Trouble getting into gears when car is moving?
Trouble getting into gears when car is moving?
When the engine is off or I'm at a complete stop shifting through the gears is pretty smooth. However, when I'm moving it's difficult to get into gears or in some cases can't even get it into certain gears.
It's gotten to the point where I am skipping over 2nd because I usually get locked out of it anyway.
Is this a sign of a bad pressure plate?
It's gotten to the point where I am skipping over 2nd because I usually get locked out of it anyway.
Is this a sign of a bad pressure plate?
Evolved Member
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,288
Likes: 1
From: JacksonvilleNorth Carolina/Central Florida
I would try adjusting the clutch first, when temperatures change sometimes it needs to be adjusted. When I first came to North Carolina from California I thought something was wrong with my transmission, but adjusted the clutch pedal and it was fine
I wonder if good mechanics can diagnose a bad shift fork without dropping the tranny first?
I already have tried adjusting my clutch. Maybe I need to adjust it further out?
Based on the 'symptoms' I'm reading about broken shift forks this definitely seems like it could be my issue. Or a worn shifter linkage.
I wonder if good mechanics can diagnose a bad shift fork without dropping the tranny first?
I already have tried adjusting my clutch. Maybe I need to adjust it further out?
I wonder if good mechanics can diagnose a bad shift fork without dropping the tranny first?
I already have tried adjusting my clutch. Maybe I need to adjust it further out?
i've rebuilt a few transmissions in my day... i've never seen a trans that can shift into 1st but not 2nd and have a broken shift fork... it sounds like your syncros are on the way out... its normally associated with a grind when it finally gets into gear...
if you rev match can you shift?
also check to see if your clutch is dragging... pack on a slight decline... put it in first.... and as you roll forward at 1-2mph hit the rev limiter.... not the launch limiter but the actuall 8-9k rev limit... the car shouldn't lurch forward any faster then it was... if it does then your clutch is dragging
if you rev match can you shift?
also check to see if your clutch is dragging... pack on a slight decline... put it in first.... and as you roll forward at 1-2mph hit the rev limiter.... not the launch limiter but the actuall 8-9k rev limit... the car shouldn't lurch forward any faster then it was... if it does then your clutch is dragging
Trending Topics
i've rebuilt a few transmissions in my day... i've never seen a trans that can shift into 1st but not 2nd and have a broken shift fork... it sounds like your syncros are on the way out... its normally associated with a grind when it finally gets into gear...
if you rev match can you shift?
also check to see if your clutch is dragging... pack on a slight decline... put it in first.... and as you roll forward at 1-2mph hit the rev limiter.... not the launch limiter but the actuall 8-9k rev limit... the car shouldn't lurch forward any faster then it was... if it does then your clutch is dragging
if you rev match can you shift?
also check to see if your clutch is dragging... pack on a slight decline... put it in first.... and as you roll forward at 1-2mph hit the rev limiter.... not the launch limiter but the actuall 8-9k rev limit... the car shouldn't lurch forward any faster then it was... if it does then your clutch is dragging
Can that test be performed if I'm using stock ecu?
I changed out my cable bushings a few months ago, so I don't think that's the issue.
Yes it can, but you'll need to disable to launch limiter
Bleed your clutch line and adjust your pedal. It's super easy and makes a HUGE difference in shifting. Adjust the rod out one turn at a time until you can't push the slave cylinder in by hand, then come back a half turn. Check the slave cylinder. If you can push it in, tighten the nut and enjoy.
It's all been said already but here are the simple things you can do that might fix or help your problem. Keep in mind I was having a very similar situation to you (though not as bad I don't think).
1. Bleed clutch.
2. Adjust clutch pedal (search YouTube for the jacks transmissions method).
3. Change transmission fluid (I recommend Motul Gear 300).
Post back when you have tried these. If you change the trans fluid it might take a little while for you to notice any improvement).
1. Bleed clutch.
2. Adjust clutch pedal (search YouTube for the jacks transmissions method).
3. Change transmission fluid (I recommend Motul Gear 300).
Post back when you have tried these. If you change the trans fluid it might take a little while for you to notice any improvement).
It's all been said already but here are the simple things you can do that might fix or help your problem. Keep in mind I was having a very similar situation to you (though not as bad I don't think).
1. Bleed clutch.
2. Adjust clutch pedal (search YouTube for the jacks transmissions method).
3. Change transmission fluid (I recommend Motul Gear 300).
Post back when you have tried these. If you change the trans fluid it might take a little while for you to notice any improvement).
1. Bleed clutch.
2. Adjust clutch pedal (search YouTube for the jacks transmissions method).
3. Change transmission fluid (I recommend Motul Gear 300).
Post back when you have tried these. If you change the trans fluid it might take a little while for you to notice any improvement).
- I bled my clutch a few months ago with a speed bleeder and I'm pretty sure I bled it till there were no more air bubbles.. Maybe I have to do it again?
- My problem is I have been adjusting it without feeling the slave cylinder. Do I adjust it, jack it up and feel slave cylinder, repeat?
- I changed my transmission fluid a couple of months ago with the redline cocktail. I'm beginning to think I may have slightly underfilled it because my garage is a on slight incline?
I currently have 25k on the car, but these issues have forced me to do the 30k fluids changes now. I ordered amsoil for my trans, Diaqueen LSD Fluid for transfer case and rear diff, and Diamond ATF SP III for my ACD. I didn't look into what else has to be changed, but I may take it to the dealer for the other stuff because I don't know if I trust myself changing belts.
I'm going to change out all the fluids and adjust the clutch properly, and hopefully that resolves the issues I'm having... If that doesn't work I'm going to have to find a reputable evo shop in the Tristate Area because I want to enjoy my car this summer.
Last edited by Kreeker; Mar 25, 2014 at 04:40 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
02modlanceroz
Evo X Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
11
Nov 15, 2016 08:34 PM
tsidrift1
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
7
Aug 18, 2011 07:14 PM



