uicp all buttoned up. I kinda wish I would have redone my wrap job on the pipe though while it was off.


Not a fan of having RS pedals and now having to put a stupid looking plastic one in but hey its in and I now have drive by wire.

 

What are the next steps in troubleshooting the car?

 

Well we are to the point a lot had to change. Why I am posting new things going on the car. I have a bad wire going to my fuel pump that the wire came out of the connector itself which was a self inflicted wound. I tried to crimp it back in the best I could, but with not having the correct tools it wasn't making connection. So this has been fixed I now have fuel. We did find my injectors were clogged a good amount from sitting with e85 in the tank. I ran pump gas though it, and filled my tank but not enough ran though the system to help. Another thing was my crank trigger plate. As seen in the pic of the crank pully once they got it off, you can see where it grabbed and made a ring around the inside of the pully. In one spot its about .010 dug in and the rest of it froze and was basically welded onto the crank pully. The dark ring is where it basically welded itself to the damn pully and that was a huge problem being it knocked everything offline.


Other things, they have fixed is my iat wire was frayed and broken. I have a new Iat pigtail on the way. Another big one was grounds to the system. Shop reported I had only 2 grounds in the entire system so those will be added properly as well. I know many says grounding kits are useless but yes they do help specially on a Haltech. One thing I have to ask is if I have a hole in my intake fuel lines. I had noticed I wasn't keeping fuel pressure at all and it was going out of the system pretty fast. I know that could be an issue. Other then that there are some small things like relocating my fuel filter from under the car to the engine bay. Wtf on that one. I did have 4 broken wheel studs from some dumb *** (me) tightening my lugnuts to tight with a impact instead of by tq wrench. (I was in a hurry to get to the shootout I'll admit) I have new arp wheel studs ready to go on the car. Tune wise the last tuner that touched the car did not have half the Haltech stuff set up correctly. I cant say this was most of the problem but I think a lot of it other then the crank trigger stuff being wacked. I was set up for stock ignition when I clearly told him I have Ign-1a coils and some other stuff for my fuel setup was incorrect. Other then that, thats pretty much all I know. I am just waiting on them to get my work done and to get it back on the dyno.

I know some future things being I don't wanna slow them down is I wanna ceramic coat my exhaust mani, my dp, and my dump tubes so I can get rid of the wrap that doesn't really do its job and falls off the car 90% of the time. I know for a lot of you have been waiting to see this car up and running and making some good power but when it did I wasn't happy. I did get beat at the shootout 1st round by a way less hp car and figured the 72mm had to go. I made about 700 more whp then he did and still got my *** kicked and being it took 4 seconds between shifts, shifting fast, it just wasn't for me plus it sucked on the street.

 

Definitely good to hear you got to the bottom of everything. DBW and the 12tooth will make it feel like a totally different car.

 

I am so happy to hear that being I can't stand how it started and drove. it took forever to start and no tuner seemed to fix it. I kept on killing ics and those aren't cheap. Dbw will take care of all that, no more buying sensors and being pissed off that it donesn't idle for **** and take a month to get started. I have seen cars with 2600s idle and start 1000000000 better then mine and its like wtf. I just hope with everything they are finding the car will act like i want it to and isnt to much of a problem for them to tune. It seems every tuner i went to the car fought them left and right. I am interested as well on how this turbo acts. I cant find much info on HPT stuff and I already told my tuner 800 wheel isnt going to cut it. If I cant get at least 930 to 950 whp on it then I will sell it and go 6870. With my setup I should make those #'s but who knows. Ive been let down before lol.

 

Electrical gremlins are the worst since it always seems to lead to a never ending search. You fix one, find another. When I was planning out my build I wanted everything electrical new / future proof and some at least OEM unmolested in good condition so far that plan has worked out perfectly.

 

Yeah I totally get that but the problem is with my car I just drove to put gas in it, drove it home, and then it wouldn't start. It drove perfectly for the longest time All I did was put fuel in it and that's where the problems began. My harness isn't all that had never been touched other than this last current build. That is the weird thing is it just happened all of a sudden and now I'm chasing Gremlins.

 

Well a little bit of an update. Yesterday they got my Torque Solutions rear dif mounts on the car and the mustache bar off ready for the Buschur bar. They took car of a lot of rust in some spots and coated it to keep it from spreading or whatever that stuff does. My drive by wire is all in and works. Haltech is all pinned up ready for them to start the car. I am missing something in the front end like my valve cover that I had painted black still. Paint is drying and I am going to go over it one more time to make it look good. I am waiting on some ice blasting to take care of some rust on my core support and around my strut towers. They will be installing my lower control arm bushings in the rear today along with putting my main cross member in the rear back in place and installing the mustache bar. Other little odds and ins I replaced my head light bulbs with GTR lighting low and high beams and boy are they stupid. All the other bulbs were replaced with Diode Dynamic led bulbs as well. So now I wont have to worry about replacing bulbs anymore. I am going to hope that they are going to install my shifter this week as well and get that back together since my center council is currently out of the car. I have been debating on putting in seat lowering things but idk if I would like them or not. Idk how it will put my arm angle with the way my arm was tire up if it will be to high and steep of an angle where it will hurt my arm to shift or not. I need to find a car with a set of them in to see. Other then that still thinking about what kinda tires to put on the rpf 1's. I was going to put a set of slicks on there but idk. I know my calipers still need to be put back together and back on the car so we can do the balancing and 4 corner stuff and set the ride height as well. I have been debating on doing a 3.5 inch down pipe as well, but I wanna see what the back pressure is with this new turbo. I still need to take off the hot parts and coat them but I have to wait till i get the car back to do so. Other then that that is about it for me. Oh one more thing I need to address is my acd. I am looking to try to figure out what I need to rebuild it. Idk if the pump is just bad of if its locked up or maybe the senor is bad idk. I am going to guess pump is bad being the flange between it and the rest of the unit is cracked.

 

So I had a very similar problem where I drove the car everything was good and then no start. Fuel primes etc but nothing happens. I took the plugs out and grounded them and they would spark out side the car but not inside the engine.. added a new ground to the head and it fixed it. Could have been pure luck and coincidence but it fixed it and I never had issues again..

sucks about the tuner thing. Iv been screwed by a few in my life. I have a aem infinity and finally found someone that knows wtf they are doing. Within 5min he had the car running. Still in the process of tuning as I have issues with eating starters now for whatever reason. I didn’t read if you got a new turbo but did see you thought about a 6870.. if you need one I have a topount kit for sale lol. Good luck!!

 

Yeah I tried everything. I am adding new grounds and some new power wires from my starter and alternator for power and all new grounds all aorund. No I plan on using my 6466 but if it makes like 850 860 i may upgrade to a 6870. I know HPT says they changed from what pte use to run for center sections and all that stuff so you can run larger turbos with the same kinda spool. Idk we shall see.

 

Well it has been a bit since i had any updates. I have some new updates and I will say I am ashamed of what we found. Thankfully it wasn't as bad as it looks and it all had been taken care of.











Thankfully all most of the metal was saveable and just surface rust starting to get nasty. The stuff we couldn't save as you could see in some of the pics were cut and rewelded into place and the whole underside of the car was sprayed with rust inhibitor and then second coating of seal. I will say this added a bunch to my bill but if I didn't do this car wouldn't have made it much longer. car is 100% rust free now and everything will be color matched and corrected. I currently am debating on upgrading my dp to a full 3.5 " but tuner and I have some plans before we do that. My 3" may be enough for this turbo. I know I was way undersized with my 72mm on it. We are going to do a ram air style intake to the turbo which should be interesting. We are also deleting my acd and putting it in the trunk after that gets rebuilt. This will allow me to put a filter in that area and put it towards the turbo as well. Should be fun. Shop owner says hopefully by mid to late April car should be 100% done and tuned, we shall see.

 

Got to love road salt. Happy to see your saving the car. Good work Sir.

 

Thanks man been to long and the time I did have with it just wasn't fun

 

I need to look in and see if they may a brush on coating. I have a few spots nothing crazy i wouldn't mind cleaning and brushing on, And read diff mounts

 

They just wire wheel and sanded mine and used the spray **** on mine.