man that's nasty. it's unreal seeing something like that. i automatically think theres going to be a loud explosion when something revs like that lol. that's a beautiful thing though, do want.

 

Youd be surprised where your income taxes go. Government could survive without it.

Anyway put me under the "Had no clue 4G's could spin up to 11k" people.


I agree there is def. a wow factor with alot of their parts. I'll stick with what i can afford. And unti lI see one of these ET cars in action this is vaporware to me (close to how the BW EFR's are becoming).

 

Will they they hellers like

Well maybe for a run or two down the drag strip if you're lucky.

Once you start pushing beyond 9,000rpm then oil starvation and cavitation becomes a problem.

I'm going to borrow some pics that Ross W took to highlight the problem area of OEM oil pump failure.



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From the pictures we can see that the steel gear shafts run in a plain bearing of the cast alloy housing! This really surprises me that this setup is good enough for a standard Evo never mind a modified car running over 9,000rpm!
This combined with the fact an unmodified OEM pump can't flow enough oil to lubricate the oil pumps gears = likely failure of the OEM pump.

I'm keen to to hear what solutions US tuners are using to remedy this problem.
I understand that port work to the oil pumps oil way can help.

There is talk in this thread about modifying the pumps to accept either DU bushes or roller bearings.
http://www.lancerregister.com/showth...=361387&page=9
As far as I know this is unproven over here. Have any of the US tuning shops tried a bearing upgrade?

The only proven to the solution that I know of is to fit a dry sump with uprated oil pump that can cope with high RPM.

-Karl

 

I've been out of town for 3-4 days. Too much crap in here to comment on from the last time I was here. Actually, truth is, nothing worth commenting on. You either get it or you don't.

I'll add this briefly. BR 2.3RPM engine, Manley billet crank, Manley TT rods, custom JE pistons will go to 9900 rpm over and over and over again, we found that out this weekend down in North Carolina. Car still runs like a top, actually it's quite simply BAD ***. Figure out the piston speeds on that compared to a 2 liter Oh, it's a stock oil pump with a crank scraper and our oil pan.....

Have a great day.

 

what about hard anodizing the housing for wear resistance.

 

you have to tell us more!

 

Kins,

That was a fresh motor? Also if you happen to know, what oil viscosity and brand was used? If it was fairly new I can tell you why it did that.

Aaron

 

thanks i deff did have a "few" lol

 

tell us all why it did that.....

 

Pump assembly prior to start up started it I would be willing to bet.

We have seen pump failures at 9k plus but it was always used oil pumps wher you cant say what it went through before it got to you. Running a good 20-50 with the pressure under control (i.e. 100 or under), no starvation, and proper pre start protocol (no I am not going to explain this) all contribute. That being said we have also seen bad pumps out of the box that never made it 5k let alone 9k.

We have multiple cars and multiple pumps that have survived 9k+ plus for a long period of time and 11k on occasion. The White Evo has never lost an oil pump for reference, and in all the years that Jeff has been running he lost exactly one that we couldnt account for. When I say that I mean we have had engine failures that put stuff through the pump that is not related to a pump failure. I realise that is a straight cut DSM pump but the design other than that is the same.

Aaron

 

Best thing you can do with oil pumps is have Shep do the REM ISF treatment on the gears. This will make the gears extremely smooth/polished to keep wear on the aluminum housing at a minimum.

Also, make sure you don't overtighten the timing belt or pump sprocket.

 

You know I've a lot of respect for you David but after posts like the above you sometimes come across rude and arrogant. Just saying

With regards to:

I find it very interesting that you are choosing to use a 2.3L set-up to rev to that sort of rpm. Is it a normal 2.3L stroker - 85mm piston, 150mm rod and 100mm stroke crank?

I'm also interested to why heavy rods like Manley Turbo Tuffs have been chosen for a high revving set-up. Is it because of your relationship with Manley and the deals you can pass on to your customers and make money off?

Surely the combination of less than ideal rod ratio and heavy con rods are going to punish the bearings, pistons and bores?

Just curious that's all.

 

oh christ, here we go with the "heavy" turbo tuff rod. do you know how that "heavy" rod compares in weight to a stock rod?

 

Hi John,

I could't say for sure as I don't know for sure.

I would guess it the oil pump off Ross W's silver VI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHv0o9xuJqQ

If it is then it's not seen many miles and I'm sure it's been primed properly

I can ask Ross for the details you have requested.

 

Why yes I do.

OEM rods on an Evo 8 have a minimum weight of 618/9g

150mm Manley Turbo Toughs tip the scales at 675g.

By comparison a 150mm Carillo Pro H beam weighs only 566g.