I live on a dirt road and I am looking to buy megan coils street. Do you think I would have problems? I do drive like 5 miles an hour on my dirt road.

 

they are NOT rally shocks, you will need a kidney and hip replacement if you try to rally them.

If you trug along slowly on a gravel/dirt road, you'll be perfectly fine. Occasionally check the upper mounts to make sure they're staying snug, loose could equal dirt ingestion.

 

yeah I am not going to rally the car. I can't help I live on a dirt road but I do drive very very slow.

 

I bought my car used with the megan racing coilovers. They probably only have 2000 miles on them. They also seem to be making a light clunking noise from the back. Do i have to pull out the whole coilover to tighten them or can i just do it while they are still inside of the car? But so far they seem to be decent coilover for the price.

 

I too still have a very faint clunk but I'm not sure what it is, I still haven't managed to get it on jacks to start checking everything.

Here's what I'd do:
1: Open the trunk and remove the adjustment knob (turn the silver knurled ring just below it, the whole adjuster comes out as a unit).

2: Stick a good high quality hardened 5mm hex inside (you DON'T want to strip it out!), you'll feel it click in. Use (I think 17mm) wrench and tighten down the nut. The hex keeps the shock from rotating. The front's won't rotate like this. If the tophats are clunking, this should fix it.

3: Get the car up on jackstands.

4: Remove the rear wheels and tighten the lockrings.

5: tighten the lower swingarm bolt. If there's movement fore/aft, you may need a washer in there. I bought a large diameter washer from Autozone but had to grind it down to fit. If there's no washer, the lower shock yoke may be squeezed to fit tightly around the lower joint, that's bad.

6: Reinstall wheels and drop the car. Go drive and see if the noise is still apparent. If so, it's not the coilovers (unless they're damaged). I've put 10k miles on mine and they still perform the same as they did when new.

If there is still clunking: it could be a worn bushing, lose bolt, ovalized swaybar hole (a buddy with an A4 had an identical clunk and everything was tight. his swaybar bolt hole was ovalized somehow).

 

Ill give it a shot tomorrow and tell you what happens thanks for the info defanitley usefull.

 

Can Megan's be used with stock top mounts?

 

no you can not. unless you can find a spring that has the same diameter up top and tapers down to 2 or 2 1/2 in dia. for the bottom perches.

Tein has these options on their basic susupensions set-up.

 

Just thought id give a quick reply and thanks to Wheelhaus. I had a hollow sounding pop/clunk coming from my passenger side front coilover (megan streets). After trying Wheelhaus's suggestion and tightened the top hat nut the clicking went away during the next test drive and havent had it since.
Thanks!!

 

I still have a clunk somewhere in the rear end, I only hear it when the windows are up. This week or weekend I'm going to pull the rear shocks out and really dig into it.

Three things that helped clear some of my rear end rattles/clunks but didn't entirely resolve it:

1: Tighten the handbrake cable so it starts to engage after 1 or 2 clicks. My cable was rattling a little bit. This is very easy. Pull up the center console ( some screws and click tabs) and there's an 11mm? nut on the end of the cable. Tighten/loosen as needed to achieve desired cable tension.

2: Secure the washer fluid bottle. There's two bolts that hold it in place, and the third bolt on the bottom only holds a pin bracket. The bottle has a little stub pin that sticks into this bracket and it can wobble, making noise. I put 4 strips of vinyl tape over it and cross-slit each piece through the portion covering the hole. The pin still fit into the hole, but it was much more snug, thus eliminating the wobble.

3: Obviously make sure the spare tire, jack, and whatever else is back there is nice and secure and snug.

 

hey guys ,
my is coming torommow , i don't get where you guys say the top hat nut is ,,
any way for some pics so when it does happend i'll know what to do !!!
thanks alot!!!

 

When they arrive you'll see exactly what we're talking about. It's nothing to really be conerned about, it's a very easy job to snug the bolt even while they're installed.

 

Are these race or track coilovers? Does it matter or all they all the same Thanks!

 

Identical structural design. Most coilovers are made of similar fundamental designs, the biggest differences like in what materials are used and how the crucial internals are engineered. The big$$$ coilovers have much more advanced valving and damping control. The only difference between the Megan Street or Track set is the stiffer spring rates and most likely stiffer damping as well.