Currently my cars suspension consists bilstein hd struts with swift spec r lowering springs...that's it. how will adding Coilovers, sway bars, and other various suspension enhancements not make it any faster around a track or road course?!

 

Modified Magazines evo 8 is at our shop from california for a CBRD longblock build and Ball bearing Full

cb

 

Thats it...I'M SOLD

 

You can certainly hit those kinds of numbers of a BBK-Full, but you won't on a stock block, particularly road raced for long. With the kinds of back pressure the Full will generate at 30 psi at WOT for full laps, that's just asking for problems.

It's obviously going to depend on the course, and driving ability, along with the rest of the mods on the car, but I think the sweet spot for the BBK-Full is 26-27 psi on a stock block with all applicable bolt-ons. That will net you 400-450 whp on pump gas depending on dyno and how aggressive your tune is. I ran up to 27 psi on pump gas for the last year with the BBK-Full for 20-25 min sessions of WOT with no problems.

Doing well in competition is going to mean you need a well rounded car with upgraded suspension, drivetrain, etc. Lots of great information on prepping a car for road racing in the Motorsports Forum, but do some research before you invest. Quality coilovers are a hugely important choice, and you don't want to buy something you will regret and end up having to replace later. Chassis bracing is a waste of money largely imo unless you are welding in the bracing. Sways can be useful but are less important than upgrading the rear diff, or at least doing a plate swap.

Anyway, don't want to go too far off topic, but the BBK-Full is ideal for what you are looking for. Chad can show some overlays to determine if the ball bearing variant is worth it for you. I was perfectly happy with the journal bearing version of the turbo myself, but I will say transient response on the 3B is pretty fantastic.

 

My car recently made 519 with CBRD BBK-BB-B easily on 29psi and E85. Because I am still on stock bock (which has 145K miles on it), we turned it down to 24 psi still yielding 470whp/400wtq. This is also my DD.

I love the turbo...NO, I repeat NO surge, sounds badass, hits hard and early. This turbo has more room to.

 

Thanks for all the advice man, much appreciated. The main reasoning for wanting to go for sway bars and bolt on chassis bracing is just to stiffen it up a little. Its still gonna be used on the street for a while. No full race car just yet. Just trying to upgrade the power, handling, and aero all within balance of one another.

 

Those are good numbers man. I'll be looking for your car when crusing around Gilbert!

 

Hehe, no problem. I didn't intend to have a caged race car when I started modding my car either. I even bought the Cusco chassis bracing myself, and ended up caging the car before installing it. I got bit by the track bug HARD.

 

That's what I'm trying to avoid right now lol. Don't get me wrong I would love to build a fully built race car...but unfortunately I can't. Maybe someday for now I'll just do a little at a time and just have fun with it.

 

• cusco chassis bracing - $1300 - extra weight, will slow you down
• fortune auto coilovers - $1200 - stick with Bilstein HDs and lowering springs,
• sway bars - $400? - to what end? are you trying to decrease rear grip or front grip or are you trying to lower the body roll without going to stiffer springs?
• endlinks - $250? - stock endlinks are pretty good, why do you want to change these? Most aftermarket sway bars have different connection points to adjust preload already. I could see an individual aftermarket endlink on each front and rear stock swaybar to adjust preload

 

I'm just trying to eliminate body roll so when I corner, I corner flat. I figured I would upgrade to stronger aftermarket stuff seeing as the OEM stuff will eventually wear out. I'd rather save the OEM stuff while I can instead of destroying it. Thats just me though. But I do get what you're saying.

 

All I can say from here on out is I've made up my mind on turbo choice. Big thanks to EVOlutionary for the write-up, blackenedwings for the advice, and CBRD for the support! Ball Bearing BBK Full (Ported) it is!

 

 

EVOlutionary's car was a blast to drive that's for sure. We did One Lap of America in his stock block BBK evo.

Maybe I'll see you at the Modified Shootout next year if they will let me compete 2 years back to back.

 

+100. for road course events where the car will see more than a few minutes of wot, turbine backpressure needs to be kept low to keep piston, exhaust valve, and head temps reasonable. the bbk full is a super responsive turbo, but getting more than 430 whp out of it will result in significant backpressure.

don't overlook supporting mods for maximizing responsiveness. i picked up a significant increase in responsiveness with an fmic and uicp upgrade. at 4000+ rpm with my current setup, my bbk full spools pretty much instantly, and just as importantly imho is that boost (i.e power delivery) can be modulated well with throttle position. the stock 9 turbo had a tendency to shoot right up to full boost at part throttle which was annoying for controlling grip.

i've got a new jb hta green that i've been meaning to install in a quest for another 40-50 whp without significantly sacrificing the things that make the bbk full great. maybe i'll get it done in the next few weeks and report back.