Conclusion guys. Is Act twin worth the money or you guys moving to different clutch? Did Act ever redesigned it so it is good or still problems with them?

 

7500 on mine no issues with 750 wheel and I really like how it feels and its easy to drive.

 

No your right it doesn't and I wasn't trying to say it was. I was saying going from an exedy to this its lighter, and going from the organic to the ceramic seems lighter but there are more factors then that. They do drive similar, but I do like the ceramic one better. Thanks for pointing this out being it wasn't the point I was trying to make.

 

Which part number clutch did you go with? Is it organic or ceramic? Thanks!!

 

If you have a higher hp car don't waste your time with organic. I did and I killed it on the dyno somehow. But I do have a ceramic.

 

pin came off and got chewed by the starter. I just read some people remove all 3



not sure why the cover rubs and damages the bellhousing, not sure what comes first... the pin coming out and hitting the bellhousing or some contact knocks off the pin(there are deep dents). I was told the new clutch cover was milled down. the yellow paint damage shown here is mostly from me unbolting the cover since I had problems with the monoloc again




some friction material chipped off. 10 autox launches, 4 events

Fingers crossed for some warranty replacement from ACT

 

ouch!

Also check your clutch fork, it rubs on that also(mine does)!


I'm still having issues with my ACT twin after they warrantied it. Throwing it in the trash is the plan for me once I get a new clutch.

 

Looks like act twin is complete garbage. What clutch are you planning on installing. Some people moved to xclutch ( I have never used them), others went back to quartermaster twin. I personally like quartermaster for high hp and I have never had problems with them but driving around city sucks.

 

what issue are you having with the new one?
I had a feeling the ACT TOB was part of the problem on mine, which I didnt know the shop installed. unfortunately I realized late that I didnt have the Mitsu TOB in stock so I installed the new ACT TOB but everything greased up this time. the previous on was dry and felt like its not operating smoothly

 

My plan is to switch it out with a QM/CM twin and get rid of the standard TOB

oh ****. My clutch fork is rubbing on the pressure plate now and I've adjusted the living **** out of the clutch. Pretty much locking out of 1st and reverse.

 

maybe you just need a new fork. I painted my fork before reassembly and I didnt see any rub marks. I have damage similar to the ones in this FB post, which is obviously from those rivets lifting before falling off

 

When I installed the replacement clutch, a new OEM fork, Fork Pin, bolts, springs, TOB, ect was put in. Everything that needed lubed was lubed, everything torqued to spec with witness marks, ect.

 

Everyone ditching this clutch or loving it?

I'm currently on a Tilton carbon carbon (just got this specific car so don't have a ton of time behind it) but I'm trying to decide on a new clutch since this will be a street car only. The Tilton is a great clutch but I'm going to ruin it on the street and it's only got 4k miles on it so I might as well sell it while I can.

I was trying to decide between this ACT Mod Twin (T2S-M01), Exedy Triple, or the XClutch, but now I'm really torn on what to do. I'm around 705hp on a mustang dyno so I'm sure any of these clutches can handle that but drivability is my main concern. I won't be going over 8k rpm either so high rpm shifts aren't a major concern for me I guess. I'm getting everything together now to go back to a pull style clutch and was just wondering what the consensus is on this one still.

 

Keep the Tilton, i love my clutch so easy to drive but come on man a Tilton. If you dont like it i will trade you clutches just rebuild mine. Rebuild for rebuild

 

You said it right there, "so easy to drive", which in traffic and on hills this Tilton is not. If this was a drag car 100%, it engages 1/4" into pedal travel (which according to install instructions is correct) and it's on/off, no modulation or engagement zone, but it does hold anything. Just after something more street friendly is all or my specific use case, which isn't the drag strip.

I've got a rear motor mount and subframe to install so I'll be down there anyways.