Has anyone experienced this? Title says it all, and the first comment in the video explains everything in detail. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated

 

you need a tune. hit up tscomptuned for remote tuning.

 

Haha... I love this guy.

I actually plan to lol. I have a friend on Island that already deals with them. Good results is all I see.

I actually did some small things and the car had some small but better moments. I changed the o-ring on the intank pump. Also put some Teflon on the adjustment screw on the FPR. The idle and start up got significantly better.

So I believe there is a leak in the fuel system that's causing the issue. Possibly the fuel filter, so I just ordered a fuel filter kit from ExtremePSI... Hopefully that should do the trick.

 

could be a vacuum leak some where. cause similar issues as yours.

 

yeah a vacuum leak will cause a rough idle.

 

So.........it's 2015, New Year With New Problems

So here’s the latest Novela Chapter. Apparently the issue for the rough idle was caused by the CAS taking a poop. Logged the ECU and it through a code. Changing this out should’ve solve all my issues.

NOT!

At one point the car didn't even want to start. A friend and I checked all the timing marks to make sure everything was mechanically timed. Everything Checked out perfect! The timing marks all lined up, but still no victory. I even rotated the motor to set it to TDC, lined up the CAS with the little groove and put it back in. NOTHING! We swapped AEM gauges just to make sure mine’s didn’t malfunction. My sensor is brand new. It turned out to be ok. We even swapped in another EVO 8 ECU and re-flashed it…you guessed it…nothing. I gave it a few weeks so I could calm down.

About three weeks later I called up a good friend who bought along an Electrical Mechanic. They came along and we hooked the car up to a truck. They ended up just playing with the CAS a little more than I did, and what do you know…it starts. IT STARTS! But guess what… it dies in 3 seconds. FREAKING AWESOME! Even if you rev the car it dies in 3 seconds. Mid rev and blehhh, just dies. The AFR’s are still stupid lean (17+ to --) and at one point we got a puff of white smoke through the air filter, which was after 5 or so back to back starts. The good thing is, is that the rough idle is now gone. Back to the drawing board (-_-).

The car seems to be getting fuel because the plugs get fouled. The car is defiantly getting current, with/without jumping the car. Brand new spark plugs are in, and yes they’re gapped. However, I’m under the impression that the fuel pumps are losing current (lean AFR’s). And since ISC’s cause idle issues, that is also a focal point. Checked for leaks. Their is one on the throttle body, but nothing that will cause the car to behave the way it is.

All of that being said. Three things that I’m going to mod/change:

1. Swap back in my OEM ISC.
2. Rewire the battery.
3. Put in a few more grounds in the trunk.
3. Rewire the fuel pumps.

If anyone has any other ideas to help. Please don’t hold back.

 

Has the car ever run well on an Evo 8 ecu? If not, are you sure the wiring was done correctly. Lancer register has all the pin out information.

 

The car has been running the Evo 8 ECU for 3 years, so yes the car ran fine. And yes again, the wiring was done correctly. Also, everything that was needed has been put in: Evo 8 MAF, Evo 8 pigtail and Evo 8 knock sensor

 

Does anybody have any insight on this?

 

Got A little done last night.

1. Swap back in my OEM ISC.
I'll determine if this needs to be done once the car starts.

2. Rewire the battery.
With Marine 6 awg this is about 98% done. The engine bay is finished. I just need to crimp on the terminal for the end that goes to the battery.

3. Put in a few more grounds in the trunk.
This is about 95% done. I also used marine grade for the ground. I swapped out the "audio" cable that I originally had. Going to put a few more ground around the trunk and call it a day.

3. Rewire the fuel pumps.
This is about 80% done. The grounds on the relays are soldered up and mounted. The power supply from the relays are measured and cut. The inline fuses are also ready to be installed.

 

VICTORY!!!!

1. Swap back in my OEM ISC.
Doesn't need to be done.

2. Rewire the battery.
100% done.

3. Put in a few more grounds in the trunk.
This is about 98% done. I just need to purchase some more wire+terminals and add a few more grounds throughout the car.

3. Rewire the fuel pumps.
This is about 100% done.

Now...what was the problem you might ask? Brace yourselves! The connector for the CAS was bad.

We tested the connector and were only getting results from the BIG red and the BIG white wires, the small red and small black were not giving any signal at all. Luckily I didnt have to go too far. I had a spare engine harness so all I had to do was cut and solder. That's exactly what we did.

So to conclude.

Things to check for idling/stalling issues:

1. If your CAS is throwing a code, test the connector before anything else.
2. Test the coolant temp sensor.
3. Test the ISC to make sure it's functioning correctly.
4. Check for boost leaks.
5. Checking for exhaust leaks wont hurt either.
6. Test your fuel pump(s). I'd recommend to anyone to just go ahead and rewire their pump(s) to get constant voltage. Do this and you WILL definitely see a fuel pressure increase .
7. Change the intank pump sock.
8. While you're in their check for debris in the tank.
9. Make sure your fuel filter isn't clogged.
10. Check the injectors.
11. Check your spark plugs to make sure they aren't fouled.
12. Test the ignitor plug & sensor.
13. Check you're plug wires. Make sure you're getting spark.
14. Check your timing.
15. Check that you are getting the required voltage where it's needed.


KEY:
ISC = Idle Stepper Control
CAS = Cam Angle Sensor