Mine came with all the little doodads plus aluminum shifter bushings.

And for those that don't know (like I didn't), the controller arm rotates around the shifter so you can make it lean anyway you want.

 

I'll be honest, I had the hardest time making that short shifter fit. It would bang on the bottom of the shifter when trying to go into some of the gears. I forgot which gears they were. I ended up putting the stock one back on. Before you say anything, yes I tried many different configurations and it would still hit no matter which position I would put it in. I did end up using the metal shifter bushings on it though.

 

No offense, but I'm calling user install error on this one. I've installed 5+ and they've all worked perfectly as long as you follow the directions we have linked in the 2nd post of this thread.

 

I've installed exhausts, intercoolers, intercooler piping, fuel pumps, bushings galore, all sorts of gauges, and various other items. It's not a matter of user install error. I call manufacturing defect. BTW I used that link when I was first trying to install that short shifter that I purchased after reading your initial post many moons ago.

 

[QUOTE=Kracka;6407624]The Joe P. is my personal favorite manual boost controller. Its cheap, effective, and reliable. ECU controlled boost is nice in the fact you can log your boost level (with a 3-bar MAP sensor) and it will allow you to run more boost at redline. I'm personally on ECU-controlled with a GM BCS and Evo X 3-bar MAP sensor which I switched to from a Joe P. If I were to build another Evo I would stick with the Joe P. though since its a lot cheaper and so much simpler. Less dinking around and it just plan and simple works.

According to this it seems you guys favour manual boost controllers over elect, is this the case?

I'm currently trying to decide between man/elect. You guys really seem to know what ur talking about, so any input would be appreciated heaps

cheers
mc

 

[QUOTE=bkk_evo_guy;7597098]Most people prefer manual boost controllers because they are a) less expensive b) most people don't adjust their boost levels so they don't need something that can be adjusted from inside the cabin.

 

I prefer manual but Scheides prefers ECU-controlled. It all comes down to personal preference, how much time to want to spend dinking with it, and what your intended uses of the car are. I really like the simplicity and reliability of a good MBC since you can pretty much set it and forget it. When I had a GM BCS I was constantly fiddling with the settings trying to get it to be perfect, but I've yet to see ECU controlled boost have as steady of a boost curve as a MBC.

 

Well that sucks then. Did you try exchanging it for another?

 

how much lighter are the Beatrush driveshaft bushing then stock?

 

If anything I'm going to imagine they're heavier, but its negligible. You're replacing 4 rubber bushings with a metal washer on each side of them with 4 aluminum bushings and 4 aluminum rings.

 

No, I said screw it and put the original one back on. I've tried many times in the past when I was bored to try and reinstall the short shifter but I always end up with the same results.

 

To be fair, when we installed Kracka's short shifter the first time it was instlaled/uninstalled like three or four times while we were trying to figure it all out. Use the pics we've posted, the ONLY manufacturing defect we've seen is the ball size, which there is a work-around for. If it doesn't fit, take pics of what's hitting where, post them, we'll help.

 

+1, basically it comes down to how involved you want to get and how much you want to try and get out of your setup. Stop #1 should always be a MBC IMHO. For 95% of the people out there that want to DIY or plan a build, this is the easiest bang/buck and bang/time investment out there.

Now, if you have had a MBC for a while, like playing with the stock/open source ECU stuff and want to *try* and get more out of your setup, you can typically reduce the amount of boost taper you see on stock evo turbo setups. Whether or not you can get that extra boost to actually translate into more WHP is a whole other story!

Kracka switched back to a MBC after he got sick of dinking with the ecu-boost stuff and it was *very* eye opening when we were on the dyno with his car. Shane @DBPerformance was tuning, and tried making his ecu-boost mimic a boost controller's boost curve. He had previously gotten the car dialed in with less taper. With the MBC-esque curve he was able to put more timing in the car, and guess what? It made identical power. Identical. There's obviously more to be done with alky injection, different parts, blah blah blah but the moral of the story is YES you can get the turbo to taper less but getting more power out of it while doing so is not always easy!

 

Very informative... damn. I'm lazy and not mechanically inclined so I will have a pro install my Ebay SS. But I'll report back how it went.

I guess when I get ready to I'll just going MBC although I prefer the idea of the grimmspeed ecu-controlled EBCS. If there's no big advantage (I hear fuel efficiency?) then I guess it's not worth the hassle.

 

Another thing I'll add, when I switched back to a MBC from the GM BCS my turbo spooled harder and faster making the car feel much more responsive. A boost controller isn't going to affect fuel efficiency (unless you consider lag and less boost response), that's your foot's job. Since it doesn't sounds like you're much of a DIYer you'll end up paying a lot more money having a tuner get your BCS dialed in whereas a MBC will literally take minutes.