I said it fixes the issue of oil pressure relief just dumping to the pan. I made no mention of this also fixing starvation issues.

 

Yup agreed, and i've actually made that point in my first main post.
But the FF pump is $1600 USD and it still requires a baffled sump.

What i'm trying to do is make a solution that is significantly cheaper than the FF pump, with all the functionality.
It aims to solves a bunch of problems to aid in reliability.
If you're at the stage where you are completely draining the oil pan in RH corners then you need a dry sump. Period.
Unless you want to run the risk of it grenading randomly, which it will eventually do.

I love it how so many people say "oh I dont need that, I dont have any engine problems".
But then they dont even log oil pressure.

 

Where did you get this fitting being pointed to in the picture below, which screws into where the factory oil pressure relief spring is located?

 

It's an O2 Bung Extender. Same thread and means it clears the oil pump front cover.
What do you think of my idea?

Next plan is to do a new sump extension with a regulator built into the sump.
So it will eliminate the need for remote mounting the regulator and removes one of the AN lines also. Simpler!

 

As does magnus

 

I like the idea and I am thinking about potentially doing the same, but not sure.

 

How did you block off the factory oil pressure relief passage to the block in the oil filter housing?

 

Nevermind, I just tapped it 1/8" NPT. I guess I am committed at this point since I just ordered everything!

 

I drilled a hole in the factory cap and then welded a piece of stainless tubing to it and will next weld on a -10an fitting on the end of the tube. Should have the weld on fittings Wednesday.

 

The regulator is on back order for a few weeks so curious as to the setup with the regulator built into the sump. My new pan is coming from MAP so I will be adding a small front sump and along with custom baffling using a knockoff of the Tomei Universal Baffle kit. Going to experiment on the old pan to figure out how to remove the tack welds without pocking a hole in the pan so likely going to start with a spot weld cutter.

 

I have a kiggy hla, ER oil gear, and moroso pan. And all I do is drag race so I think I should be okay. But I've honestly been thinking of trying something very similar to this. Excellent write up.

 

Good to see you're giving it a go!

 

Yep, went with the Aviaid regulator since the one you used was on back order. The also had the kind that mount to the pan you mentioned and seal with an oring, but I decided that was not for me and went with the AN fittings.
https://aviaid.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/remot-reg.htm

In hindsight I should have just put this in between the oil filter housing and the oil cooler instead of welding the fitting to the oil bypass spring cap, but it works just the same either way.

 

I thought about that too. But I wasn't sure if the oil filter could handle the full flow of the oil pump. So I opted for the factory style oil routing with the regulator bleeding pressure off before the oil filter.

 

The relief spring in the filter causes the oil to mostly bypasses the filter element at 14psi, but either way it will do the same thing. I guess it might be better using the spot you chose because that bypass location will have the highest flow.