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Old May 25, 2024 | 11:22 AM
  #31  
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gah I hated the short time I had with haltech and that password BS
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Old May 25, 2024 | 12:25 PM
  #32  
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Maybe try swapping to a stock ECU? It's a stretch, but if the car happens to fire up for just even a second, that'll at least point it to possibly being the Haltech ECU.
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Old May 25, 2024 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Chrispy0530
Maybe try swapping to a stock ECU? It's a stretch, but if the car happens to fire up for just even a second, that'll at least point it to possibly being the Haltech ECU.
I don't have stock ecu. Even if I did I wasn't that good with the software enough to even get my setup even remotely close to make it start
I am starting to wonder if it's the coils itself. Maybe the software was upgraded and the didn't I wasn't told about it and it fried the coils
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Old May 28, 2024 | 04:02 PM
  #34  
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Ok here is an update. I got new cam sensor in as I reported on Friday, I had a few mins between rain showers after work today and I did some poking around. I have power to the coils. one pin 1 I have 12v (battery is low and on charger) and I have 5v on pin 5. Both check out so coils are getting power. I need to buy a spark tester to actually see if I am getting spark because this phone bull**** is getting annoying. I did find some settings with ignition and fuel I changed to when the car ran during break in but were for e85 and still no start. Plug is still dry so I started looking and thinking about does my bp racing dper use the factory fuel pump relays being it has its one separate relay box? Does anyone have any idea if that is the case or not. I did reach out to bp racing about this so hopefully tomorrow I will get an answer on that. If that is the case and it does, then I will replace them as necessary.

Another thing I am noticing as well. Idk for sure but I do notice when I crank and fuel pumps kick on I get 45 psi of fuel pressure, ok pumps work but the min I stop cranking it goes down to 0 in like 3 seconds or so is that normal? I mean I 2 brand new pumps and there is litterly 2" of hose that basically holds the pump to the sending unit. being the pump kinda sits in the barb for the sending unit itself, so basically hose is there to make sure no leaks. I looked at those lines and they seemed ok with no noticeable holes or anything. So I will ask is this normal? I know the check valves in the pumps should be good being they are brand new but that don't mean **** I know.

Last edited by CurseDSM; May 28, 2024 at 04:19 PM.
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Old May 28, 2024 | 07:21 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by CurseDSM
Ok here is an update. I got new cam sensor in as I reported on Friday, I had a few mins between rain showers after work today and I did some poking around. I have power to the coils. one pin 1 I have 12v (battery is low and on charger) and I have 5v on pin 5. Both check out so coils are getting power. I need to buy a spark tester to actually see if I am getting spark because this phone bull**** is getting annoying. I did find some settings with ignition and fuel I changed to when the car ran during break in but were for e85 and still no start. Plug is still dry so I started looking and thinking about does my bp racing dper use the factory fuel pump relays being it has its one separate relay box? Does anyone have any idea if that is the case or not. I did reach out to bp racing about this so hopefully tomorrow I will get an answer on that. If that is the case and it does, then I will replace them as necessary.

Another thing I am noticing as well. Idk for sure but I do notice when I crank and fuel pumps kick on I get 45 psi of fuel pressure, ok pumps work but the min I stop cranking it goes down to 0 in like 3 seconds or so is that normal? I mean I 2 brand new pumps and there is litterly 2" of hose that basically holds the pump to the sending unit. being the pump kinda sits in the barb for the sending unit itself, so basically hose is there to make sure no leaks. I looked at those lines and they seemed ok with no noticeable holes or anything. So I will ask is this normal? I know the check valves in the pumps should be good being they are brand new but that don't mean **** I know.
I had a hard start issue I would have fuel pressure at the rail and after 1 min it would bleed off to 0.

Turned out it was leaky injector(s) or some kind of injector issue. I started experiencing this after leaving e85 in the tank for too long. I verified this by sending them back to ID for cleaning and testing afterwards everything was fine.

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Old May 29, 2024 | 12:34 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by jagboy125
I had a hard start issue I would have fuel pressure at the rail and after 1 min it would bleed off to 0.

Turned out it was leaky injector(s) or some kind of injector issue. I started experiencing this after leaving e85 in the tank for too long. I verified this by sending them back to ID for cleaning and testing afterwards everything was fine.
Interesting, maybe I will send them out for cleaning. I haven't run e85 in my car since December and that was a 50/50 mix cause my cars flex tune wouldn't run without it lol. But its just odd that it would just not start after a week of straight pump gas being put in. I am still not crossing off its something in the tune that I cannot see but idk i'm not a tuner. I even fooled around with my break in crank and prime settings with the injectors from my break in tune and still nothing. Maybe I have a leak in tank from my dper the tiny little hose that goes to the sending unit. When I inspected those they looked fine. Idk I am at a loss but I will look at this and see if maybe this is something I am overlooking.
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Old May 29, 2024 | 04:04 PM
  #37  
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Well today is the day I think I find part of the problem. I have no idea why but I decided to buy a ignition tester. So with that said put it on #1 start things up and no light, swap to #2 no spark, #3 light comes on so spark in #3, swap to #4 and light comes on. So it seems I have 2 dead coils.
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Old May 29, 2024 | 04:43 PM
  #38  
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cool. I actually bought 4 of those testers. I haven't used them yet lol
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Old May 29, 2024 | 06:30 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by ViciousLSD
cool. I actually bought 4 of those testers. I haven't used them yet lol
Lol for 8 bucks it has helped me a lot in the 20 mins I used it and confirmed what I was thinking about coils being bad.
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Old Jun 4, 2024 | 03:46 PM
  #40  
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Well I ended up ordering 2 new Haltech coils and same issue. Coils are not the problem. Next thing to replace is crank sensor one on the way will update soon.
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Old Jun 5, 2024 | 08:23 AM
  #41  
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I would still just have the injectors flow tested. Seems like a little easier double check then the crank sensor.
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Old Jun 5, 2024 | 08:42 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by thepoint4life23
I would still just have the injectors flow tested. Seems like a little easier double check then the crank sensor.
Injectors aren't the issue. It is highly unlikely that all 4 would be clogged all at the same time especially with such large injectors and no e85 run through them for over. Month. I did pull the plugs and they were interesting. 1 and 2 were clean with no smell of fuel or very little maybe residual but 3 and 4 were black. I have no clue what that's from unless that's the starting fluid I've been using but not sure.
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Old Jun 10, 2024 | 11:55 PM
  #43  
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@CurseDSM I have the same problem now. a wire broke on the #4 coil during autox. drove the car a bit to park it closer the entrance of the venue. got a flatbed home. drove it a few feet into the garage. before I knew it was a broken wire, tried starting it again and got it to run 2x. i think i heard a pop like a bug zapper sound then it never started again. I fixed the broken wire, no dice. changed plugs. no dice. fuses look ok. tomorrow I'll check some more, maybe check power to coil then bench test each coil
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Old Jun 11, 2024 | 12:40 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by ViciousLSD
@CurseDSM I have the same problem now. a wire broke on the #4 coil during autox. drove the car a bit to park it closer the entrance of the venue. got a flatbed home. drove it a few feet into the garage. before I knew it was a broken wire, tried starting it again and got it to run 2x. i think i heard a pop like a bug zapper sound then it never started again. I fixed the broken wire, no dice. changed plugs. no dice. fuses look ok. tomorrow I'll check some more, maybe check power to coil then bench test each coil
That does seem weird. I don't hear any of that on mine. I have checked everything you have with voltage to the coil and plug wires etc. Problem is most of my stuff is newer. Even with 2 brand new coils it does the same thing. I am in the process of changing my crank sensor but I just need to find the time to do it. I think my problem lies there. I have power everywhere and there is no reason this car should not start. I even traced back to the Haltech to make sure I have power to the wires coming out of the ecu to the individual coils which I could do at the coil themselves. But my crank sensor is origional and I think thats where my problem lies. I wont know till I can get this stupid super dampner off. I have to wait for some stuff to come in so I can get it off and then I will know for sure.
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Old Jun 11, 2024 | 04:04 PM
  #45  
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Well a small update, I got my crank bolt out finally. After trying to do it by hand I realized hey stupid if you turn the wheel you can get your impact in and break it free. Sure as **** turn the wheel and impact goes in and it comes out. Now I had to figure out how to get the stupid super damper off. Again I am over thinking it. I had to order a t40+ torx bit 7 bucks and 12 bucks to ship it wtf. So with that said that should be the last thing I need to get the t belt cover off and finally get something done.
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