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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 09:25 AM
  #16  
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From: Holding over the VOR
To tack on... I'm using the DW301 fuel pump and don't need to listen to the whine of the walbro255. I had one of those (the 255) in my 5 and it got old real quick.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 06:26 PM
  #17  
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From: Joisey Shore
Originally Posted by evosweens1
by o2 dump do you mean the o2 housing ?
Yes, and o2 dump replaces the o2 housing and diverts the waste gate gases out a separate pipe then the exhaust gases. This helps eliminate boost creep and boost spike.

http://www.maperformance.com/maperfo...2h-ss-evo.html
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 03:52 PM
  #18  
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I read that those dumps can cause idle problems and the car dying occasionaly? is it really necessary too have for what I am trying to accomplish? and after a little more research can I push the stock turbo up too like 23 psi and still get atleast 350psi without too much reliability issues?
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 04:05 PM
  #19  
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From: Holding over the VOR
Originally Posted by evosweens1
I read that those dumps can cause idle problems and the car dying occasionaly? is it really necessary too have for what I am trying to accomplish? and after a little more research can I push the stock turbo up too like 23 psi and still get atleast 350psi without too much reliability issues?
M8... read through my post earlier.

Most tuners will run the stock turbos up to 25psi, or around there. O2 dumps aren't necessary... they're just another option. There was recently (maybe 2 weeks ago) a thread about O2 dumps and wastegates. I posted a good explanation of the benefits in there. I'd suggest checking it out.

Driveability is personal preference. Idling at 1400 RPMs may be ok for some, but not others. Loud cabin noises, ok for some, not others. Its important to talk with a tuner (a couple actually) and tell them your goals, and see what advice they have to offer for you to reach them. Some may tell you stuff you won't like, others may not.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 05:55 PM
  #20  
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I did... and I took it for a grain of salt like you said I am just still reading people's opinions and doing my research on those and just straight up research on what I would really want..
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 06:31 PM
  #21  
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From: Holding over the VOR
Originally Posted by evosweens1
I did... and I took it for a grain of salt like you said I am just still reading people's opinions and doing my research on those and just straight up research on what I would really want..
lol Good work then m8. That was err.... uhhh... a trick question! You passed!
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 06:57 PM
  #22  
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Thank you kind sir lol
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 07:17 PM
  #23  
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Well... This is going to be a long one...


Originally Posted by evosweens1
(My car already has an intake and tbe)
FP Green ported w/ 18psi wastegate actuator (I don’t want to stray too far from stock and I heard the FP reds have some reliability issues)
You can easily make more than 400 on that green and you could of easily made about 350 on the stock turbo. Its seen here all the time.
Reliability Issues with an FP RED? Ummm Who told you that one? The FP green, Red and Black are some of the most reliable stock frame turbos on the market!
Originally Posted by evosweens1
Ported and Coated Stock Mani
UICP,LICP, and Front Mount ( A good brand too go with would be great, I read 3" is best for daily upgrade?)
Walboro 255 fuel pump
AMS Small Battery Kit
If necessary to get the power I am looking to get these are next on the part List:

S1 Cams
Cam Gears
New belts
APR Head Studs
Do you have these or you don’t have them yet? Well if you don’t you will definitely need the fuel pump. It’s on you if you want to change the intercooler piping. If you do, you are most likely going to need to change to a small battery like you listed about. A lot of intercooler piping are made for small batter kits.

Don’t waste your money on the S1's, Just get the S2's and do new dual valve springs and you will be fine. I have the dual spring beehives with the S2's and I rev up to 8,400RPM making power all the way up(powered by the RED BTW).

Cam gears are not necessary

I would do a new head gasket and new head studs. Will be able to hold it together more once you start getting into higher boost/HP levels.
Originally Posted by evosweens1
And outside of that these mods will be added as well:

Boost Gauge
A/F Wideband
Electronic Boost Controller
Turbo Timer
Shifter Bushings (Under Hood and Base)

And the final thing for these mods is the tune:

Tactrix Cable w/ AMS Flash
Looks good for this part!

If you don’t have the money right away, You could always just get a Manual boost controller. Nothing wrong with those, and personally (just my opinion) they are more reliable.

for the tactrix cable, If you’re not going to be doing your own tuning. Theres no need to buy one. When you go get your car tuned your tuner should have his own cable. That should save you between 100-200 bucks.

Also.. AMS? You planning a road trip? You have Buschur down the street from you! Go get a tune from him! lol Saves you the time and money... literelly because AMS is f*cking expensive! Been there done that and it will never happen again....




Just my 2 cents....
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 08:27 AM
  #24  
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S1's are definitely not a waste of money. You also have to consider the massive increase in price when adding the valvesprings, retainers and a large install bill. S1's can gain 30-35 whp and wtq over the stock cam.

To people saying you can easily make 350whp on a stock turbo, it really depends. You won't make that much power on a mustang dyno on pump gas with a stock turbo.

You're in Ohio. Call Buschur, tell them what you want, ask what it will take.
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 08:32 AM
  #25  
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kelford 272, IX turbo, injectors, e85.

make some good power on that.
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 12:44 PM
  #26  
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Boltz what is your real name? I live in STC for a long time. My name is Jason Swaney. I drove the 99 White Turbo Integra LS
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 11:16 AM
  #27  
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Just ordered some basic stuff yesterday. AMS shifter bushings, under hood and base. Works short throw shifter with works weighted shift knob!!
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