So I take it, you won't be going back to Mynes anytime soon? lol

 

nope....dont think so lol
PJ

 

I think more to Carlos' point. Even though the AEM works well for controlling boost, we have MUCH larger temperature swings from day to night here in the desert than anywhere else in the country, and knowing Ray he will want to have his foot in it as much as possible. So an external boost controller may be in order since he may not want to run the same boost at 110 degrees at 3pm as he would at 70 degrees at 3am that same night. And yes...Ray is up at weird hours.

Brett

 

damn it.......i loved my EVC V. Might have to get another one. Zero spikes and rock solid performance. Till the solenoid went out. And HKS wouldnt fix it. And its $500.........

 

Ray, I have had a couple of electronic boost controller in the past. Seriously your car and your geographical location is a big concern to me, I wouldn't just settle with a single boost setup, you just can't.

You can get a EVC EZ from HKS and restablish your boost to the desire levels. The moment yo go West to Phoenix you will be overboosting, go to Sierra Vista and you will be underboosting, go to Mount Lemon and the same thing.. It is juts a matter of time before you can run into trouble with boost fluctuation, I would definately consider a reliable boost solution.

I still want to see you next Friday at the Track(SIR)


Carlos

 

PJ,


Your power levels kind of scare me bro, from now on you can't just put any clutch. Your agressive driving wouldn't help either, I am afraid you can't cut corners anymore with cheap clutches you were looking for big numbers and now you have a 500whp (Mustang Dyno Evo) that ain't a joke.

From now on your clutch choices are very narrow, the average clutch wouldn't do the job. Please check with Steve at IA because I am telling you he has the best deal on Exedy(he does not really know his prices well yet and he is selling excepcionally cheap).

Who is doing your AEM tuning?

Carlos

 

Should i stick with my forge mbc or should I get the GM boost solenoid?? I dunno what to do. I was thinkin a profec b spec II but i dunno. any input would be awesome.


PJ

 

Carlos,
I am not sure who is going to do the tuning yet. I have a couple of options. Can you pm me how much stephen got your clutch for? I really need to do one soon. I really hope the twin disc will hold that power as well... This is something both me and Ray will have to do in the near future..
PJ

 

I screwed with the AEM boost control for months using the GM solenoid. I got it to work "good enough" but their system just plain and simply sucks.

You can set it up for rock steady boost in a 1 gear pull from 2000 RPM to redline.... absolutly rock steady and great on a dyno.... then when you do a run through the gears you get spikes followed by big dips in boost as the F'ed up feedback system trys to compensate for the spike. I was able to (sort of) tune out the spike by lowering the duty cycle in the 6000 RPM area of map. When shifting at 8,000 RPM I would get a huge boost spike in the next gear uppon spoolup (shifting at 8,000 RPM you enter the next gear at aprox 6000 RPM) so that when drag racing I had pretty good (not perfect, but not horrible) boost control.... problem was that with this setup in the AEM for anything other than a full blown run through the gears (daily driving) that 6000 RPM "spike elimination" drop in duty cycle results in a huge drop in boost at 6000 RPM.

The ONLY way I was able to get good control was to turn off the feedback (since it sucked @ss anyway) and run the GM soleniod in parallel with a rusty trusty hallman boost controller that was there to eliminate the spikes. Any time I wanted to change my boost pressure I had to mess with the AEM tune AND adjust the hallman.

I think there was a slight advantage in spool up with the GM solenoid and the AEM, but it was not worth the trouble in my opinion. I now have the Hallman pro RX boost controller with no need for a wrench to adjust it, and the ceramic ball instead of stainless steel for more responsive smoother control.

Keith

 

thanks for the insight. I need to figure out what im going to do with this..

PJ

 

PJ,

The GM solenoid you can get it even on Autozone for about $5 but it is by no means any kind of boost controler all that it is is a plastic menbrane of the size of a quarter with two nipple on each side and it just prevents spiking and is set to a specific boost.
Subaru uses a ball copper ball on the compressor boost line to stabilize the boost but you still need a reliable source of controlling the boost.

I personally read that Greddy profec B is perhaps the best around, the newer version is the Type S wihci comes with silver dials, it is very simple and easy to operate.

What is your problem with boost PJ? are you also having spikes on your current setup? I am sending you the price on the clutch as we speak(I found no one else selling the Exedy cheaper than Steve at IA).

As far is the twin disc, they are strong but knowing your driving style nothing is strong to your standards, plus you car puts just too much power, you might have to go tripple disc I am afraid..

Carlos

 

Fourdoor,


Correct me if I am wrong but I thought that all the Hallman came with the ceramic ball(white) already.

Can you elaborate more on that(you mnetioned it was a steel ball)

Thanks!!

Carlos

 

The Hallman pro RX comes with the ceramic ball, and a light pressure spring with a heavy pressure spring that you can install.

Here is a link to the hallman site with the optional parts.

http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com/applic.html

You will see that the normal Hallman valves have the heavy spring and stainless Steel ball. Any Hallman valve with the "RX" designation has the ceramic ball with the light spring and has the heavy spring in the box as an option you can install yourself.

The "Evolution" has the integrated cockpit adjustment knob (cable actuated, not vacuum lines running all over the place) and the "Evolution RS" has the cockpit control AND ceramic ball with light spring.

Keith

 

The GM solenoid is just that... a soleniod valve. Not some plastic membrane. It is a solenoid valve of higher flow capacity and more rugged construction than the stock Mitsubishi Solenoid and is used by the AEM EMS to control boost in either a blocker configuration (blocks the boost pressure from reaching the WG actuator) or as a bleeder valve like the stock boost solenoid.

Subaru's have a copper restrictor in the bleed line from the stock boost solenoid to regulate the amount of boost pressure is bleed off through the stock solenoid.

Keith

 

Well great so Dieters bragging rights were true, i thought those numbers were a little high for only 20lbs of boost, but i guess hearing it from David makes it legit, If i could have only made the time to make it down there with Dieter i could have had my car tuned. I have had work done by Vivid before great shop and great people. Congrats on the numbers guys