Ok, i'm planning on buying a new battery probably an optima, and i want to relocate it to the trunk. What do i need for a clean install, plus i have cusco rear strut and trunk bar, and where do i route the wires and is this safe. i will also be running a sun auto voltage stabilizer, and right now i have an hks earth grounding kit, what do i do with that

P.S. which in your opinion is the lightest performance battery eg. optima, stinger, lightning audio

 

i dont know which is the lightest, I used an optima red top. I did this all in my galant, not an evo, but I have seen EVO's with the same kit. I got the Taylor battery kit from Summit Racing, it was like $120. I ran the cable thru the passenger compartment under the carpet along side the center console, under the back seat and into the trunk, i had drilled a hole in the fire wall and used a rubber grommet. My sole reason for doing this was the kit includes cables and the cable wasnt long enough to run thru the kick panel, so thru the car was the shortest distance and it worked. The box is NHRA legal, sealed aluminum.

 

how do u ground the battery

 

I'm thinking of doing something similar.

What is the best way to hook the positive from the trunk to the positive cable in the engine bay? Or is there a better location to hook to? I'd have to look but, isn't there a fuse or something built into the positve connection to the battery?

I know a lot of people grind some paint off and ground in the trunk but, I have seen too many issues with poor grounds to even consider that.

Are there any trick insulated terminals you could crimp onto the ends of the new battery cables and have the factory terminals clamp onto like stock battery terminals?

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...hlight=battery

 

So you just bolt them together and tape the sh*t out of it for insulation?

That's ghetto. I'll find a better way.

 

I like that write-up sho'um, before i go and buy that kit can i mount it in the middle in stead of the corner

 

I didn't do the write-up, I just found it by searching. My guess would be yeah, just make the ground closer.

 

its actually really easy...took me about 45 minutes to do by myself...and about 45 bucks worth of parts, and the install looks pretty damn clean...

 

this is what I did. I grounded that battery to one of the bolts that holds in the rear seate belts, i used a multi meter and it was good. For the cleanest install, you want to cut the ring terminal off the end of the stock battery cable and use a stereo power distribution block. Get one thats 2 gauge in and 4 out, or I got one that was 2gauge in, 1 4gauge out and 4 8gauge outs. its from stinger, it was $15. I screwed the distrubition block down to the little support bracket from the stock battery tray. You can also opt to get rid of the whole fuse holder thing on the stock cable and run an inline fuse. I did that too, using a 125amp stereo fuse and holder from stinger, another $15. If you do use the stereo style fuse, mount the fuse as close to the battery as possible. and you also want to mount on on the alternator cable too. if you plan on running at any NHRA tracks that do REAL tech inspections on your car, you need to wire up a kill switch in accordance with NHRA specs, if anyone needs this diagram, send me a pm and i can get it for you