Alright EvoM...I have searched and searched and searched, all I seen on here is a bunch of people that don't know that you can install the REAR Wheel Studs WITHOUT pulling the hubs off. I REPEAT, YOU DO NOT NEED TO PULL THE REAR HUBS OFF YOUR CAR.

You can do this install with HAND TOOLS, you don't even have to remove the castle nut on the axle.

Im not going to get into full details to get you to the point of where the pics show. Just a high level set of DIY instructions. The pictures will draw a picture of exactly what you need to do to make space for the ARP studs without completely removing the hubs.

1 - Raise evo off ground.
2 - Remove wheel
3 - Remove Brembo caliper
4 - Remove brake rotor
5 - Remove the E-Brake shoes
6 - Hammer stock studs out
7 - Unbolt the wheel hub from the back, (4 Bolts here)

Nope...wont fit...


DEFINITELY WONT FIT...


2 of the 4 bolts holding the hub are seen from this view:


Do as the picture says: (pry between that stud thingy and the hub, be careful to not damage that stud thing...)


The hub will gap right where that green line is. It will be enough space to fit the ARP Studs.


Once you get the ARP studs in, make sure you pulled them all the way through, then re-assemble EVERYTHING in reverse order.

E-Brake shoes
Brake rotor
Brembo caliper
then Wheel back on and put the car back on the ground...then have fun doing the other side too!!! LOL

Good luck!

 

Nice write up! This is how I managed to install my rear studs as well

 

What tool did you use to get off the four 14mm hub bolts? Not enough space there to get any of my breakers or impact in there. Help!

 

i just use a box wrench normally, hammer assisted. my thin walled socket fit there too.
you dont need to touch the e-brake parts. you do have to remove the axle nut. i hope your hub hasn't separated from the bearing yet. but get some cheap hubs before doing this especially if its been a long time since the hub was removed. or put the new studs on the new hubs prior to the working on the car.

 

Thanks for the reply on an old thread. As per usual, I got it like 5 minutes after posting. Was coming on here to say that. Definitely need to get creative with two box wrenches to make a breaker. These are tight! Also had to turn the rear wheel a bit to get the axle clamp out from in front of the bolt on one of them. Also needed a thin walled socket so used a small 3/8 on the 2 of them with a tiny ratchet and a small pipe (home made breaker bar).

I am mainly surprised to see that my wheel stud installer bearing tool won’t work on these rear hubs since it won’t sit flush. Need to use the old school washer trick.

 

At first I tried regular box wrench hammer assisted but they did not budge. Mine were untouched since factory. No idea what the torque is. Did you retorque them to any spec? I did not have any wheel hub to bearing separation. I did however take off the e brake assembly because I thought that was needed first. I guess not. Will try on the other side leaving that in tact.

 

i used to use just a spare trashable nut (I throw away 19mm wheel nuts) but hammering with a 1/2 pin from the back works better. make sure you retighten your wheel nuts a few more times after a few miles drive

 

No I dont torque them, just a few hammer assisted hits. apply grease on the axle and hub contact areas while youre at it

 

Nice. I will try the same since I can't fit my torque wrench in there. Apply grease to the axle threads, where the nut goes? Or behind the hub itself when you pull it out?

 

a little bit everywhere, especially hub to knuckle, axle splines and a little bit on the threads. water can get trapped in there. a little grease on those moving parts on the e-brake too while youre there

 

Cool will do. Doing the other side now and I am trying to leave the ebrake assembly stuff intact and remove the wheel bearing only. Where do you suggest prying from? I got it out a few mm by prying a bit from the center stud thing but don’t have a hub puller to get it the rest of the way. On the other side since I had already taken the ebrake assembly off, I was able to pry from the hub mounting plate itself which is covered by the ebrake assembly.

 

Nevermind that.. I got it off when I went back to work on it. You are correct, the extended studs can be put on without touching the parking brake assembly. You just need to finesse the hub off. You can pry a little bit via the parking brake stud in the top middle, to get it started. Then I sort of pulled the hub by hand little by little by half’s. Top half, then bottom half, until it came free. Thanks for the advice! The ebrake spring assembly was enough of an annoyance on one side haha

 

thats where the grease would help in the future. I change hub assemblies quite frequently and I have not struggled in a long time, but I believe you can put the bolts back and tap the hub out.
and yeah that retaining washer for the spring is a PITA. also balancing the e-brake between the 2 hubs