shaved a bit, so that effects it as well for me.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm gonna pick up a spoolinup cop.

 

"The stock MD332035 is 0.028" uncompressed, which means anything larger than an S1 (tops) is going to run the risk of piston to valve contact. We recommend a 0.042+ and normally run an 0.051" thickness."

Just came across this post by John Bradley about a 2.4L HG on a 2.4L build. Anyone else hear this before?

 

"We run an 87mm Cometic 0.051 in our motors." John Bradley

Nevermind, this is the HG I will be running also.

 

When are you measuring the thickness? Its .030" compressed for evo 8 and .040" for evo 9 OEM ones.

 

O-ring or not o-ring block?

 

Oil squirters or no squirters?

 

I did not o-ring the block. I did add the oil squirters.

 

Are there any tricks on the head gasket? I keep reading blown HG issues on 2.4 builds and people in general are terrified about HG issues on a 2.4 build. I'm kind of paranoid now. If this thing blows a HG after I put a new motor in it ill prob burn it to the ground. My machine shop sounds very confident in the job and so does the engine builder. He's never done a 2.4 Evo build though.

 

I bought Cometic HG 87mm for my built (4g64 2.1 LR), I donīt finish my project but I think I will have not problem with that HG... You only need to use a good set of head studs and resurface the head and block.

 

Well that's my plan. L19 head studs, cometic 87mm and decked block with resurfaced head. Hopefully she holds up.