Just found out today my motor is toast. I'll be building a 2.4LR now. I've found a 4G64 bare block at a local junkyard for $100 and am in the process of buying a crankshaft for around $250. I'll def be watching this thread VERY closely.

 

It's so tempting to rebuild my car with a 2.4LR. Is anybody else worried about running this motor in your weekend toy/daily driver without oil squirters? That's my biggest concern, I know they can be machined to fit, but by the time you get squirters and pay for machining, you could have the 4g63 block.

 

There is a guy who road races a very fast eclipse with a 2.4 block and no squirters. I'll have to try to find his name again..

 

Is it the black 2g?

 

What's the consensus on which head gasket to use?

 

I think a lot are using a stock evo 8/9 gasket(whatever head you run, get the matching model gasket), and bore it out at the cylinders.

Is this something people are doing themselves, or is there something at a machine shop that can do this?

 

What about balance shaft delete? Is everyone deleting the balance shaft? If with which kit? $200 for AMS seems high but STM $55 kit seems a bit cheap.

 

I ended up using my 8 Stock gasket. Had it machined with the block at the shop when i dropped it off.

The Felpro 4G64 will work as well.

 

I deleted mine. Spun the bearings for the rear and I am running the AMS one.

If you have a local machine shop, you can take yours in and have it machined down.

I am going ith the AMS one because it supports the oil pump. If you use the stub shaft kit, this may cause the oil pump to bind and seize.

 

If you are making a 2.1L 4G64, you will need to same pistons, 2.0L crank and 156MM rods.

You only need those pistons with the wrist pins moved up by 6mm if you run the 4G63 block, 4G63 crank, and 156MM rods. This will make a 2.1 LR (long rod)

 

i have a 3g eclipse piston went flew out block a couple of days ago.looking to fully built a 64 and put a kia dohc head evo heads to expensive.so wat are the diffence in 2.1 and 2.4 with a 64 block.im confused on wat rods to use i see manley sells rods (h-beam or i-beam),piston and 100mm crank.

 

Ok so I paid for my block and crank today. I spoke to my machine shop yesterday. I'm going to have it bored .020 over, honed and decked and have the crank balanced. I spoke to MAP yesterday on all the parts needed for a LR setup. I have an HTA3582r on e85, will normal ARP studs work or do I need the L19 studs? I'm going with the cometic 4G64 HG and I think we're going to try to use my EVO 8 Gates Kevlar timing belt. I'm going to pick up a 4G64 timing belt too just in case. Will I need the 4G64 timing belt tensioner? Any other recommendations from the group?

 

I've never used anything but standard arp's, but then again Ive never made over 600whp.

The '63 belt will be just fine, use it.

All other parts will be from the '63 engine aside from the water pump.

Dont forget cam gears.

 

It depends on how much boost you are going to run. Ive had the L19s for a while with no issues. I figured I would install them since I am also running e85 and 34psi or so.

All the timing components are the same. I carried over all my evo 4g63 timing gears, pulleys, and 4g63 belt. Im using the OEM evo 9 kevlar belt. I also carried over the oil pump and balance shaft. It all bolts up. The only difference I could find between the 2 block is the deck height and water pump.

 

Soo I timed my engine last night and all the timing marks line up perfectly. I used the 63 belt with no issues. I guess I will see how it runs. I also turned it 50 times to make sure that nothing would hit.