the longer the valves stay open the more air comes in and out of the head. the more exhaust gases release to the turbo the faster it spools

 

funny thing is just got done installing my br35r turbo kit. the housing itself does seem small when you compare the o2 housing is only 2.5 inches. but you have to remember theirs no longer a wastegate attached so it makes sense. not sure how yours compares but i do require a 4 inch coupler for the inlet. overall i drove the car. mine's laggy since i also installed a ams vsr. i too am going ems on my car.


simply put with the whole cams creating a quicker spool. now you stroke out the block to what create a larger amount of air that is expelled through the exhaust allowing for quicker spool through the hotside. well the cams are the same they have lifts that dont have the affect of the stroker but allow more air to be pushed in creating a quicker spool. not a huge difference maybe 200 rpms at the most depending on turbos but yes they do help spool a little quicker. nothing that you'd probably feel though

 

Any pics of the turbo kit before it went on?

 

Whoa whoa whoa....

In general, the smaller the Cam, the quicker the spool... Hands down...

I have ran stock evo 8, hks 280's, and buschur 272's. Each time the larger cam went in, spool suffered.

Also, all 35r's do not look the same. IIRC, there are E, S, and "x" (I dont remember the third) covers. One has a 3" inlet, the others have a 4". The 35r with the 3" inlet appears to be smaller than the others. They all produce similar power...

 

^^that's I thought, but I see the point about longer duration allowing more air in... why do higher cammed cars lose power down low then? I thought that was reduced spool and thus why systems like VTEC, MIVEC existed.

 

You use terms like "area under the curve" which tells me that you've at least done some reading...but it looks like your missing the fundamental purpose of a camshaft (any camshaft) Camshafts are not just designed to "shift power up the curve" the camshaft is responsible for controlling how much and when the air/fuel mixture enters and leaves the cylinder. That being said it is possible to build a cam designed to efficiently create fast moving hot exhaust gas low in the RPM range for good low end spool. Alternately you could get a camshaft that gives the low end power and moves the power band up by increasing when and for how long the valves are open (duration) and how much of an opening is created (lift)
Basically since it sounds like your interested in keeping low end spool responsive you might want to look into some JUN 264's (remember that not all 264 cams are created equal, duration, lift, lobe center angle all have very important effects on how a cam performs.) Some have even said that the performance of the JUN 264's are on par with the HKS 272's...but thats just what others have said.

 

I just had an ATP3071 kit installed on my car, same issues as you, full boost around ~6000 (3071!!!). I asked around, people said the tune is messed up, which is not wrong.
BUT, that was not the reason I had boost coming in so late. There was exhaust leak from 3 places.
1. The manifold bolts werent torqued to the correct specification.
2. The tial 38mm WG had it's seat missing, kinda like a metal collar which sits beneath the WG piston/spring watever that is. (I bought the kit used, and for a noob like me I could have never gotten it right. Only saw wht the WG was missing once I saw the exhaust leak marks on my radiator! So I took the WG out and compared it to a 44mm one from a Sti's CP35R kit. Please dont bash. lol)
3. Also check the WG gasket, mine was done for so I got a new one made for abt $1.

I can imagine wht u feel like bro, its not tht great to have a stock turbo evo kick yo a$$ day and night, only to find out that the problem was in the install.

 

i dont have any pictures sorry. only thing i do remember was on the housing it was A/R 70.

now that i think about it i should of taken pictures. oh well

Like stated earlier. if you have smaller housing spooling should be a little quicker. thats part of the reason you see in dsm's people put a 20g wheel into a 16g compressor housing. doesnt quite have the same power potential of an actual 20g housing but similar. all your giving up is top end and a bit quicker spooling. not quite sure what different types of 35r buschur has but if your compressor housing is smaller then guess what your spooling should be a little quicker

 

would you mind maybe snappin a few shots all around of the kit installed? maybe some close ups of the turbo? and of the hotside/o2housing

 

Yeah I don't think they understand what youre saying. Having more cam duration moves the power up the curve. Its why it would be dumb to put a variable cam lobes (ie vtec) lobe as the main lobe.

 

Yeh bro i spent ilke 15k on this car and its running like such crap.. Hopefully the meth and ems will correct thigns.. but i cant help but to think theres something wrong with the turbo kit or something else besides teh tune.

i deff gunna have it all checked out

 

having more duration on a cam is going to have a vertical graph. when you compare a 264 to a 272, completely different. just because you have a higher duration cam doesnt mean it doesnt help the car increase the amount of air at lower rpm's.

your all pretty much right just in different ways. boostless the power curve on a higher duration cam is going to yes kill spool time for higher top end power, a lower duration cam will help out with initial spool but sacrifice its top end power.
an upgraded cam will help out with spool depending on what type of cam you get and what its going to be used for

 

one more thing, did you check for boost leaks? do a pressure test

 

yeah i'll try snapping some pics today. give me a call at around 7 pacific standard time and i'll send you some pics through my phone. 760-574-9091

 

Not really sure why you went with the 35r in the first place if your sticking with stock like boost pressure, you would have had much better results with a 50trim derivative on pump gas. Tuning a 35r @ 22psi on pump gas to be a daily driver is like running the 40 yard dash with 20lb weights strapped to each one of your nuts. Whats the point. Your initial disappointment was prob due to your bad tune. Also, it is never a good idea to throw money at a problem without knowing what is wrong in the first place.
In short: get a better tune, and smaller turbo and you will be much more happy.

p.s. if you plan on dragging the car, keep the turbo and start thinking bout internal upgrades