Developed a small drip/leak from the Slave Cylinder Piston and found that the rebuild kit was almost just as much as a new one. Went for the New Slave Cylinder (with the Restrictor Pill Delete Mod), full SS clutch line, and the Fork Stop. Be advised, the 17mm bolt at the Clutch Master is a pain! Still haven't completed the install... more to follow.

@Jp7 Thank you for responding to my inquiry for the IX's Clutch Line.

 

I dread that clutch master bolt its right there yet impossible access without some trickery. I recently put in a mew clutch slave, removed restriction pill and then noticed clutch engagement VERY close to the floor. maybe pedal needs to be adjusted after this mod? Also need to get a clutch fork stop for piece of mind thanks for reminding me lol

 

Guess who has a stuck climate control, guess who wasn't able to fix it by using the newer TSB'd gears! Now I've got to pull the whole unit to do the blend door TSB .

I thought I had got lucky and that the small gear that actually opens and closes the blend door was missing the locator stud, and that I'd be able to just replace that and put the new gears on, but they don't sell it alone. So I made one in fusion with a stiffer stud https://www.printables.com/model/167...lend-door-gear After testing it in car I see that it actually doesn't come close to touching the added support so in theory I could bulk it up even more, but it appears to be strong enough so this will do for now.

Anyways hopefully someone will find this useful, I did this one purely with my calipers but its bang on. I have a bunch of 3d scanned parts I'll be touching up in fusion and uploading (like the plastic rings on the steering wheel), I'll be sure to use the "evom" tag on future stuff as well.

 

Hers is some of the stuff this year. Upgraded the ic-7 to a uc-10, billet valve cover, rpf1's and hopefully a set of slicks here soon.

 

I don't recommend making adjustments (at the pedal side in the cabin)... when I bleed the Slave back, I had the manually "compress the slaves piston" by using channel locks and squeezing the fork and the Slave Cylinder housing. It was a process, for sure. The adjustments I made in the cabin "raised the pedal" (but now, it's at a higher level than the brake pedal. I hope this helps!

 

which valve cover did you go with? i’m still waiting on my PRP to ship.

 

Installed complete Aero kit on my 10. Need to get some pics now.

 

It’s amazing what magic eraser will do to a shined steering wheel. (Didn’t really do the right side so it’s still got a shine) This is only after the first pass.Your leather has to be in good condition but it removed all the shine to nearly factory Matt again. Saw it on some random YouTube vid didn’t think would actually work. Cool.

 

The shine is just dirt. Get a good leather cleaner and it will take the shine away.

 

Yes redline. I changed it again last month and there is glitter but not bad. Needs to have transmission rebuilt this year.

 

Bilstein stock'ers... would it be considered an upgrade? Added Camber Plates and replaced the "?bump stops?".
I hope this was worth the time and effort; now to get new tires and an alignment!

 

Yes they are better than the "normal" stock.

 

I made an Evo 7/8/9 LHD Dead Pedal Cover to match OEM pedal covers.

Mitsubishi never made a LHD dead pedal cover for the Evo 7/8/9 that matched the OEM pedal covers, but did so for RHD cars... So it always looked like it was missing. As such, I prototyped and designed a matching replacement! The piece is aluminum with a clear anodization to match the OEM pedals, which are also anodized.

I am also working on making another dead pedal that matches the Ralliart pedals, but the final non-3D printed piece is still being manufactured.

 

let me know when/if you start selling these!

 

yea, il grab one too! lol