oh man... please read the whole thread, depends on what kit you get... stoptech tests all their stuff to stay in balance with stock. otherwise you gotta be careful how you upgrade things. keep same size rotors front and back if you keep your brembo calipers or upgrade wtih the same ratio kinda thing... if anything just make sure your rears don't overbrake and make sure not to overload the front wheels by making the rears dinky. abs will work... but on certain applicatoins you're locking the tires at gorss speeds and the abs is gonna cause violent responses so you wanna learn to brake more modulating, always back off abs unless you're in wet or dirt in which case the coputer thinks better than you do.

easy to say brembo gt brake kit... but it's big and heavy, not to mention expensive as hell.

bdidddy... yeah i know people running titan kais... no one that i know of turning their calipers black though... what do you mean by black? in any case... have you fixed the problem since... that sounds like really bad fade and what not... mabye you didn't get your lines bled thoroughly or something?

 

YO MAMA'S!!! sorry its late and i just watched aqua teen hunger force so im goofy. I've always been a huge fan of Wilwood racing brake systems. They just seem to BITE!!

...sorry im corny too

 

RA1's.

 

The calipers are really, really dark....almost black. The config we were running is really hard on brakes, but I seemed to be the only one that really cooked them. I brake late and the car stopped for the first half of the session. The second half was me left foot tapping them towards the second half of the straights to make sure they were there, and then braking much earlier and barely getting the speed off. If I didn't tap them a few times they would go straight to the floor and didn't slow the car at all. I'll try them once more with different pads (ferodo's or paget). I'm not sure a big brake kit will help that much, and I'll have to run some ducting either way.

 

Titan Kai's are a great track day pad - especially for the money. So much so that I just bought about 10 sets for my father's MR. Two things though, I noticed the pad comes a little thinner compared to others (Carbotech) limiting pad life by a bit. Manufacturers usually do this to have only one part number for both the STI and the EVO. STi rotors run a bit thicker than the EVO (from what I hear cause I won't come within 10' from one ), requiring less pad material to be able to squezee the pads in. A store that sells carbotech pads down hear only stocks STi pads for both cars to limit inventory, although carbotech offers both thickness pads. Secondly, I noticed a bit of pad brake fade while on Hoosiers - none on street tires, so I'd compare this pad to a Pagid blue or a Ferodo 2500. For a full on race pad go with Project Mu's 777.

My 0.02

 

brake tapping i for getting rid of pad knock back isn't it? doesn' that mean your rotors are too big?

or did it get some pressure built up becuase there was air in your lines? i'm so confused, i've never heard of anything this bad happening.

can i get the full setup so i can evaluate more clearly...

 

Tapping the brake to "pump" them up a little before asking them to actually work, it's what I do.

The fluid, pad, and caliper got too hot...way too hot...so tapping them brought a little life back into them, very little...boiled the fluid maybe.

RA1's, Motul, Titan Kais, Ohlins, slotted rotors.... Go figure.

 

http://www.advancedcooling.com/index.html

 

The guys on tuner transformation upgraded the fronts to stoptechs and seemed really pleased with the performance. I have almost always heard good things about stoptech brakes.

 

hey guys... some news, hope i'm putting this in the right place...


Z1 Performance
to me
More options 11/29/04
The straight 6 2 piece rotors for the Evo are 20 lbs each, and these are available.

Adam
Z-1 Performance, Inc.
www.z1auto.com
(631)863-3820 Tel.
(631)863-3821 Fax

stoptech fronts are 13.6
baer two piece non floating fronts are 16
baer two piece floating rears 11.7
stasis engineering front full floating 16.5

stock front is 25.5

 

i'd like sizes of rotors too =) cause size matters hahaha

 

all those are stock except for the larger than stock stoptechs. those are easily found at rre.

 

Nobody seems to have covered this, but the mass of your rotor is actually quite important.

In the suspension of your car, there's the SPRUNG mass and the UNSPRUNG mass. The sprung mass is simply the things that sit on your springs, or more simly, the things that would go crashing to the ground if your coilovers vanish. The unsprung bit is the rest, which in most cars are wheels, tyres, wheel hubs, wish bones, etc. + your brake calipers, pads and rotors.

The unsprung mass is not exactly directly linked to your braking performance, but to the performance of your suspension. The mass of the unsprung weight gives rise to its inertia. As the wheel tracks the road surface (like a needle in a record player) this inertia limits how quickly it responds to the road surface. Most simply put, the greater the unsprung mass, the less effective you suspension becomes.

The larger rotor is also likely to have higher rotational inertia (flywheel effect) which will effect your steering. When you turn your wheels right, for example, a rotating wheel will actually ty to lean left, doing really confusing things to the suspension. The greater the inertia of your rotor, the greater this effect.

There are also secondary effects. A rotor with greater inertia will also reduce your acceleration and worsen your braking. But the effect on acceleration is very slight while the effect on braking is overcome by the fact that you can pump more torque into a larger diameter disc.

What you have got to consider is the combined mass of the wheel+tyre+rotor+caliper compared to the stock version. More correctly, you should compare their combined rotational inertia against the stock setup.

Also, with the rotor, a larger rotor of the same design will weight more but also have more surface area (up in the same proportion) so you're cooling the same, pretty much. Assuming the they're the same thickness etc. Funnily enough a heavier rotor will not heat up so much under the same braking as a lighter one. The problem is the caliper, which by the looks of them won't have a greater surface area as they get heavier. This is a problem as when it is heated up, it won't cool down as quickly.

My personal plan it to change my rotors first (Project Mu), keeping the stock calipers.

Btw, Project Mu Titan Kai's are great. I'm installing the new LevelMax900 (also Project Mu) on my DC5 soon. The Titan Kai's produce a crazy amount of dust and I heard the LevelMax900 is even worse in this respect. Ther're non-asbestos so I'm not too worried. At least I hope they're non-asbestos.

 

Sorry for the thread resurrection, but this was the only comparative brake system thread I found on EvoM. I have a question for the experts: assuming that both options cost the same, use comparable quality pads, calipers, etc, what is the better brake upgrade?

1) going from 4-pot to 6-pot, same rotor size
2) going from 320mm rotor to 332mm rotor, stay with 4-pot

Car is used for auto-x / rally-x, and open track days. Any opinions?

 

What is the name of this kit, or the name of the finish used on the calipers?