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8500 rpm evo ix whats needed

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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 10:49 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 240Z TwinTurbo
They make quality parts except for the parts of poor quality that kill engines. It is a race part, but it does not release them from liability if they know the parts are defective and don’t make a good faith effort to advise their customers. Additionally, it’s a matter of integrity within the EVO community.
Both ER Evos (8 and X) running 7's are running entirely GSC valvetrain. I don't think you run 7's running low quality parts.

So, you're literally full of ****.

Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Jun 7, 2020 at 11:03 AM.
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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 11:30 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
That was many years and and has long been resolved.
Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
So, you're literally full of ****.

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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 12:05 PM
  #18  
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Why focus on detail, when it's irrelevant today to OP's inquiry.

I have not heard of GSC issues in many years, and yes, I do remember few of the failures.
I have GSC stuff in one of my cars, and Kiggly also in another(lower pressure setup) and see no concern with either.

The car is running driving, OP cannot delete balance shafts with engine in the car: I don't see a problem revving to 8500rpm occasionally if everything is fresh.

He explained why, he occasionally races 100-200km/h and to avoid shifting into 5th he extends to 8200-8300rpm in 4th. I don't see a concern, except the well thought out remark about valve springs. I did not spot the lower seat pressure valve springs, glad it was brought up.
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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 12:35 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by alpinaturbo
Why focus on detail, when it's irrelevant today to OP's inquiry.

I have not heard of GSC issues in many years, and yes, I do remember few of the failures.
I have GSC stuff in one of my cars, and Kiggly also in another(lower pressure setup) and see no concern with either.

The car is running driving, OP cannot delete balance shafts with engine in the car: I don't see a problem revving to 8500rpm occasionally if everything is fresh.

He explained why, he occasionally races 100-200km/h and to avoid shifting into 5th he extends to 8200-8300rpm in 4th. I don't see a concern, except the well thought out remark about valve springs. I did not spot the lower seat pressure valve springs, glad it was brought up.
You can delete them in the car. Pan and oil pump off, replace the front/oil pump driven shaft with the OEM stub shaft, leave the rear shaft in so you don't have to roll the bearings but leave the belt off so it doesn't spin, and voila. Balance shaft delete.

Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Jun 9, 2020 at 02:09 PM.
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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 12:45 PM
  #20  
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One of Curt Brown's lasts posts was telling people not to buy GSC valves because they are inferior, plus the first versions of the GSC cams had a reputation for snapping. There absolutely have been quality concerns with GSC parts for a while. Kiggly springs have a pretty spotless reputation, I would much rather (and did) go with their products for peace of mind.
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Old Jun 9, 2020 | 12:54 PM
  #21  
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^Sorry but you have them mixed up. Curt used GSC valves in all his builds and recommended them but actually preferred the Kiggly springs though also said the GSC's are more than adequate. But as far as valves are concerned he had no issues with the GSC's. The valves he didn't care for were Ferrera.
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Old Jun 9, 2020 | 02:11 PM
  #22  
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Yeah. Curt used GSC valves in all his heads...

http://www.curtbrownracing.com/mitsubishi-heads.html

$1600 4g63 package Spec:

Street/Race head
GSC SS valves
Kiggly Beehive springs
Race port
Bronze valve guides
Competition multi angle valve job
New seals
Pressure checked
EGR port tapped and plugged
2G DSM heads drilled to 1G stud size
Resurfacing for MLS gasket
Will work with 16G sized turbo's to a 42r.
811WHP with a 35R on this head.
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Old Jun 9, 2020 | 06:31 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
^Sorry but you have them mixed up. Curt used GSC valves in all his builds and recommended them but actually preferred the Kiggly springs though also said the GSC's are more than adequate. But as far as valves are concerned he had no issues with the GSC's. The valves he didn't care for were Ferrera.
Ah you're right. I knew GSC was mentioned but his FB page was gone so I couldn't confirm. My apologies.
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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 12:50 PM
  #24  
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From: Aalborg
Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
You can delete them in the car. Pan and oil pump off, replace the front/oil pump driven shaft with the OEM stub shaft, leave the rear shaft in so you don't have to roll the bearings but leave the belt off so it doesn't spin, and voila. Balance shaft delete.
I need a bit more details on this, i have the stub shaft.
So i remove the belt from the balance shaft that sits by it self and let it Be in place,
What about the shaft at the oil pump do I remove that put the stub shaft in and turn the inner bearings or?
Thanks 😁
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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 12:53 PM
  #25  
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From: Aalborg
Originally Posted by alpinaturbo
Why focus on detail, when it's irrelevant today to OP's inquiry.

I have not heard of GSC issues in many years, and yes, I do remember few of the failures.
I have GSC stuff in one of my cars, and Kiggly also in another(lower pressure setup) and see no concern with either.

The car is running driving, OP cannot delete balance shafts with engine in the car: I don't see a problem revving to 8500rpm occasionally if everything is fresh.

He explained why, he occasionally races 100-200km/h and to avoid shifting into 5th he extends to 8200-8300rpm in 4th. I don't see a concern, except the well thought out remark about valve springs. I did not spot the lower seat pressure valve springs, glad it was brought up.
Thanks.
But do I need the stronger springs or is the ones i have adequate for the job? Im only running 25 psi of boost right now

Thank you
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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 01:51 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Michael Jensen
I need a bit more details on this, i have the stub shaft.
So i remove the belt from the balance shaft that sits by it self and let it Be in place,
What about the shaft at the oil pump do I remove that put the stub shaft in and turn the inner bearings or?
Thanks 😁
It's exactly as I said. Replace the oil pump shaft with stub shaft, leave other shaft in place but leave belt off.
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