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Another Mpg Thread?!?!?!?! Seriously?

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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 01:54 PM
  #61  
DeeezNuuuts83's Avatar
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From: Southern California
Originally Posted by 90GSX-03EVO
The rolling power outages, the earthquakes, and the fires. You're absolutely right.


Let's get back on topic.
Topic shmopic, I have to respond to that. Power outages - never affected me. Earthquakes - only two big ones in the past couple decades, one up north, one down south. It's not like it happens frequently, and when they do happen, it's much less than a minute of inconvenience and is only bad if you're right at the center. Tornadoes and snowstorms, on the other hand... And fires can happen anywhere.
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 02:01 PM
  #62  
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From: SoFla
Originally Posted by clearskies
I guess I'm wrong but I thought colder weather might improve MPG? or to a certain degree?

My thought behind this was, the car is breathing colder air, therefore more oxygen gets sucked in, etc etc, and the engine is in turn breathing better?

hope someone understands me.. lol
yes more density of the air, but then the car need to compensate and add more fuel to the mix (in closed loop) becuase it actually runs a little leaner... and then I open loop it leans out a little and stay that way and "you get better" MPG

if i am wrong someone please correct me.
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 02:03 PM
  #63  
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From: Danbury, CT
I get about 100 to the tank =|
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 02:05 PM
  #64  
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From: Clarksville, TN
I've actually noticed that I get better gas mileage when I am in open loop as opposed to closed loop. It means I get to enjoy my car that much more.
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 03:33 PM
  #65  
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From: SoFla
Originally Posted by Chemwarrior
I've actually noticed that I get better gas mileage when I am in open loop as opposed to closed loop. It means I get to enjoy my car that much more.
well you're traveling faster and further...
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 04:18 PM
  #66  
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
Originally Posted by 90GSX-03EVO
I'm here by order, not by choice. I'm originally from KY and live up here because of my job (career).

I've never, ever, EVER, said that I like IL. In fact, about the only good thing I can think of that IL has is AMS. The FOID is a joke, luckily my Military ID card overrides that.


Just making sure we're on the same page... Trust me, the WAPCE's family is from California and they want us to move there... I told them "When my body is stiff and dead, you can pry my gun from my hands and bury me there but until then, enjoy living there with your bull****."

AMS FTW is about as good as it gets there...
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 01:29 PM
  #67  
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From: Somewhere...
I get (drum roll please) 12-13 mpg average.

This is city driving. I live in Manhattan, so it's alot of stop and go.

By the time my gas gauge is at half, I've only managed to put in about 63-64 miles on the clock. Give or take. I contemplate buying a bicycle and changing religions whenever I fill up.

I try to stay off boost in the city, usually cruising around 2500-3000 rpm depending on gear (mostly 3rd and 4th with the occasional 5th).

The last time I saw anything resembling decent mileage was when I drove upstate about 4 hours away, and I got maybe 19-21 mpg with the windows up, AC on, 3 passengers, and average 85mph speeds.

Yup. You guys getting 200+ mile tank ranges are only a dream to me....
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 01:49 PM
  #68  
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From: Aurora, IL
Originally Posted by spdracerut
1 hp is like 776 watts IIRC. HIDs only draw like maybe 100 watts? So we'll just call it .1-.2 hp. That's not even going to be noticable in your gas mileage. Tire pressures and having your windows rolled up will make a bigger difference.

I usually only get 14-17 mpg
Except we are not talking about a perfect conversion here, no system is 100% efficient. By the way, i believe the HID ballasts are 35W each (non-hid is 55). You also have to consider amperage and resistance.


Most of the winter gas mileage gripe is related to more anti freezing agents in the gas, a longer and richer warmup cycle for your vehicle, and possibly even a map that was calibrated better for summer than winter.

My 2g was getting around 20mpg until I gave the airflow curve a perfect tune with DSMLink. It took about 3 hours over one night of simply getting a zero fuel trim, hitting the airflow frequency and adjusting the interpolated values accordingly until the fuel trim would stay at 0. After that I saw an instant rise to 27mpg (alot of highway driving but I would still romp the 35R very regularly)

Last edited by fostytou; Jan 22, 2008 at 01:52 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 02:14 PM
  #69  
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From: Imperial Beach, CA
What does open loop and closed loop mean?
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 07:55 PM
  #70  
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From: SoFla
OPEN LOOP = ECU reads the values from the a/f table usually happens at highloas and throttle imput at high rpms.

CLOSED LOOP = ECU adjust the A/F to a determined value set by the computer (factory) 14.7:1 which is good for emissions and efficiency.

BTW, i set my car at open loop earlier on the TPS and LOAD and I got 80 miles to the fist quarter of tank. before the flash I think i was at 60 give or take. lets see if I go over 110 - 130 at the half thank mark ! BTW my car runs between 15-16.5 is 16.5:1 too lean for cruise off of boost?

I found how to make my WB sensor tell the ECU to run at 15.5
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 08:24 PM
  #71  
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From: FL
Originally Posted by Profoxcg
OPEN LOOP = ECU reads the values from the a/f table usually happens at highloas and throttle imput at high rpms.

CLOSED LOOP = ECU adjust the A/F to a determined value set by the computer (factory) 14.7:1 which is good for emissions and efficiency.

BTW, i set my car at open loop earlier on the TPS and LOAD and I got 80 miles to the fist quarter of tank. before the flash I think i was at 60 give or take. lets see if I go over 110 - 130 at the half thank mark ! BTW my car runs between 15-16.5 is 16.5:1 too lean for cruise off of boost?

I found how to make my WB sensor tell the ECU to run at 15.5
I've read in many places online that the reason we run 14.7 a/f ratio in closed loop is to keep our catalytic converter at its operating temperature range. And we can actually run leaner in closed loop. So if that is true, if you have the catalytic removed then there should be nothing to worry about.

How did you manage to trick the ecu to run leaner? What mpg's are you getting running those a/f ratios?
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 10:22 PM
  #72  
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From: SoFla
Originally Posted by BluEVOIX
I've read in many places online that the reason we run 14.7 a/f ratio in closed loop is to keep our catalytic converter at its operating temperature range. And we can actually run leaner in closed loop. So if that is true, if you have the catalytic removed then there should be nothing to worry about.

How did you manage to trick the ecu to run leaner? What mpg's are you getting running those a/f ratios?
the trick is going to be to have one of my wideband's output (the one that is supposed to simulate the stock O2 sensor) tell the ecu the it need to run trim the fuel between 15.4 and 15.7 which is anywhere from 15.5 - 15.6. for now, i just have the car run openloop from 2800rpms to redline. I logged and changed the A/F cell values from 2800 - 4500 rpms between 20-90 load cels.
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 10:22 PM
  #73  
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From: SoFla
yeah I dont have a cat. I just want to make sure 15.7 - 16.5 A/F is not lean overall for cruising
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 02:13 PM
  #74  
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From: Sacramento, CA
I get about 290-320. Thats only when I get only get on it once, for like 2 seconds... So realisticly, I only got that once
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 02:22 PM
  #75  
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From: Chesapeake, VA
at one time all high i got 34 mpg almost 410 for a full take about

o does the evo have a 14 gallon tank or 14.5
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