I did the plate switch on my rear diff a couple weeks ago. Right away I noticed it clicking really loud. I searched a little a read it was suppose to do that but this is really loud and noticed itdoes our more on the left side. The right side u can hear but it's quieter. Kind of reminds me busted cv joint but I don't think we could of damaged the axles that easy. Also my inner and outer bushings are bad in the rear lower control arms so I'm not sure I'd that could be it either. Could I possibly messed something in the diff up since it so much more pronounced on one side?

 

I had mine built by tre with the 12 plate upgrade and mine sounds like it's binding also...everyone says it's normal in slow turns. Let it break in and report back.

 

I didnt rebuild it though. I just flipped the factory plates around to the correct order. Also the other thing that has sprung up i sometimes get a shudder when i go really slow around a corner. Like cruising in a gas station parking lot slow. Oh and it only starts making noise after the fluid has been warmed up and not when i first go to drive it. The studder kinda reminds me of my buddys bmw when his lsd was going bad and the inside wheel would lock up under turns but mines not locking up.

 

What LSD fluid are you using? Using Diaqueen will quiet it down if you are using Redline or another non approved fluid.

 

Its diaqueen and thats been used its whole life. The clicking wouldnt bother me so much but its so much more pronounced on one side than the other. What does a broken plate sound like?

 

Replace those bushings before messing with the diff again. Use OEM spherical ones to replace the worn spherical. Any thing not OEM spherical use ES or Whiteline..

 

Mine does the same thing. It may not be louder on one side so much as you can hear it better on that side. You can understand why they put the plates in the way they did now. It gets worse when hotter, and makes clanking noises around slow, sharp turns. Did mine three years ago and it's still making the sound, and it works fine.

 

The answers up top are correct, just the LSD working. If it really bothers you go buy some LSD additive at any parts store and add a little more---that will quiet it back down as it will induce slip where you are locking up. Put a little in at a time until you get what you want.

 

Interestingly my RS diff did this when I installed it but after I completely shattered my transfer case and replaced it with a new one it no longer makes any noise. Weird.

 

yeah i got some low mile used oem arms going in soon. i didnt plan on messing with the diff until i got those arms in. as the one guy said it literally sounds like its eating itself at times and it just makes me nervous. yeah i can completely see why they have them put in wrong from the factory.

 

I have all the shuddering and clicking too....meaning it's doing it's job.

 

Ya, this is correct.

I spoke to Jon at TRE about this. He basically stated how our mechanical diffs are noiser than say, a helical style.

Now you folks know why Mitsu engineers assembled them like they did for the USA market. They didn't do it wrong at all, in fact they did it correctly, so they wouldn't get customer complaints about noisy diffs.