The PCV details can be found starting at the link below and everything is explained.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l#post11908671

Regarding the MAF table, I have not touched any boost tuning as I've only been playing around with the MAF table below ~500Hz (closed loop) to get the LTFT values optimized based on trying to keep STFT within +/- 5% across the range of 50-500Hz. EDIT: I finally figured out how to change the Hz to allow it to scale to 3200Hz so I guess I'll start tuning boost tomorrow.

Never ran the BW turbos prior to the 35r stuff so not sure I understand the question.

 

I read that info on the S366 thread, love that setup, what model is the pump you used? would you recommend it?

Yea the factory computer is surprisingly capable, even in the age of aftermarket computers, it does a fantastic job. The biggest limitation I have found is deciphering everything.

The 35r question is in relation to your GTR, from what I recall, you have had more success with the BW over the Garrett on your evo, yet you're going to the Garrett on the GTR, is this due to packaging or is there another reason?

 

I ordered the pump in May of 2020 and have been running it ever since with no issues. I do test it from time to time by jumping the hobbs switch, but I also have an alarm setup on my gauge if crankcase pressure reaches 0psi. It was $130 off Amazon and is the "GM 215-414 Secondary Air Injection Pump." I did solder the terminals that connect to the motor by taking it apart, but other than that it is just a stock pump.

The GTR runs Gen2 GTX3071r (5455) turbochargers, but to your point I did want to run the S252 SX-E (5261) turbochargers. However, the gentleman that did the custom turbos for me was apprehensive to do the S252 so I just didn't push to make it happen despite his saying he could do BW turbos.

 

Another question (which I'm sure the answer of which could lead to another question...), could you run the secondary air pump full time and alleviate the requirement for the hobbs switch arrangement and 't-ing' off the factory PCV?

Surely there has to be a pump which could run constantly without failing or am I wrong here?

 

Edited because I did not read propperly

 

You can, but why run a constant pump that draws current when you have a free vacuum source. An electric motor has only so many revolutions in its life so with the ability to pull vacuum from the intake manifold it is simply not necessary.

 

I finally started MAF tuning under boost today, but I went through a several hour crash course on how to tune MAF with the stock ECU. Although I've been tuning for a long time, I actually paid someone to initially tune my car on MAF so outside of setting up the injectors I was unfamiliar with this process on the EVO. I got the injector parameters setup as best I could and then started modifying the "MAF Scaling" table to fine tune the fuel to keep STFT withing 5% so the LTFT would hover around 0%. This worked like a charm, but I quickly realized I had no more adjustments above 500Hz to add additional fuel. Then I realized the damn scale only goes to 1600Hz so I spent an hour trying to figure that out. Below is the one function expression (circled in RED) you have to change to scale the MAF tables to 3200Hz.




Got that sorted and basically you're not supposed to use the "MAF Scaling" table to tune fuel, but instead the "MAF Compensation" table. I didn't want to lose all of the work tuning the MAF so I used the equation provided by a forum member shown below and calculated the "Injector MAF Compensation" I was using based on the modified "MAF Scaling" table and the stock "MAF Compensation" table. Once I had these values I then set the "MAF Scaling" numbers back to stock and then back calculated the new "MAF Compensation" values, which are highlighted below in Green. So at this point I just set the "MAF Scaling" table back to stock and entered the new calculated "MAF Compensation" values. To my surprise the car drove perfectly and my trims appeared to be pretty close although I tweaked them just a little.





I then started fighting with fueling and quickly discovered my LOAD was capped at 380 so I had to download some code to remove the IPW and Load limits.

85590015:
<table name="Set to 9 to remove load limit" address="2a49c" type="1D" level="1" scaling="Hex16"/>
<table name="Set to 9 to remove IPW limit" address="2a69a" type="1D" level="1" scaling="Hex16"/>

Once this was done the car dialed in in a matter of a few passes just by modifying the "MAF Compensation" table and currently the "High Octane Fuel Map" is the untouched stock table. I think I will modify it slightly to get AFR dead nuts, but this wasn't as bad as I thought it would be once you figure out what to do. Below is the "MAF Compensation" table in its current form and the "MAF Scaler" table is stock although extended to 3200Hz.





This is the latest 3rd gear log from this evening. My only concern is the boost seems to drop about 1psi less than normal so I'm unsure if this is related to the MAF being a restriction.





Same log as above, but showing Load and MAF Hz exceeding 3200Hz. Load hits as high as 440 sometimes, but ~420 on this log.




Finally, a log of my dyno pass with this same turbo vs the street pass this evening. Dyno (RED) and Street (BLUE). I may just go and stick the car on the dyno just to get a baseline before I put on that Hyundai intake manifold.

 

Good work, an old tip is to use % instead of g/s, means you can just plug in the % change instead of chasing your tale using g/s which doesn't really translate to anything meaningful when looking at FT logs.

 

gotta link to the equation or thread

 

You just set MAF_Comp scaling to Percent128, this can be done through the ECU software defintion file changes (axis defintion), so the right column now displays %, you don't have to do it directly to the Hex.

Fuel change required based on FT is now just a % change, they speaking the same language now.

Hope that helps.

 

Is the picture below correct? So if I implement this change, if my STFT is trimming -5% at 300Hz I simply lower that value in the MAF Compensation table by 5% and problem solved?

 

Yes, you've got the concept, makes life much easier.

There will be some differences as there a number compensations however, this will get you very close and should let the computer make the compensations it needs to in different conditions.

 

Thanks and that mod really helped. I pretty much have it dialed-in in terms of trims, but will be working out some additional bugs with the setup.

• The FB 70mm TB doesn't have a BISS screw and I don't want to use the throttle stop to lower ISCV Demand, which is about 25-30% from memory (62 steps with AC Off). I've ordered a mini air regulator (meter in) that will screw into the intake manifold via 1/8" NPT port and connect to another 1/8" NPT port on the intercooler pipe. It will act just like the BISS and allow for an adjustable amount of air to enter the intake to hopefully lower ISCV Demand.
  • https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...lers/fvr14-18n
• NTK sensor already took a dump after 3 weeks and occasionally just freezes at 0V or 1V, which makes the setup go lean or rich and subsequently throws the O2 code. I'm trying to get MrFred's Closed Loop Wideband control to work, but I can't get it to turn on. I'll post in that thread if any one can share the Tephra V7 settings to make sure I have the correct values.
• The air straightener material arrived today from overseas so I'll get that updated in the MAF and provide some pics.

It is a big change being on MAF because the car no longer hesitates in the morning when driving immediately after a cold start. Anything that brings the car back to its stock'ish feel make the car more tolerable to drive.

 

Happy to hear it helped.

I would suggest you first try making the adjustment for the idle with the throttle plate stop, then you can tinker with the steps in the ecu if needed (but i don't think it'll be required). I would think that if the idle is fine with the throttle plate stop adjusted correctly in the average temperature of where you live and the a/c off with around the normal amount of IACV, you dont need any extra adjustment to the ecu step look up. Setting up the bypass is just too much dicking around for something that can be achieved must easier.

 

Yea, but adding a mini air regulator looks cool.

Going to try this out today to see if I feel any difference.