$159 or $209 for the tray. Ouch. Yeah, that's a nice piece, but, really... can't someone make a no-frills powdercoated steel tray for under $50?

 

No, that's "cranking amps", AKA "hot cranking amps".

 

Need to go ahead and re-read my post above yours. AMS and Buschurs batteries are rated at 300 Cranking amps at 32* and 220 Cold Cranking Amps at 0* I'd think that my second setup with the new tie down that I fabbed would pass tech.

 

Oh I read it, you asked where I got that info, I posted it.

I simply said that Dave said they use the same battery as AMS.. I didnt mention anything about the amps after your post..

They should be more specific when listing CCA or CA..

 

looks like *** along with the crappy install of the ghetto diy grounding kit

 

this is not a reason tho have those kits. you have to turn the battery, to fit the after market UICP. you need to modify the tray too.
But is a good start.

 

Some people just want the weight reduction and couldn't care less about aftermarket intakes or plumbing.

 

^+1

 

haha! Ok then I was trying to be one. This is a stupid idea. Sorry. But look at it! You buy a $30k car and then put a cheap motorcycle battery under the hood. Why? And like I said, if it works and allows you to run an aftermarket UICP then cool but there is no way you can run a Buschur or AMS or Nisei or anything shorter than stock with that thing becaust it is just as wide as stock. There I said it.

 

Because that will really make a noticeable difference....

 

+1

 

Let us know how it holds up!! I'm still a firm believer that you get what you pay for though.

 

Weight reduction is an incremental process. You don't drop a couple hundred pounds with a single replacement part--you do it by dropping 5, 10, 20 pounds in as many places as you can. Dropping 20 pounds for ~$50 is a weight reduction bargain. That this happens to be 20 pounds from the heaviest corner of the car is an extra bonus.

 

In general, sure. But does everyone need/want a polished, billet aluminum mini battery tray? Does everyone need all of the cold-cranking power of the more expensive mini batteries? If the cheap mini battery doesn't hold up, so what? What are you out? $35 for another one or $90 if you want to upgrade. Big deal.

If you want to pay $200-$300 for a fancy battery and tray, knock yourself out. It's your money, your car, and your decision. But there's no need to p!ss all over someone who's willing to try a more frugal approach and share what they've learned with others. You don't like this motorcycle battery approach? Fine. Don't do it. Unless you've something to add to the discussion, don't bother posting here saying you don't like it. Nobody cares what you like. I'm not speaking specifically to smarsenal, here, but to all the haters who feel the need to weigh in on this.

 

I'm not hating here. I'm simply interested for some follow up on how it works. I guess my point is that proven technology usually costs more (for good reason--It Works!). I am more willing to let others take the risk before I put untested products in my car (Yes, it is all personal preference). I actually think we need people to do what he's doing in order to find high quality products at a great price. Time will tell if this is a decent product or not. (so long that he comes back and lets us all know how it worked out)

BTW, this won't matter to me anyway. I'm already fixed up with a great kit that has already proven to work for me in sub-zero temps this winter:
http://corelineracing.com/gallery/ev...emrie600_480_5