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How to build a 4G64 for an EVO 8/9

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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 05:17 AM
  #166  
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From: michigan
Originally Posted by bigdnno98
Would you guys say a fluid damper is necessary?
Yes. This will help absorb vibration from your engine. This will save some bearing wear as well. It also helps when you delete the balance shafts and you dont feel a lot of feedback when driving and idling.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 11:49 AM
  #167  
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Well.... I'm pretty tapped out after this build and didn't plan in $300 for a fluid damper and $100 for a new battery. Battery is a necessity. I guess the fluid damper will just have to wait.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 11:51 AM
  #168  
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From: Santa Tecla
Hello guys! I have ready my 2.1 4g64 destroke. Im ready to start the engine but I have a doubt about the timing. I usr stock cam gears. That will be a problem? I need adjustable cam gears?
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 12:01 PM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by Mauricio Evo IV
Hello guys! I have ready my 2.1 4g64 destroke. Im ready to start the engine but I have a doubt about the timing. I usr stock cam gears. That will be a problem? I need adjustable cam gears?

You will still need to degree the cams in, being that the 4G64 block is 6mm taller than the 4G63, it throws the geometry off.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 12:16 PM
  #170  
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Ok so on this fluid damper? I thought the oem balancer was a fluid damper? Which one do you guys recommend?
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 12:41 PM
  #171  
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From: michigan
The OEM one is a 2 piece design with rubber between the 2 rings. This helps absorb vibrations to an extent. On our built motors where the vibration, rotational mass, displacement, flywheel/clutch have all changed rotational mass, the stock damper is not sufficient enough to help reduce and balance the vibration. It was only designed for stock use.

Below is from the fluidampr website.

Performance parts related to the rotating assembly, such as rods, pistons, crank, flywheel/flexplate usually changes both torsional vibration magnitude and frequency. A stock harmonic balancer typically is only tuned for a 50hz peak variance. Move beyond its parameters and it may leave your critical engine components unprotected when torsional vibration is at its peak.

Due to the countless combinations of performance upgrades the simplest and more effective solution is to install a Fluidampr performance damper. By design, Fluidampr protects across a broad frequency and can become more effective as magnitude increases. The earlier a Fluidamper performance damper is installed, the more you’ll benefit from the protection, performance and durability in the long run.

In other words, they are designed to assist and counter balance torsional vibration.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 03:33 PM
  #172  
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Well I'm seriously considering it now. Prob gonna delay delivery of my car a few days.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 03:53 PM
  #173  
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Well motor is ready in the car. Looks like ill have to install it myself with the motor already in the car. I wish I had read something about this before. Well for the next guy reading this for his 2.4 build..... There you go.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 03:58 PM
  #174  
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From: Santa Tecla
Originally Posted by 92 GSR-4
You will still need to degree the cams in, being that the 4G64 block is 6mm taller than the 4G63, it throws the geometry off.
I know the 4g64 is taller than 4g63. So theres other eay to set timing without using adjustable cam gears?
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 04:54 PM
  #175  
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From: Virginia
The dampner is easy to install with the engine in the car. Takes about 15 minutes including jacking up the car. No sweat there. And it will be fine until you can get it on there, it's main purpose is longevity of the engine; which, let's face it we are building motors to lean on, so they're not going to last forever anyway.

If no cam gears you can either set the timing half a tooth advanced, or half a tooth retarded. Not optimum, but it would work, just don't expect perfect power.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 05:05 PM
  #176  
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From: Jamaica
Originally Posted by evolve_VIII

All the timing marks will line up. After the marks line up, I checked the cams. They were 3.4 degrees off or retarted. So with the adjustable gears, you will need to advance the cams by 3.4 degrees. I think the 3.75 was a ball park number. Advancing them would be turning them counter clockwise or towards the intake.
Just a quick correction: If the timing marks line up then you wouldn't need to adjust the gears. You need to adjust them because they don't line up. Also turning the cam counter clockwise is actually retarding, not advancing.
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 10:26 AM
  #177  
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From: Auburn, AL
Originally Posted by Mauricio Evo IV
I know the 4g64 is taller than 4g63. So theres other eay to set timing without using adjustable cam gears?

Personally, I never time a motor without degreeing the cams anyway. But yeah, you can set the motor up with stock gears, line up all the marks, and be on your way, but the motor will be almost 4* off. Make sure you rotate that **** by hand before you start the motor.
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 08:45 AM
  #178  
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From: Santa Tecla
Originally Posted by 92 GSR-4
Personally, I never time a motor without degreeing the cams anyway. But yeah, you can set the motor up with stock gears, line up all the marks, and be on your way, but the motor will be almost 4* off. Make sure you rotate that **** by hand before you start the motor.
Nice thanx man! I will start the engine wuth stock cam gears. After beake in I will install adjustable cam gears for tune and get the most power.
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 08:52 AM
  #179  
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From: Orlando
Im in the process of builting a 2.4 4g64 for my evo 8, anyone know if i can use a 2.0 crank for the 4g64 block???? Pm me
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 11:27 AM
  #180  
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Yes you can. It'll make a 2.1L.
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