i bog'down a launch today (5th autox run) then my clutch pedal only returned halfway. it has pressure but the engagement point is lower. after parking the car (done with my runs) the pedal came back to normal. is this a sign the slave cylinder is going? btw is it better to keep the peep hole unplugged? the topside breather is putting out some dirt onto the bellhousing i wonder if that normal. TIA

 

Totally agree. I called ACT before buying the clutch, was extremely specific about my setup and said my car is a 145-150mph trap speed car that will see probably 3 track visits a year. The guy was so adamant about the Organic disc and that it'd be fine for a few track visits and would take street driving better, so that's what I did.

Now that I have the Ceramic discs in, its night and day. I haven't launched yet but did few brake boosted pulls after breaking it in and even the shift engagement feels way more solid than the Organic. ACT doesn't think it'll last with street duties but at this point Im already at a loss so it was my path of least resistance. I dont slip the clutch much on take-off and I barely drive 3k miles a season so we'll see

 

I wonder if you overheated the clutch on the launch and the it'll all got hot? Have you tried bleeding it again to see?

I feel like the mode of failure on Slaves/Masters is leaking most commonly and thats very noticeable

 

i will look into that soon. I think I'm finally experiencing the "lock out" situation. no grinding or anything, it just wont get into 1st and reverse gears. 1 month old act twin and a brand new TRE trans

 

How does it compare to the organic for like normal driving feel the same? I thought a while ago or originally going to the ceramic discs but I ended up going organic. Like how does the pedal feel just like it did?

 

Feels 100% the same. Engages the same etc. I dont slip it much to take off to avoid wearing the discs, but I can say the shift engagement is 150% more solid when banging gears. That was the first extremely noticeable difference

 

Thats reassuring to me, makes me feel better being that when it is time to switch discs I may go this route, Thanks for the info

 

Could you run one ceramic and one organic?
Sounds stupid but is it?

 

The heat/torque capacity is so different between the two discs I'm guessing you would end up cooking everything the first time you launched

For example- Just by changing from Organic to Ceramic discs it increases the Tq capacity by 300 ft/lbs in my unit

They claim everything is designed for long life, then you talk to them on the phone and they say the Ceramic discs cant take daily driving. So what you have is one friction that can be daily driven but will literally melt when heat from a good launch occurs which limits the use or a friction that can handle heat from a launch and has the solid high rpm shift engagement you need but then they say will wear out from being driven which also limits the use.

I feel like someone got overpaid at ACT.

 

Ain't the kits rebuildable? I would rather deal with replacing the ceramic disc that can take the abuse but wear faster than a disc that can't take any launches or overheat.

 

Yeah as stated above you would kill it or trans first time you launched it or got on it due to one will grab harder then the other and bang.


I didn't have any problems overheating on my launches with mine but i didn't ride out the clutch that much either. My launches still suck and being the first time launching this clutch i was a little easy on it. But again I was on street tires not drag slicks so i just roasted the tires in 3 of the 5 gears anyways. And yes they are rebuildable and thats alot of work to keep doing over and over and over again if you get what i mean. I think if your going to use this clutch as a drag clutch the ceramic discs are the way to go but for a dd or something you would spirit drive then I would say organic would be ok.

 

Anyone using this on track, like road courses ?

 

I'm having the same issue with the RMA'd clutch. We just keep on adjusting until it doesn't do it but it's becoming more of a PITA. Going to be ditching the ACT twin next season for a CM/QM.

 

Just out of curiosity, when was the last time the master and slave have been changed? And does your lock nut under the dash come loose when you have to adjust it? I ask this cause I had a problem with my old Exedy clutch not wanting to go into and out of gear and it was my damn lock nut coming loose and readjusting the clutch on me. As for the master and slave they could be wearing out if you haven't ever changed them. I am going to plan that when the time is right with mine

 

what are you adjusting? I feel this is going to be a major issue this race season