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T-Bolt Clamps (How to and list)

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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 10:03 PM
  #61  
mistergomez316's Avatar
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From: Milpitas, California
Originally Posted by TommiM
you want to get a small flat head screwdriver and pop the center head out then you can pop the whole thing out.
Thanks!
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 08:32 AM
  #62  
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From: NH
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Old May 25, 2014 | 02:15 PM
  #63  
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From: inSANeDIEGO
Bov/Dv tbolt clamps

I still have the 1.5 tbolt clamps on and they're maxed out. I'm not sure if the bov/dv connections are leaking or not. Since these clamps no longer have room for adjustment, if it does leak, I'll just replace them with the stock worm clamps. Anyone have leaking problems from using this size tbolt clamps? Thanks.

Last edited by evolutong; May 28, 2014 at 05:06 PM.
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Old May 26, 2014 | 02:24 PM
  #64  
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From: inSANeDIEGO
Btw, i have the stock 9 bov^^^

Last edited by evolutong; May 28, 2014 at 09:28 AM.
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Old May 5, 2015 | 01:28 PM
  #65  
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From: ny
So I was doing some research on replacing my stock clamps and come across this pdf from AMS Performance. They seem to argue that worm gear clamps are better and t bolt clamps may actually be detrimental. Anyone have a comment on this?
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Old May 6, 2015 | 12:00 PM
  #66  
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I don't think it would be detrimental if you use T-clamps. You could get boost leaks if you don't properly lube the hose with a water soap mixture so they properly clamp on a hose. This is because using the t-clamp will end up pinching the hose near the bolt if it doesn't slide around the hose properly. They work like v-band clamps and if they bind can cause pinching and not uniform pressure.

V-band clamps are even better but don't allow the flexibility like the other two.

I love t-clamps. Much better than worm gears and I believe easier to use. But it also depends on the quality. Both can be crappy and you wont be able to hold enough clamping unless you have some of decent quality.

With worm gears you can only use couple of times as the aluminum starts to deform and you don't get good contact between the space and bolt to tighten them. You also have to replace the lock nut on t-clamps every now and then too because after a few times removing them they wont hold as well.

To me its just preference, how much you want to spend, and the material quality you choose from. Both do the job well. Just don't over torque the t-clamp and you'll be fine.
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 11:35 AM
  #67  
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From: ny
Anyone have some tips or tricks for removing the rubber hoses (like the one that goes from the BOV to the UICP)? The others houses are very difficult to remove, but the rubber hoses seems impossible to remove... Is there something I can spray on them?
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 12:00 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Kreeker
Anyone have some tips or tricks for removing the rubber hoses (like the one that goes from the BOV to the UICP)? The others houses are very difficult to remove, but the rubber hoses seems impossible to remove... Is there something I can spray on them?
Grip the hose with channel locks where it overlaps with the piping (i.e. where the hose clamp would reside) and twist. That should break them free.
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 12:41 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by mrfred
Grip the hose with channel locks where it overlaps with the piping (i.e. where the hose clamp would reside) and twist. That should break them free.
Thanks that helped a lot !
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 12:52 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Kreeker
Thanks that helped a lot !
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