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So the mini air regulator arrived today and it works like a champ. I quickly realized that even with the regulator all the way open it was not enough to compensate and keep the engine running when I clicked "Speed Adjustment Screw Mode" in EVOSCAN. I ended up setting the air regulator to about 1/3 of its flow and then used the throttle stop to get the RPM around 950 when "Speed Adjustment Screw Mode" was activated. I then locked in the throttle stop and adjusted the TPS to 13.33% and used the mini air regulator to make an incremental change. Funny, I've never played around with this feature in EVOSCAN and it took a long time to finally get the idle steps down and ISCV Demand down from 24% to ~8%. I had to blip the throttle about every 5 minutes for the ISCV Demand to lower again and it still has to update again since idle was slightly over 1000rpm, but all and all I'm happy. I hope this resolves some of the small idle crap I see from time to time. Here is a good link to how to adjust the throttle using this EVOSCAN feature.
Thanks and that mod really helped. I pretty much have it dialed-in in terms of trims, but will be working out some additional bugs with the setup.
The FB 70mm TB doesn't have a BISS screw and I don't want to use the throttle stop to lower ISCV Demand, which is about 25-30% from memory (62 steps with AC Off). I've ordered a mini air regulator (meter in) that will screw into the intake manifold via 1/8" NPT port and connect to another 1/8" NPT port on the intercooler pipe. It will act just like the BISS and allow for an adjustable amount of air to enter the intake to hopefully lower ISCV Demand.
NTK sensor already took a dump after 3 weeks and occasionally just freezes at 0V or 1V, which makes the setup go lean or rich and subsequently throws the O2 code. I'm trying to get MrFred's Closed Loop Wideband control to work, but I can't get it to turn on. I'll post in that thread if any one can share the Tephra V7 settings to make sure I have the correct values.
The air straightener material arrived today from overseas so I'll get that updated in the MAF and provide some pics.
It is a big change being on MAF because the car no longer hesitates in the morning when driving immediately after a cold start. Anything that brings the car back to its stock'ish feel make the car more tolerable to drive.
I have used those mini regulators before so I will be amused to see it work as a biss screw on an Evo.
Edit . Didn't see you had it done already.
drill it out?
I always thought about using a check valve right on the manifold to let air in one way and keep boost in..
I don't know what you mean by "drill it out?"
The air regulator in the link is exactly the same except it is nickel coated and twice as expensive. You can certainly just add a valve to the intake to leak air as suggested if you are running SD, but it needs to be a "meter in" regulator because they have a one way check valve. Because I run MAF that is not ideal since it would put un-metered air into the system so I just connected it to a port on the upper intercooler piping. It works exactly like the BISS so a very cheap and easy way to add that capability if you have an aftermarket TB with no BISS.
BTW, did you ever get the closed loop AFR to work? I saw in that thread you had the exact problem I am having.
The stock MAF screen already took a dump so constraining it around the edges with adhesive is likely required. Weird how it twisted the screen and collapsed the cells to do it so unsure what causes it to want to twist. It also blew the top of the foam filter off despite my slightly angling the recirculation tube towards the compressor inlet. I went ahead and bonded the larger MAF screen to the housing so it will be ready to go once it dries and hopefully doesn't fail again. Not sure if I want to run another foam filter, but perhaps it failed due to it being so dang old.
I've ridden dirt bikes across 52 countries in the worst environmental conditions imaginable. I will never use anything but an oiled foam filter. They are phenomenal at filtering, the worse it gets the better they work. K&N, etc. pleated filters flow dirt really well.
I've ridden dirt bikes across 52 countries in the worst environmental conditions imaginable. I will never use anything but an oiled foam filter. They are phenomenal at filtering, the worse it gets the better they work. K&N, etc. pleated filters flow dirt really well.
only evo X runs SD/MAF combo... earlier ones are MAF only. EUDM evos dont even have a map sensor.
The reason I switched to SD is because big cams and fast spooling turbo wanted to mess with my MAF and it would not idle with MAF and S2 cams/hks 7460 kai turbo.
Sudden stall on decel I also experienced with SD but solved by adjusting the table that turns fuel on on decel. Problem was compounded by a light flywheel.
Yeah, my SD setup doesnt like short cold starts either.
I think I got the cold start issue figured out if you want to send me a log via PM. I was forced to temporarily go back to the SD tune until the new intake filter arrives so I was able to compare my cold start on MAF (works well) to the cold start on SD (car stumbles) to understand the differences. When I say "cold start" I'm not referring to starting the car when its cold, but how the car drives when it is cold.
Got the new MAF screen bonded into place so I am only waiting on the new intake filter to arrive. I opted to use a tradition filter vs the foam filter, which should arrive later this week. https://greenfilter.com/store/2311
I think I got the cold start issue figured out if you want to send me a log via PM. I was forced to temporarily go back to the SD tune until the new intake filter arrives so I was able to compare my cold start on MAF (works well) to the cold start on SD (car stumbles) to understand the differences. When I say "cold start" I'm not referring to starting the car when its cold, but how the car drives when it is cold.
the only issue we have is that throttle enrichment on idle looks too high when it is cold...
The new IACV arrived yesterday from PartsGeek for $225 shipped. I spent about 1hr trying to track down the OEM supplier for the IACV so I didn't have to pay $400 from Mitsubishi. The manufacturer of the IACV for Mitsu is Mikuni so after searching their part numbers I believe I found the OEM IACV at almost half the price. I'll compare the part numbers stamped on my OEM IACV, but the 1A stamp and the external spring indicate it is the EVO IX valve.
The new Green filter arrived today along with a fresh set of plugs and a new BOV dump tube for the MAF setup. Unfortunately, Green Filter incorrectly tagged the filter so I received a similar looking filter, but with a 4.0" inlet diameter vs the 4.5" inlet diameter I needed. Looks like I'll be running the SD tune a few more days, but at least I swapped in the new plugs and the new BOV dump tube.
