I'm inches away from our freezer in the garage. extra warm and I'm a slow worker lol
so I just timed the belt and installed the minimum parts to nervously test-start the car. it fired up like a race car! so my issue was definitely just the intake cam gear skipping 3 teeth while my #4 coil wire was broken. I'm not sure if I should replace my timing tensioner/belt, need to prep for weekend autox

i got to use my extra home depot bolts

 

Nice I'm glad urs fired right up. I'm pretty sure mine is the crank sensor but there's a part of me that is saying what happens when u get it all put back together and that didn't solve the problem ya know.

 

gotta ask... is your timing right on the marks? would evoscan show rpm if crank sensor is broken?

btw i think its quite risky to pull the harmonic balancer. the 9 bolts actually sandwich 2 pulleys (silver-side and black-side). when I was installing it on the gear i had to take it off by hand a few times since the holes arent perfectly lining up. it turns out every time I remove it, the silver side wants to stay behind I had to hit the silver side with a mallet a number of times but i'm not sure if i pushed it all the way in. i've reinstalled my old 9 torx bolts but I'm planning to get some short hex bolts from HD/Lowes and will torque it down, then I will replace it with the new torx bolts when they arrive. this thing is a pita

 

No my timing marks don't line up like on a 2 liter. My dowel pins line up on the marks and I have a second set of marks that lined up horizontal line in the old dsm days that's about it. I did not do the ti.inf on this car a shop did but that is what I am seeing. As far as the crank sensor idk. I can see rpm on the Haltech when I try to crank my engine over but like I have said I only get cylinders 3 and 4 to fire and that's it. So I ma going to be pissed when I swap this crank sensor over and the car does the same thing cause I will be out of ideas of what to do.

 

Is it stock wasted spark ignition? Sounds like crank trigger/sensor, maybe crank walk. Did you disconnect the clutch switch for the starter?i did have an issue in the past where i had to smash 2 washers to lift my crank sensor a little bit. I had 3 crank sensors to swap back then and nothing worked until the washers were put in.

 

I have ign1-a coils so it's constant spark. Yes clutch switch is disengaged bei g I was told better for the bearings on the crank. The car just suddenly stopped worki g when I had put a new map in it for a return and everything went haywire. Old tunes don't work either which means it has something g to do with the car itself not the tune.

 

Well I am about to give up. I got my puller all bolted up only for it to hit the ****ing frame. I got it to give me some area to get the puller to clear the frame and the only thing that happens is the crank turns and nothing else happens . Idk what else to do, I am frustrated, pissed off and I am running out of time before the shootout. I am to the point I may just take it to the local shop and have them try to get it off being its so frozen on there and I dont have the tools to get it off.

 

@CurseDSM didnt you have to lower the engine to remove the serpentine idler pulley? the ati damper would need it to be that low too. you can do it!
maybe you should put it in 5th gear or pass a bar thru the puller and use the CV as the stopper

 

Yep I sure did but with solid motor mounts it doesn't move a whole hell of a lot. Problem is I cant take my wheel off being I have broken lug nuts, and with that its not allowing me a whole lot of room under the car. Everything is in the way and I cant get my wrench in the area I need to get that puller to do its job. Its frustrating. So what I did was instead of using the wrench between the pulley and the puller I added an extension to the rod the puller uses and I tried to pull it out from the other side and all it does is just spins the crank. My driveway is roughly dirt and its been raining on and off so its soft so even if I get a jack under the car it just sinks in the mud.

 

post pics man. i'm imagining your ati puller is round so it meets the frame early. if you have the 3point like the one from HF then it can clear the frame. if needed, shorter 2.5" bolts will make the puller be closer to the pulley or longer bolts so the puller is outside the frame

 

The problem is the engine doesn't sit low enough for the puller to clear the frame. I was told to take out the front motor mount as well but with a mud driveway that is going to be difficult being I have no way of safely getting jack stands under the car without it sinking on me. Another problem is I am using 2.5 bolts and with the clearance issue I have to screw them in all the way and by doing that it gives me enough clearance to get that thing off. But It doesn't give me any room to get anything on the nut that allows the puller to do its job. There is a nut that goes between the puller and the damper and I need to get a wrench or something between them to pull of the damper. If I go smaller screws, that may work Idk I would have to look at it but I am to the point i have tried everything and I have no room to really get under it and do the things I need to do. I will try to take a pic for you when I get home from work today so you guys can see what I see and maybe we can come up with a better plan.

 

This is where I need to be in the pic. I can't even get the cover off my car. Maybe the bolt I had to drill out is still holding onto that piece. Once I get that off I can get the timing cover off and thats all I need. Idk why this is being such a pita.

 

I dont know man. maybe use concrete pads for the jackstands, remove oilfilter & control arm/tierod bolts so you can swing the wheel a bit more? i was thinking of doing this to install a new alternator
I'm about to redo my tbelt since my new parts are here, also it jump a tooth again i think this 2degree retard from the ER oil pump gear is giving more slack thats why it skips during starting. MFing mods

 

yeah thats not going to happen. I don't have the time to do what little ive done and its been over a month since I started this. I do have some good news though. I did finish breaking my lower timing belt cover. Now I can spend more money I don't have getting a new one if they aren't discontinued. All that breaking and the thing still won't budge. So idk what else to do since nothing is working and I only have like an hr a day to work on this **** I mine as well call a shop who has better tools to get this ****ing thing off.

 

thats really weird if it wont come off once the center bolt is removed... that and friction is the only thing holding it to the crank. sorry bro