When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
it will not run dry as you always have oil there. Running it off a G sensor is a good idea, just put a trigger at sometthing like 0.4 G lateral, RHD turns only.. That way you do not waste electricity.
I was working on this
Sump pics look cool! Lots of extra oil at the front of the sump.
I've sent you a PM Kikiturbo
But I've said it before and I'll say it again, the only true fix to the oil starvation issues we have is with a properly designed pan (which requires a custom downpipe). It's also less complicated in the end.
I hope he doesn't mind me stealing some photos off his FB but Zach made a custom sump and exhaust for his insane FP car and I've chatted with him a couple times now about it and his oil pressure drops have all but disappeared.
I've told people to hound vendors into making a solution, there's good money to be made. I'll be doing something similar for myself over the next year.
On a similar note, this car is still on a wet sump and the owner goes into it a bit. I'd be interested if anyone was able to divulge a bit more about it or the CT230R:
I reached out to Leon Scott several times via FB, and although he read the message he never ever replied.
Don't know why. I searched for solutions off CT230R, and it's a bit mistifying:
As you know, HKS did offer a drysump solution, which used OEM oil pump for pressure, and bottom of the shallow drysump oil pan mounted scavange pumps, developed for Formula car race application of the 4G63.
This dry sump has been successfully used by several race evos for long time, without any issues or concerns. The Blue Demon AMS Evo has it still.
So I am uncertain if Leon Scott actually accurately described his car's setup? Maybe he did and CT230R did run some unusual setup, or maybe he is not that technical and just passed on notion by someone who did the "HKS Dry Sump" and referred to use of stock oil pump as wet sump?
Zach's pan is very nice to have been brought up.
I've looked at it few times over time, but somehow always assumed- AX is unique setting and maybe the experience is not directly transferable to roadracing.
Would be great if Zach could share some data, how long at certain G -side-loading and oil pressure behaviour. We'd be delighted to change downpipe routing for benefit of oil pressure stability.
I reached out to Leon Scott several times via FB, and although he read the message he never ever replied.
Don't know why. I searched for solutions off CT230R, and it's a bit mistifying:
As you know, HKS did offer a drysump solution, which used OEM oil pump for pressure, and bottom of the shallow drysump oil pan mounted scavange pumps, developed for Formula car race application of the 4G63.
This dry sump has been successfully used by several race evos for long time, without any issues or concerns. The Blue Demon AMS Evo has it still.
So I am uncertain if Leon Scott actually accurately described his car's setup? Maybe he did and CT230R did run some unusual setup, or maybe he is not that technical and just passed on notion by someone who did the "HKS Dry Sump" and referred to use of stock oil pump as wet sump?
Zach's pan is very nice to have been brought up.
I've looked at it few times over time, but somehow always assumed- AX is unique setting and maybe the experience is not directly transferable to roadracing.
Would be great if Zach could share some data, how long at certain G -side-loading and oil pressure behaviour. We'd be delighted to change downpipe routing for benefit of oil pressure stability.
I've looked at Leon's oil pressure and it's not good.
Zach's setup is cool, but doesn't retain AC so I'd rather just go dry sump at that point.
Here's the way I see it, if retaining A/C is a priority, the car doesn't have a legitimate need for a pan like this or a dry sump.
The only time I could ever see it justified would be if someone was building an Optima USCC car.
Also, i deal with aeration testing on engines as part of my job. The difference making a new pan that holds an extra quart or two can make a huge difference on time to heavy aeration (the amount of time before the pan is "sucked dry"), reducing pressure. I'd wager that if a pan like the one in the photos I posted above could hold 8-9 quarts, oil pressure drops would be nonexistent when coupled with a proper baffling system.
Here's the way I see it, if retaining A/C is a priority, the car doesn't have a legitimate need for a pan like this or a dry sump.
The only time I could ever see it justified would be if someone was building an Optima USCC car.
Also, i deal with aeration testing on engines as part of my job. The difference making a new pan that holds an extra quart or two can make a huge difference on time to heavy aeration (the amount of time before the pan is "sucked dry"), reducing pressure. I'd wager that if a pan like the one in the photos I posted above could hold 8-9 quarts, oil pressure drops would be nonexistent when coupled with a proper baffling system.
You are right, as OE pump will take in some 0.5 litres of oil every second at high RPM... This huge pan has another advantage, and that is oil pick up in the center, so even more oil capacity that you can baffle and use in a corner. However, there is a drawback. That much oil will like to slosh around and will get kicked by the crank a lot. Result is power loss, oil consumption and oil aeration. IMHO, lots of track + semislicks = dry sump.
Here's the way I see it, if retaining A/C is a priority, the car doesn't have a legitimate need for a pan like this or a dry sump.
The only time I could ever see it justified would be if someone was building an Optima USCC car.
Also, i deal with aeration testing on engines as part of my job. The difference making a new pan that holds an extra quart or two can make a huge difference on time to heavy aeration (the amount of time before the pan is "sucked dry"), reducing pressure. I'd wager that if a pan like the one in the photos I posted above could hold 8-9 quarts, oil pressure drops would be nonexistent when coupled with a proper baffling system.
There are nothing wrong with building a damn bad *** street car with desire to retain A/C and still generate enough lateral g load to have the need for a big capacity oil pan or dry sump though.
If you live near the equator like me, A/C is pretty much a must short of building an all out time attack or road course car.
The whole point of what i'm trying to achieve is retaining that "stock" oil pan design but just fix the oil relief dump issue.
I love that sump design of Zachs, but its what I would call "non customer relatable".
The whole point of what i'm trying to achieve is retaining that "stock" oil pan design but just fix the oil relief dump issue.
I love that sump design of Zachs, but its what I would call "non customer relatable".
No it doesn't. The pickup will still starve. The oil coming from the pressure relief does not last long.
The only decent solution if you chose that route (which I've considered heavily) would be to plumb an accumulator between the relief and the inlet of the pump.