Downpipe thread
Thanks for the pics Dan!
Wow... just from the difference in the wastegate side I could tell the difference between the DSM and EVO O2 housings... helluva difference..
yeah, I agree. after seeing the pics posted by Dan @ MAch V, I don't see the point.
thanks for both your responses
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
Ya know, we pulled our 02 housing off thinking there were going to be big gains from porting it. There is so little you can do with it that it isn't worth messing with. That is why we don't advertise a porting service for the stock EVO turbo components, they are just too good to take money from you guys for no gains.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
thanks for both your responses
Thanks guys. That's reassuring. Now I'm thinking I'll go with a full Buschur turbo-back with high-flow cat and magnaflow muffler. That or I'm going to have to get a full Buschur staging (by the way, I've never even talked to David or had anything to do with Buschur...nor have I any loyalties there...just sharing thoughts that are truly my own). It's hard to figure on spending all the money on the exhaust and not just going in on a staged package because the exhaust is included and I'll save some dough on the whole shebang. Then the problem becomes: How can I stop before stage 3? Really. I am fighting this dilemma and really like a lot of other manufacturer's parts (I think the exhaust is as good as it gets, though...maybe there's something truly better, but I don't really see it). But when all is said and done, it's just easier and probably more economical to do the whole thing with a system that has been already worked out. It's just so hard to stop at one of the earlier stages with no cams, etc. UUUuuuuggghhhh!!!
Whatever.
Whatever.
Originally Posted by MyCre8n=Evlshn
Thanks guys. That's reassuring. Now I'm thinking I'll go with a full Buschur turbo-back with high-flow cat and magnaflow muffler. That or I'm going to have to get a full Buschur staging (by the way, I've never even talked to David or had anything to do with Buschur...nor have I any loyalties there...just sharing thoughts that are truly my own). It's hard to figure on spending all the money on the exhaust and not just going in on a staged package because the exhaust is included and I'll save some dough on the whole shebang. Then the problem becomes: How can I stop before stage 3? Really. I am fighting this dilemma and really like a lot of other manufacturer's parts (I think the exhaust is as good as it gets, though...maybe there's something truly better, but I don't really see it). But when all is said and done, it's just easier and probably more economical to do the whole thing with a system that has been already worked out. It's just so hard to stop at one of the earlier stages with no cams, etc. UUUuuuuggghhhh!!!
Whatever.
Whatever.
i have a question that prolly has to do with me not knowing too much of hte individual manufacturer's specs. are there some dps in the list that require you to run vta wastegates? i didn't look that carefully but it seems that some are o2 elim and they don't have a waste gate rejoining section. just a thot.
Originally Posted by trinydex
i have a question that prolly has to do with me not knowing too much of hte individual manufacturer's specs. are there some dps in the list that require you to run vta wastegates? i didn't look that carefully but it seems that some are o2 elim and they don't have a waste gate rejoining section. just a thot.
I did some porting and polishing of the factory EVO O2 housing. It turned out very nice. I also wrapped my Helix downpipe. Check it out and let me know what you guys think: http://users2.ev1.net/~subaru/evo_web/evo_exhaust.htm
My personal opinion only:
1. It increase exhaust gas velocity by maintaining heat.
2. It keeps the CAT hotter and should make the check engine light stay away, at least the "CAT inefficiency" code.
3. It should reduce the heat transfered into the oil pan due to the close proximity to the downpipe.
4. It makes it have a less "ringy" sound.
1. It increase exhaust gas velocity by maintaining heat.
2. It keeps the CAT hotter and should make the check engine light stay away, at least the "CAT inefficiency" code.
3. It should reduce the heat transfered into the oil pan due to the close proximity to the downpipe.
4. It makes it have a less "ringy" sound.
Originally Posted by Guack007
Hey David,
Thnx for trying to respond to my question but you didn't read it correctly. I never asked about running a 2.5 in cat. I asked if it was impossible to run a 2.75in dp into a 3in highflow cat.
Thnx for trying to respond to my question but you didn't read it correctly. I never asked about running a 2.5 in cat. I asked if it was impossible to run a 2.75in dp into a 3in highflow cat.
Just installed my Helix 3" downpipe. I don't know if it is Version1 or 2 since I bought it used, but it clears the tie bars just fine. It is awfully close to the oil pain though. I might have to get some sort of heat sheild to stick on there, or wrap the downpipe. Either way, I'm happy as is!
UR 3" High Flow cat is in also, now I just gotta get the reducer end chopped off my exhaust and reweld a 3" pipe and flange and I'll have a 3" turboback.
UR 3" High Flow cat is in also, now I just gotta get the reducer end chopped off my exhaust and reweld a 3" pipe and flange and I'll have a 3" turboback.
We are about to release our 76mm (3.0") OD ceramic coated Exhale DP for those of you running larger/modified turbos or bigger O2 sensor housings.
After 21... yes twenty one prototypes, we have finally designed a 3" dp that truly clears every conceivable obstacle underneath the EVO. Both lower tie bars as well as the arched subframe above. Boxed section hangers with welded nuts just like stock and the outlet flange is positioned exactly where the stock one exits.
No compromises. True plug 'n play performance and reliability!
Look for the WORKS 76mm Exhale DP in about 4 weeks and the WORKS cast O2 sensor housing with 76mm outlet in about VIII (8) weeks.
After 21... yes twenty one prototypes, we have finally designed a 3" dp that truly clears every conceivable obstacle underneath the EVO. Both lower tie bars as well as the arched subframe above. Boxed section hangers with welded nuts just like stock and the outlet flange is positioned exactly where the stock one exits.
No compromises. True plug 'n play performance and reliability!
Look for the WORKS 76mm Exhale DP in about 4 weeks and the WORKS cast O2 sensor housing with 76mm outlet in about VIII (8) weeks.
here is a educated question.....
the HKS downpipes that vendors supply... Are they 65mm or 70mm????? HKS USA has both and the 70mm is $345 what i see vendors selling it for.... the 65mm is $445...
11999-KM002 MITSUBISHI Lancer Evolution 2003-2004 2.0 Turbo ; For EVO Set-up Kit ONLY (14020-AM002) 70mm $345.00
3306-SM002 MITSUBISHI Lancer Evolution 2003-2004 2.0 Turbo ; Polished Stainless Steel 65mm $445.00
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=661&rsku=5921
the HKS downpipes that vendors supply... Are they 65mm or 70mm????? HKS USA has both and the 70mm is $345 what i see vendors selling it for.... the 65mm is $445...
11999-KM002 MITSUBISHI Lancer Evolution 2003-2004 2.0 Turbo ; For EVO Set-up Kit ONLY (14020-AM002) 70mm $345.00
3306-SM002 MITSUBISHI Lancer Evolution 2003-2004 2.0 Turbo ; Polished Stainless Steel 65mm $445.00
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=661&rsku=5921
We have a bolt in downpipe that is CNC mandrel bent stainless steel, absolutely clears everything with extra room to spare. It is a full 3" downpipe and can be ordered for a slip fit or flanged to bolt to anyone else's cat, offroad pipe or whatever. Converting this to MM you could call it 75 mm or as I just saw 76 mm, both work out to 3" and 3.04". Whatever.
The downpipe is $275 unflanged for our complete system or $305 flanged. Forget the mild steel, aluminized or whatever materials you will see, even if coated they are going to rust in short time. Get stainless.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
The downpipe is $275 unflanged for our complete system or $305 flanged. Forget the mild steel, aluminized or whatever materials you will see, even if coated they are going to rust in short time. Get stainless.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com


