That's cause you have carbon/carbon discs. Go back to ceramic and the car will be totally different ton drive.

 

personally I'm giving the ACT Twin "v2" a try. I've done around 20 AWD launches (autox) so far and its holding up. I honestly wont be worried with just street driving and pulls. There's still a little bit of contact to the fork but I havent felt it, unlike the V1 when it was falling apart. The nasty part is when the dowels start to back out but Ive read many folks just remove them

 

I called Tilton to see if I can swap my carbon/carbon to cerametallic and they said it's completely different and I would have to get a new clutch. Not only that, but they don't recommend the cerametallic for street use at all, said the carbon can take the heat much better and won't warp like the cerametallic.

Is this clutch overall thicker than others? Just curious why these seem to be the only ones that contact the fork, unless I just never heard about it from others. Do you think that's why the dowels back out from the fork contact causing excess vibration? Whenever I watch a video of a clutch removal from someone that had this ACT I see gouges in the bell housing, is that from the dowels backing out I guess? Don't really like that.

I'm still thinking I might try this ACT before an exedy triple though.

 

Ok so I wont disagree with that statement from them. I don't know about the differences between the main clutch and the discs. I mean duh the carbon will be better but more expensive. I have a ceramic discs now and I have run them in the car all except recently when I first put the act back on the car I had organic and I have never had one warp. But I guess it depends on how you drive. I mean I would honestly keep the Tilton and adjust the pedal out some so you can actually slip it. If it handles heat better then it should be slipable enough before it heats up. I can't really comment on it much being I have never driven a car with a carbom/carbon but I do know enough about them to speculate. It is up to you man. I would hate to see you drop the cash on another clutch when then one you have will work just fine if not better then these. I mean I guess it all depends on how much power you wanna run.

 

So it's on a 6766 now and put down 705hp on a mustang dyno but the ACT could hold that as well. I'll start by adjusting that pedal out some, Tilton just said not to adjust it too much so the pressure plate doesn't get over stroked more than it needs to so I might extend it another 1/4" or so at most. I just assumed I could sell the Tilton to cover the other clutch but I do agree with you. I'm just not used to 'drag' clutches so maybe it's user error and I just need more time behind it. Can't do my usual starts at around 1.5k rpm I guess, especially with that lightweight flywheel. I think the entire Tilton assembly weighs like 16lbs.

 

So you bought a drag car so to speak correct? I will say on an organic clutch with the act I made1208/850 something and the clutch held up till just recent. I beat the hell out of it on a 72mm turbo so yes it will handle what you throw at it. I just think for your setup and how the car was built I honestly can say I think its in your best interest to stay where your at with that clutch. It has been proven and it will not fail and its held that power all along. If your looking to daily that car and change everything then by all means sell the turbo sell the clutch and start over. But if the car stays as is honestly keep the Tilton. I mean I was going after the same clutch before I got in this one and I like this clutch don't get me wrong but I just think your better off with what you have currently honestly.

 

Yea basically, it was too well done and low miles though so I went for it. Definitely different than my other 2.4 Evo9 turbo car.

But I don't want to derail this thread, I'll adjust the pedal but ultimately if I don't like how it drives I'll probably go for this clutch. Question though, do they all seem to contact the bell housing? I always see the cover plates beat up and those (3) pins missing, didn't know if that was normal or you're supposed to remove some material from the housing before install or something.

I have a tubular subframe I need to put on so I'll be down there anyways. I'll let you know if I ever taker it out though.

 

Yes on both. I dont know why the "v2" still rubs, maybe the bolts stretches a bit + heat expansion of the cover + a little movement of the crank. I dont get it, I just hope it doesnt get worse lol


I havent taken a look at the fork side

 

I have the t2s mo1 sprung with organic discs. I believe it's v1
had it since mid 23 but the box had a date of 22. Had the trans gone through at the same time when putting in the clutch probably 4to5k on the clutch. Making around 600/450 on a 2.3l fp black.

No failures but I do notice the car wanting to bump forward when putting it into gear (warm or cold) it has done this pretty much from the install. sometimes it feels notchy and not that buttery smooth shifting like it should be. I'm wording if it has some disengagement issues. I emailed act and they said they would update the floater plate and Inspect it and send it back. I'm hoping the v2" will take care of my issues. Also should probably toss in a new master to make sure that's not affecting anything as the car has about 120k on it now. I don't track the car much anymore but a few street rips in the summer.

 

@DSMolition sounds like it just needs pedal adjustment

 

Tried that all the way out and all the way to just off the floor and every spot in the middle and never made a difference unfortunately. What is your go to method?

 

I dont have any method really. I only made adjustments when I got a new clutch line, several single disc and twin disc set (sometimes the shops set the initial setting). I dont like engagement close to the floor, it screws up my timing. I have two transmissions here and one has a new fork. maybe check if yours is bent?

 

I believe the clutch fork is cast, and for some reason my brain can't comprehend why cast parts would bend. Ive been in the game for 18 years and have never seen a clutch fork bend. Friction areas have worn out but never a bend.

One thing I discovered that created HUGE issues for me was that the restrictor pill was still in my slave. This was 100% my fault, I bought a brand new OEM Slave after being on a QM 8 Leg for 10 years and never realized I needed to remove it. This is what I believe led to my premature failure on the organic discs, although from people's experiences I already know they werent lasting long either way. This also doesnt remedy all of the known failures between the anti rattle springs/the dowels/the rubbing etc. But it may help with adjustment effectiveness.

TLDR: Make sure theres no restrictor pill in your slave cylinder

 

I was thinking shift forks but I have read of a few broken clutch forks, maybe a hairline crack make it look bent.
https://www.reddit.com/r/MitsubishiE...ken_like_this/

crack on the pivot for example would make it operate like its bent.
Definitely something is off. I personally never had issues finding the sweet spot. If there is a clutch master or slave cyl upgrade in the past, maybe a rod was too short?